input gear wear

[chris06]

Just wondering if it is just me or if it is common that the input gear on Senton V3 wears rapidly.
Today, during my 2nd pack I heard a grinding noise so stopped and got home.
When I took the input gear out (13T) I noticed some teeth have gone but mostly we can clearly see that others may give way soon. Any idea what does that?
The teeth on the diff looks still in perfect shape...
BTW I use Facom Lithium grease (green colour when clean).
It is the 2nd one I replace in 6months with about 1h play every 2 weeks with my son (racing and small jumps on dirt and grass).
I have stopped using that car at 100% of its power and stick to 75% since each time I use 100% something breaks... mostly tires ending up in shred (but can glue it back together) but since I can't find insert foam got to buy a whole set...
Thanks for your views.

 

[Yas]

Loosen the slipper

 

[Camaroboy383]

Several factors can cause that..

Bearing yield
Improper slipper setting causing heat and melting the yoke's
Putting a new input gear on a old crown gear, always should be replaced as a set..
Inner input bearing not seated properly

 

[chris06]

Thanks for your inputs.

The diff case and input gear got changed together each time.
The bearings got cleaned and run nice and smooth.
However I don't see how they could be seated incorrectly since there is the shape of them in the yoke
The only thing I see is that I didn't tight the screws much since that didn't make the diff turn smoothly if I did...

 

[chris06]

I got a new input gear along with a new diff case (though the one in place looked good) on the way
Out of curiosity how many turns are you guys running the slipper from tight?
I didn't change mine from factory yet so I will try Yas suggestion. Just don't want to over do it to prevent overheating the slipper...

 

[Yas]

I got a new input gear along with a new diff case (though the one in place looked good) on the way
Out of curiosity how many turns are you guys running the slipper from tight?
I didn't change mine from factory yet so I will try Yas suggestion. Just don't want to over do it to prevent overheating the slipper...

Follow this video as a starting point, only don't use the thread lock as explained in the video, because the V3 slippers have a plastic lock nut. If you're willing to disassemble the slipper, you can use a dab of thread lock at around half the length of the screw, just not at the tip

I test the slipper by holding both rear tyres then I try to rotate the front tyres together. It should be hard but possible to do. If they're too hard to rotate, loosen the slipper a 1/4 turn each time

If it's too loose, you'll lose power and eventually overheat the pads and the surrounding areas. You'll also hear a loud high-pitched whining/squealing if it's slipping too much when on the throttle

 

[Finniusracer]

I have a few of these cars that my 2 sons race, they both have this issue to a degree. One so much that he lost place in a race this past summer on a brushed setup. I believe its due to the lack of ventilation in the pinion/spur case. Dirt gets in with no place to escape, then the pinion just starts to eat itself along with what ever else gets inside.