Senton Is this good enough mesh?

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Arrma RC's
  1. Senton 3s
I've been trying for an hour.
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You can not check mesh without the other half of the module in place... The picture can't tell you anything unfortunately..
 
You can not check mesh without the other half of the module in place... The picture can't tell you anything unfortunately..
+1

I normally put the module and spin the spur, if it spins really easy then it’s to loose or if you hard to spin is to tight.
Not the best method but it’s they way I do it
 
+1

I normally put the module and spin the spur, if it spins really easy then it’s to loose or if you hard to spin is to tight.
Not the best method but it’s they way I do it


Yeah, you can surely get close with it open.. but once done, it should be assembled and checked for tick all the way around..

It drives me slightly crazy every time I see a video of mesh final set with the module open.. nothing to hold the slipper assembly on axis, they wobble around in all kinds of directions when open and supported by only one bearing like that...

If you can hold the slipper assembly true to the bearing face with pressure you can nail it the first time, but it should always be checked assembled, no matter how sure you are..

The motor screws can be tightened just enough to hold it still, but able to move with a little persuasion, assemble the module, (doesn't even need screws) check mesh tick, manipulate the motor to the proper tick, pull case half and tighten the screws down.. reassemble with screws and check one final time..
 
Yeah, you can surely get close with it open.. but once done, it should be assembled and checked for tick all the way around..

It drives me slightly crazy every time I see a video of mesh final set with the module open.. nothing to hold the slipper assembly on axis, they wobble around in all kinds of directions when open and supported by only one bearing like that...

If you can hold the slipper assembly true to the bearing face with pressure you can nail it the first time, but it should always be checked assembled, no matter how sure you are..

The motor screws can be tightened just enough to hold it still, but able to move with a little persuasion, assemble the module, (doesn't even need screws) check mesh tick, manipulate the motor to the proper tick, pull case half and tighten the screws down.. reassemble with screws and check one final time..
Maybe @3d-rc.myshopify.com or other 3D printer guys on the forum could make a half housing so you see the mesh and set it with the slipper in the correct position.
 
For the mesh on the 3s modules make sure you put the plastic housing back on when checking it as well. The spur gear has a little bit of play back and forth. I make sure the spur gear is pushed in from the driveshaft side if that makes sense and then check the mesh.
 
Maybe @3d-rc.myshopify.com or other 3D printer guys on the forum could make a half housing so you see the mesh and set it with the slipper in the correct position.


If you wanted to go that far so you could see it you could always get a module housing and cut a window in it... 👍.. in the end it comes down to feel and sound, not so much visual, but it surely wouldn't hurt to see what's going on...

As a designer/maker myself, I wouldn't spend the time to design it in cad for the little money one cost from arrma, and the few minutes to cut a window in it..
Doesn’t look bad, are those the same pitch gear?

I believe what you are seeing in pitch difference is the use on the pinion..👍.. as you know the teeth will eventually turn to razor blades..
 
I needed to fix the bent motor mount on my grandsons Granite. The new one came with a new housing too. I machined out the old one to help with this issue of visual gear mesh. Worked fine, so far so good. I also bring it when we go bashing so others can use too if needed.
 
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