Is it me ? Diff questions

[PshmokN’EM887]

I had to take apart rear differential on my new kraton exb first time doing it to a kraton first kraton I ever own period so is there a gasket because the one in the video had one but it was av4 kraton so does it bring a gasket or no also what weight oil is good for 6s thanks mine didn’t have one and the it was empty!!

 

[Engineer]

Double check the crown gear because often the gasket gets stuck on there and sometimes it's hard to see until you scrape at it with a knife to lift it off.

Stock oil weight is 10K so start with that.

 

[Senton_Prime]

Double check the crown gear because often the gasket gets stuck on there and sometimes it's hard to see until you scrape at it with a knife to lift it off.

Stock oil weight is 10K so start with that.

+1 thats where mine was at!!
I also choose to see how 10:100:10 performs so i toped them to factory spec!

 

[mxfan69]

+3 on the gasket hiding on the crown gear side. I took the advice of some here and am running 10/500/30 in my wifes exb kraton on 6s and it handles very very nicely. Had the LHS guru that races every weekend give me a quick tutorial on why to have heavier on the front than the rear and why to nearly lock the center. Made sense for better handling and like I say, the wifes on 10/500/30 is great and I plan to do the same on my exb whenever I get to building it.

 

[PshmokN’EM887]

+3 on the gasket hiding on the crown gear side. I took the advice of some here and am running 10/500/30 in my wifes exb kraton on 6s and it handles very very nicely. Had the LHS guru that races every weekend give me a quick tutorial on why to have heavier on the front than the rear and why to nearly lock the center. Made sense for better handling and like I say, the wifes on 10/500/30 is great and I plan to do the same on my exb whenever I get to building it.

So 30/100/10?

+1 thats where mine was at!!
I also choose to see how 10:100:10 performs so i toped them to factory spec!

View attachment 188717

I must of lost it because I don’t see it

+1 thats where mine was at!!
I also choose to see how 10:100:10 performs so i toped them to factory spec!

View attachment 188717

Oh it’s clear in the pic it’s on there right ? Mine looks the same .

 

[Senton_Prime]

Yea its there if u didnt move the planetary gear!!

 

[PshmokN’EM887]

Yea its there if u didnt move the planetary gear!!

Lol good do j have to move since it’s new I’m just replacing broken out drive cup .

 

[morrjr71]

I've read all the posts about the diffs being low on fluid, so this past week I performed diff maintenance on my Kraton 6s RTR with no more than two hours of run time on it. I completely rebuilt the center diff using the Arrma aluminum and steel diff case filled with 300,000 diff fluid. I drained out the 10,000 fluid in the half-full front diff and filled it with 20,000. There was only enough fluid to cover the planetary gear in the rear diff, so I filled it to the proper level with 10,000. I might redo the front and rear fluids in the spring when the weather gets warmer and the diff fluid flows better.

 

[PshmokN’EM887]

I've read all the posts about the diffs being low on fluid, so this past week I performed diff maintenance on my Kraton 6s RTR with no more than two hours of run time on it. I completely rebuilt the center diff using the Arrma aluminum and steel diff case filled with 300,000 diff fluid. I drained out the 10,000 fluid in the half-full front diff and filled it with 20,000. There was only enough fluid to cover the planetary gear in the rear diff, so I filled it to the proper level with 10,000. I might redo the front and rear fluids in the spring when the weather gets warmer and the diff fluid flows better.

Let me ask you this for my kraton I was going to do 20 front 100 center 60 rear differential should the rear have the heavier oil than the front?

 

[morrjr71]

Let me ask you this for my kraton I was going to do 20 front 100 center 60 rear differential should the rear have the heavier oil than the front?

From what I've read here on the forum and elsewhere, the front should be twice as thick as the rear, or close to it. Do a search for "diff fluid" and you will find a lot of suggestions. The center is recommended to be 500 or greater, but I chose 300 as a starting point. As I said in my original answer, I will likely be tweaking the diff fluid come spring.

 

[mxfan69]

NO, unless you want it acting like a locked spool type rear which will turn like shat

 

[mxfan69]

From my LHS guy, the reason to have the rear use lighter fluid than the front allows 2 primary affects.

**Light fluid in the rear allows the car to turn corners easier without the inside wheel fighting the outside wheel. This allows the car to be easier to drive. Still though, some folks like a true locked up handling rear end, and either put a locker spool in or heavy heavy fluid or silicone ear plugs.

**Heavier fluid in the front than the rear allows the rear to turn easier under power and also while the front is unloaded or even in the air its not spinning as fast IE-not wasting power.

 

[Mr.Duke]

I run 30k front 1M center 60k rear on my Talion and it handles and turns better that anything else in the entire fleet, due in part to the fact that there’s heavier viscosity in the rear than the front. There’s no locked spool effect in play for 60k rear on a car weighing over 9lbs

No offense to anyone in this hobby but It blows my mind at the amount of “monkey see / monkey do” without question, on certain tuning aspects that many consider settled theory for no apparent reason at all. Running double the viscosity on the front diff vs rear is one of them, I just usually keep it to myself to keep from rocking the boat.

Experiment and Run whatever setup you like but don’t be afraid to run 60k in the rear and lighter up front for better/tighter on throttle and all round turning/handling. It was night and day difference for my particular setup.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/the-talion-is-best-handling-arrma.35230/

 

[morrjr71]

I run 30k front 1M center 60k rear on my Talion and it handles and turns better that anything else in the entire fleet, due in part to the fact that there’s heavier viscosity in the rear than the front. There’s no locked spool effect in play for 60k rear on a car weighing over 9lbs

No offense to anyone in this hobby but It blows my mind at the amount of “monkey see / monkey do” without question, on certain tuning aspects that many consider settled theory for no apparent reason at all. Running double the viscosity on the front diff vs rear is one of them, I just usually keep it to myself to keep from rocking the boat.

Experiment and Run whatever setup you like but don’t be afraid to run 60k in the rear and lighter up front for better/tighter on throttle and all round turning/handling. It was night and day difference for my particular setup.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/the-talion-is-best-handling-arrma.35230/

No offense, but a Talion and a Kraton are different vehicles, and what works in your Talion may be different from what works in a Kraton. And while some might adhere to the "monkey see, monkey do" approach, I research everything from multiple sources, and not just blindly follow what I read on a single forum.

 

[Adiabatic]

No offense to anyone in this hobby but It blows my mind at the amount of “monkey see / monkey do” without question, on certain tuning aspects that many consider settled theory for no apparent reason at all.

Yeah, I have been fighting this since I got into the hobby, and it's similar in other hobbies (and many facets of life in general).

Personally, I think most of the recommended diff oil setups I read on here are way too heavy for normal driving and are primarily geared at people who want to maximise power delivery to the ground and control tire ballooning while doing all-out WOT bashing. The 60/300/30 or so setup people here seem to favour is about 10x a typical truggy/buggy track setup which would be something like 7/30/3. The stock 10/100/10 oils are much closer to how I used to configure a truggy for bashing to increase rear power delivery and on-power steering on loose surfaces while maintaining controlled acceleration with few unintentional wheelies and a reasonable degree of off-power steering.

Lighter oil in the rear will tend to increase off-power steering, heavier on-power steering, so it really depends on whether you like to drift into corners and have a looser rear end in general or ease into corners with more traction and less rear wheel spin. Very subjective matter and heavily dependent on driving style. IMO one should start with the stock/manufacturer recommend setup, note how it drives and what one would like to change to suit how one drives, then make incremental changes in the direction one wants to go rather than simply copy the configuration others claim works for them.

 

[Monster Dork]

It's tough to tell what other people's idea of good handling is. For some, it's more fun to be fully locked up and sliding everywhere. For me, it's about holding the line I choose as fast as possible. When you ride in a group it becomes painful to watch as some people who think their sus is dialed can't keep up with cars that handle. The hobby is about whatever floats your boat, but when I talk about shocks, suspension, and diffs, I'm talking about optimum speed and handling, not spinning out at every corner. So my LSD equipped KEXB runs well on 25k(more effect)/150k(more effect)/15k(less effect), with the caveat that the front is a touch on the firm side (20K would be better) and the center is too stiff to be ideal for speed (too easy to wheelie for speed, but better for bashing), but I like wheelies and you need that extra rearward bias to kick off jumps. I've run 100k and 150k center, 5k, 10k, 12.5k, and 15k in the rear, and 15k, 20k, 25k, and 30k in the front. On LSDs, that is the range you should be in. Terrain, traction, and tires are the main difference between the weights, but anywhere in there is good.