Is ARRMA Clear Shell Stronger Than Stock Shell?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Messages
57
Reaction score
85
Location
Richfield, WI
Arrma RC's
  1. Typhon 3s
Is the clear shell available for ARRMA vehicles made of a stronger plastic than the shell that comes with the vehicle?

A million years ago when I was a kid, I remember having a clear body for a Team Associated RC-10 and the plastic was so strong it could've survived a nuclear bomb (I *think* it was Lexan plastic?). If the ARRMA clear shells are that strong, I'll buy one, but if they're just flimsy clear versions of what comes on the car, I'll probably pass.

https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR402270

VAMK8MM3E8UVQBUHE2U9CRGEHZJ69YU8YXCGDJ9XZU6X46PT2C.jpg
 
Is the clear shell available for ARRMA vehicles made of a stronger plastic than the shell that comes with the vehicle?

A million years ago when I was a kid, I remember having a clear body for a Team Associated RC-10 and the plastic was so strong it could've survived a nuclear bomb (I *think* it was Lexan plastic?). If the ARRMA clear shells are that strong, I'll buy one, but if they're just flimsy clear versions of what comes on the car, I'll probably pass.

https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/AR402270

VAMK8MM3E8UVQBUHE2U9CRGEHZJ69YU8YXCGDJ9XZU6X46PT2C.jpg
Everyone I’ve had was the same as the stock bodies in thickness.
 
Fiber tape and shoe goo.
I just did the tape + Shoe Goo thing to my new Typhon shell tonight. As those of you who have done this already know, working with Shoe Goo is like working with fast drying honey. I've got to wonder if a clear weather strip adhesive would yield the same end result but be easier to work with as it's not quit as sticky initially.
 
Recently put a Pro-line Ford F-100 body on my Granite, it's gotten trashed quickly. The Arrma Granite body was much more durable. I reinforced both with drywall tape and shoe goo. With hard bashing the Granite body eventually gave out after months but the Pro-line body started cracking after one run. I just got the new Granite body. I haven't run it yet, but it's definitely made of thicker plastic and feels like it will hold up better than the Pro-line F-100 body.
 
I made a post on here somewhere about this exact thing... I'm sure they are the same thickness, but I find that the pre-painted Arrma bodies are tougher than clear for some reason..?
I think if your just gonna use a Typhon body you'll be good either way as it's a smaller body..
 
I made a post on here somewhere about this exact thing... I'm sure they are the same thickness, but I find that the pre-painted Arrma bodies are tougher than clear for some reason..?
That's interesting. I've been debating buying the green shell from the Typhon Mega or painting my own as I prefer green over red. Perhaps I'll just go the Mega shell route.

TIP: If you go the fiber tape and Shoe Goo route, be sure to not let any of the fiber tape hang-off the edges of the shell before applying the Shoe Goo. Trimming the excess fiber tape off afterwards is extremely hard to do :( Doh!

PXL_20201022_120347884.MP.jpg


Messy edges aside, now that the Shoe Goo has dried, I can see why people go this route. The shell is noticeably stiffer and tougher feeling.

PXL_20201022_120359438.MP.jpg
 
Yesterday I reinforced the body with drywall tape and rubber seal. For now I used 2 layers of rubber seal. See my build thread how it looks.
It's curing now as it needs at least 24hours (although between layers you only need to wait 10 minutes). The weight shown in the pic was just after application of the two layers. After a few hours it was a already a bit lighter. Today after work I will weigh it again and it should be completely dried.
The body feels more solid will keeping flexibility.
 
After finally getting a chance to run my new Typhon, it's become apparent to me that one big difference between a buggy and a truck/truggy which I used to own is that the shell doesn't get beat-up. The shell doesn't touch the ground at all because the shock towers and rear spoiler hit the ground first... and believe-you-me, after yesterdays bash session, I would've seen damage to the shell if there was to be any. :oops: So all the work I did in reinforcing my stock shell (Shoe Goo + drywall tape) was kind of a waste of time.
 
Yesterday I reinforced the body with drywall tape and rubber seal. For now I used 2 layers of rubber seal. See my build thread how it looks.
It's curing now as it needs at least 24hours (although between layers you only need to wait 10 minutes). The weight shown in the pic was just after application of the two layers. After a few hours it was a already a bit lighter. Today after work I will weigh it again and it should be completely dried.
The body feels more solid will keeping flexibility.

When you say rubber seal do you mean actual Flex Seal or something else? I was going to try the Shoe Goo and drywall tape on my boy's RC (small body), but I'd like to try this to see how it goes.
 
When you say rubber seal do you mean actual Flex Seal or something else? I was going to try the Shoe Goo and drywall tape on my boy's RC (small body), but I'd like to try this to see how it goes.
Not sure what’s it called in other countries but it is used for sealing roof, gutter etc.
After application it’s 100% waterproof and has 750% flexibility.
It’s still drying; already lost 10% of the weight compared to yesterday and is still very slowly losing weight.
5ECB3B8E-CF1B-4B2E-8D42-00DBADE043C2.png
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top