Is a universal battery plug good or bad on a LiPo?

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parcou

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So I am speaking from a newbie level....

I thought to my understanding that if possible try to change the battery connector on the RC to be a direct fit to the battery (IC3, IC5, EC3, EC5, Deans, T-connector, etc).

So this link here to which I believe Venom is a good battery market a battery with universal connectors which could be handy for some use cases on non-high power RCs. I have even seen Amain Hobbies add this option to the right on some RC cars as a purchase option. Battery
https://www.amazon.com/Venom-2000mAh-Battery-Universal-Traxxas/dp/B002AK38TS

In this example, I found this looking for lower mAh power (2000) at 2S for RCs that come Nickle batteries as standard (brushed motors) but an option to go no higher than 2S lipo if I change the dip selection. So if you reply compare that to lower level 2S universal connectors in comparison to doing that at 4S and above which I think would be a risk. But the focus is on this battery level and example.


As a side note: I am looking at these 2000mAh batteries... I have IC5 2S Spektrum 5000mah (7.4v) batteries... but it has too much run time for these smaller 1/10 on-road brushed motor cars. I want the 7.4v but I do not need it at 5000mah so I want less run time (2000mah) with full voltage. I don't know how to do that with my current batteries to get less run time like the 2000 but at full 7.4 voltage...

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I'm not sure exactly what you were trying to say, but I think for 2S LiPos a universal connector won't hurt anything. IMO it's still better to convert everything to a single plug which is fairly easy with some basic soldering skills.
 
I'm not sure exactly what you were trying to say, but I think for 2S LiPos a universal connector won't hurt anything. IMO it's still better to convert everything to a single plug which is fairly easy with some basic soldering skills.

Thx..

Yes, I did wrap a lot in that, sorry. One is that good or bad with the universal connectors when is talking about lower-powered brushed RCs....but to your answer, it aligns with what I heard.

Part 2 - I would like to use my own 2S 5000mah 7.4v lipo but just too much run time when I am done still so much battery power left almost 1/3 to 1/2 and sometimes voltage still above 3.8 when done. I like to run all the energy & voltage to 3.6 or so out my batteries but I can't with these cars on that battery. So with my limited knowledge, I do not think it is possible to take my battery charge at 2000mah but get max volts (like a 2S 2000mah battery)....else I would not be concerned about another battery.

Sorry about the confusion thx for input....
 
Thx..

Yes, I did wrap a lot in that, sorry. One is that good or bad with the universal connectors when is talking about lower-powered brushed RCs....but to your answer, it aligns with what I heard.

Part 2 - I would like to use my own 2S 5000mah 7.4v lipo but just too much run time when I am done still so much battery power left almost 1/3 to 1/2 and sometimes voltage still above 3.8 when done. I like to run all the energy & voltage to 3.6 or so out my batteries but I can't with these cars on that battery. So with my limited knowledge, I do not think it is possible to take my battery charge at 2000mah but get max volts (like a 2S 2000mah battery)....else I would not be concerned about another battery.

Sorry about the confusion thx for input....

Any additional connectors are bad generally because they add failure points and resistance to the circuit. It is less of an issue with brushed or lower-powered systems because the voltage and amp draw are so much lower. 7.2 or 7.4v with something like a deans and an adapter is not likely a problem, but get into a brushless system at 11.1v or 14.8v and a lot more amp draw and you risk heating and melting those smaller connectors or some of the less beefy connections between them.

For your part 2 above: Change the target volts on your charger. I have read enough about LiPo batteries to know that they last much longer if you don't push them to 100% very often. I normally charge to 4.15v instead of the normal 4.2v per cell. On my Hitech RDX1 Pro I set the Balance program target volts to 4.15. If you want less run time just lower your target volts to 4.1 or 4.0 until you get the runtime you want and can end just below balance voltage. That will be easier on the batteries and they will perform better and last longer. You want to end at or slightly below balance voltage. 3.7x or 3.80 is fine. Run a cheap voltage alarm and set it for 3.7 (or lower, they will alarm when the voltage drops under heavy load and then when you stop and check it's higher). I end up setting mine at 3.4 or 3.5 and they alarm under load and then are usually 3.7ish when I check with no load. That is why companies like HRB and others will tell you not to run them below 3.7 or 3.5, because under load you may be pulling a cell under 3 volts and damaging it.

TL:DR Set your charger to balance charge at a lower target voltage to get the run time you want. Run cheap voltage alarms on the balance leads of your LiPos as you run them and find an alarm point that lets you end at around 3.7x volts at rest so you can storage charge them easily after you are done.
 
On part 2, perfectly OK to stop at 3.9 and stop running to match the runtime. Don't even charge and run it down to 3.6 on the second run.
No need to get too detailed on proper storage level. I wouldn't let it sit for more than 2 weeks at that higher storage level but it won't hurt anything in a meaningful lifespan of a lipo. This is an exponential function and that curve kicks up above 4V I. e.long term damage.
 
On part 2, perfectly OK to stop at 3.9 and stop running to match the runtime. Don't even charge and run it down to 3.6 on the second run.
No need to get too detailed on proper storage level. I wouldn't let it sit for more than 2 weeks at that higher storage level but it won't hurt anything in a meaningful lifespan of a lipo. This is an exponential function and that curve kicks up above 4V I. e.long term damage.

If you got to 3.90 it will drift down slowly anyway into the 3.8x. But given how LiPo batteries work it is better on the batteries not to charge them all the way to 4.2. 4.1v would probably work well.
 
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