Limitless Is it worthwhile to upgrade to a V2 Limitless from V1

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dk10438

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Arrma RC's
  1. Limitless
As the title suggests, I debating on whether or not I should sell my V1 and buy a V2

Here is the current build
Futaba 334SBS
Futaba GYC441
Futaba BLS177 servo
Futaba temp sensor
MMX8S with Castle Telemetry
CC 1717-1650
Currently running 32/34
6s CHNL 90c

Here are the assumptions
Do not plan on going greater than 130 MPH, likely 115-120 MPH will be the ceiling given the lack of space
Do not plan on changing out electronics (ie no plans for an XL2S)

I'm thinking a V1 roller would fetch $250-300?? So the delta would be approximately $170. So I'm thinkin for $170 I'm getting
GP5 F/R diffs
wider rear stance (not sure how important that is)
smaller battery trays (my zees would fit but CHNL won't...)
Better motor mount.
And of course, everything would be new....

Is it worth it since my target is south of 130 MPH?
 
I don't think you need to do it imo. It's fun to get a new rig and build it though so I'd be tempted for that reason alone. I already had a v1 limitless and I bought a v2 just because. Ended up cutting off the very end of the battery trays to gain a little more space.

Those gp5 diffs would probably be more important if you were planning on going faster but you can make it work without them.
 
I agree with @Moirae. Jamie Morrison hit 153mph with his 1717 powered V1 and the 3.3 diffs so, I don't really see the point. Spend the money on your drivetrain instead. CF or Ti center shafts, a better spool, drive cups, dog bones/CVDs. Stuff like that. Your money will be better spent there.
 
thanks for the replies.

At what speed to the stock parts begin to fail? I was thinking that they're probably good up to 130mph?
 
thanks for the replies.

At what speed to the stock parts begin to fail? I was thinking that they're probably good up to 130mph?
I would think so too. Just do regular maintenance and keep an eye open for stuff that's wearing out and replace as necessary and you should be fine.
 
thanks for the replies.

At what speed to the stock parts begin to fail? I was thinking that they're probably good up to 130mph?
Personally I would at least change out the center drive shafts, input cups, and spool. The stock center drivetrain flops around and vibrates like crazy, so even at 130 it’s going to eat up input bearings and possibly more.
 
Thanks!
Scorched or PP taking into consideration cost as well?
I love my PP shafts, but they do cost twice the money of Scorched Ti shafts. I have a set of IHN Ti shafts and they feel great. I haven't used them yet, but they look identical to the Scorched shafts. Either would be a marked improvement over the stock shafts. If you do wind up getting the Scorched shafts, make sure to pick up a pair of the 5mm input cups while you're there to replace the sub par stock cups on the input side of your diffs. If you're looking for a top notch spool, pick up one of the Joe Diaz spools from IHN.
https://www.islandhobbynut.com/prod...ium-spool-kit-fits-all-arrma-1-8-scale-models
 
I love my PP shafts, but they do cost twice the money of Scorched Ti shafts. I have a set of IHN Ti shafts and they feel great. I haven't used them yet, but they look identical to the Scorched shafts. Either would be a marked improvement over the stock shafts. If you do wind up getting the Scorched shafts, make sure to pick up a pair of the 5mm input cups while you're there to replace the sub par stock cups on the input side of your diffs. If you're looking for a top notch spool, pick up one of the Joe Diaz spools from IHN.
https://www.islandhobbynut.com/prod...ium-spool-kit-fits-all-arrma-1-8-scale-models
Another great thing about the Joe Diaz spool is you don’t need to worry about the stupid spool spacers. The shaft has shoulders machined in for the bearings and you can just slide your spur to wherever you want.
 
what are you guys using for the front and rear brace? GPM? will that work with a 1 cm driveshaft??
 
what are you guys using for the front and rear brace? GPM? will that work with a 1 cm driveshaft??
I'm running the Scorched CF GTC chassis and CF top brace. To be fair though, the chassis is so stiff I don't really think that a brace is strictly necessary. If you need to run braces I'd probably just run the stock ones and just Dremel them out a bit as needed.
 
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