Kraton Introducing the Notorious Kraton 4s!! My Frankenstein of Arrma parts

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Custnam

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 4s
Been awhile since I posted, but not because I haven't been into RC. Pretty much by accident I came up with this idea. I was already using several 4X4 V3 parts on my Kraton 4s and literally kicked my old Notorious body I had under my bed by accident. Thats when I decided to use that body for my new creation. I am using parts from several different Arrma's. Ill list it all below. But its almost completely done. I only have to install a new servo saver, center brace, and body posts and it will be completely done. I also installed front and rear LED's onto the Notorious body to run at night and it works great. The lower location of the rear red LED's makes it very easy to see. Anyway pics and full list of whats been done below.

  • Notorious 6s body with LED's. All I had to do to install this was use some longer front body posts and ream out the existing holes a bit wider. Looks and works great.
  • Arrma Senton V3 4x4 Mega Updated Composite Chassis / Frame ARA320608
  • Arrma Senton V3 4X4 Mega Steering Bellcrank Assembly w/ Bearings and Servo Saver. I was able to use the new style bellcrank that now comes with sealed bearings, but not the servo saver since its made for the new 23t servo.
  • Arrma Senton V3 4X4 Mega F/R Composite Upper Gearbox Covers/Shock Tower AR320399. Although this is a new part number I haven't seen anything different.
  • Arrma Granite V3 Rear bumper ARA320605
  • T-Bone Racing front bumper TBR 10112
  • Hobbystar Motor Fan
  • Hot racing Shock bodies with Kraton 6s springs. (The stock springs were just too soft, so I tried using the 6s shock springs and they work and fit perfect).
  • Outcast 4s wheelie bar with Arrma 6s tires and wheels (Just tapped larger holes for the axles and these screwed right on, wheelies much more stable and smooth).
  • Outcast 4s rear wing. All I needed to get this to work was a few spacers and longer screws so it would sit high enough to slide the Notorious body in. I was able to also get the stock Kraton wing to work, but it just didnt look right.
  • Brand new Minokawa tires and wheels with writing painted white. A few of the pics show it with the older set on.
  • ARRMA 16T 0.8 Mod Safe-D5 Pinion Gear ARAC1531
  • Hot Racing Aluminum Adjustable Motor Mount ATF18M02
  • Hot Racing Aluminum Pivot Ball Set ATF160B02
  • ARRMA CVD Slider Set KRATON OUTCAST 4x4 BLX 4S ARAC3954 X 2
  • Flysky FS-GT5 Radio set, still my current all time favorite radio
  • RPM A-Arms front and rear
  • 25KG Servo DS3225
  • Fast Eddy sealed bearings throughout
  • New Arrma V3 Slipper clutch parts (Pads ARA310994), (Hub Set ARA310946), and (Slipper Clutch Maintenance Set ARA311033). All of these were direct fit although a bit different. The pads have shorter tabs, but doesn't affect much if anything. The hub set is also a bit different in that the inner spline part has more space to allow for room for the plastic nut included in the maintenance set that is suppose to be strong enough to hold the screw in place. The clutch maintenance set is pretty much the same, but comes with an all plastic nut that is suppose to hold the slipper screw from backing out. But to use this you would also need the new input gears that have the shorter spline to allow space for the plastic nut. These werent in stock (Part #ARA311031). But I wanted to see if this new way would actually hold the screw, so I did a bit of modding. I took one of the older input gears I had and cut the spline shorter so there would be room in the slipper hub for the plastic nut. This worked perfect as far as fitting all back together. But as expected the plastic nut just wasnt strong enough to hold the slipper screw in place. It would hold for a few minutes then start slipping a bit more than I like. So I just took it out, installed the original input gear, and then used some red loctite which has held up perfect. The whole slipper assembly has been great. No slipping, and the screw has held without having to use a ton of loctite, just a bit on the threads. haven't needed to glob a bunch on the screw end. We'll see how long that lasts, but so far so good.

    I think thats it. It runs perfect, the Notorious body looks awesome. Not much else to do. Although Ive said that before. Pics below.

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@Custnam

That looks awesome. Two questions if you don't mind. Is that hot glue where the wires for the lights are on the body? Also a newbie question, because I've seen a few threads of this coming loose. What is this and what does it do? It appears you zip tied it in place.

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@Custnam

That looks awesome. Two questions if you don't mind. Is that hot glue where the wires for the lights are on the body? Also a newbie question, because I've seen a few threads of this coming loose. What is this and what does it do? It appears you zip tied it in place.

View attachment 100418

Yes that is hot glue to hold all the LED wires in place. But I also super glued the hot glue after it dried because in the past the hot glue would come loose in certain places. And that is the ESC capacitors. I zip tied it like that so all of the pulling on the wires when you disconnect the batteries wouldnt damage the wires or connectors.
 
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