Is this stuff any good?

[Bigrayzrc]

I saw this the other day and wonderd if it was good use on rc cars?

 

[slick2500]

If you are wanting to repair broken plastic parts no. It's too rigid and will just break again. Unfortunately when it comes to the plastic parts on these vehicles once it's broken it's pretty much junk.

 

[Diem Turner]

While I haven't used their plastic weld, I've used their steel reinforced epoxy and it's fantastic so, I'd think that this should also work well. I guess it would depend on what you plan to use it for. I've used this stuff in combination with a thin piece of carbon fiber to glue a sun gear that broke in half inside my diff and it held without issue until the repair part arrived. Granted, I didn't subject it to drag launches but for normal use, it held without issue. Quality stuff.

 

[CrashBoom]

What are you going to use it for?

 

[Bigrayzrc]

What are you going to use it for?

Nothing atm but I was maby thinking something like the wing mount on a kraton or something.

 

[dure16]

Nothing atm but I was maby thinking something like the wing mount on a kraton or something.

I think the repaired part would be far weaker than the original part, unfortunately.

 

[CrashBoom]

Nothing atm but I was maby thinking something like the wing mount on a kraton or something.

I would generally not recommend using it to permanently mount parts if there is a "factory" way to attach something. You also have to make sure it works with the specific type of plastic you are bonding.

 

[Diem Turner]

Nothing atm but I was maby thinking something like the wing mount on a kraton or something.

I wouldn't use this type of glue for a repair such as that. The only type of glue I'd use for something that are the kind that actually melt the surface of the plastic via a solvent so that when you press the parts together they get "welded" together and as such become one piece again. Anything else and I would expect the part to just break again every time along the seam. What type of solvent is needed would depend on the type of plastic that you're trying to repair. Solvent glues for ABS or PVC are commonly available. So, long story short, find out what type of plastic it is and then figure out which solvent is applicable (if any). The last question then would be whether the glue and effort would actually save you any money over just buying a new part.

 

[gotnitro]

I saw this the other day and wonderd if it was good use on rc cars? View attachment 259464

It works incredible on nitro engines. I had a rod sail through the side of the block, took some of that and spackled it back up. That and a new rod and wrist pin of course. Piston and skirt were fine Ran great again.

 

[djrahbee]

I saw this the other day and wonderd if it was good use on rc cars? View attachment 259464

Quality product! I used it a lot when I used to paint cars for a living. Depends on what application you use it for.

 

[Moonstonemike]

I've used the original jb weld also. I used it to repair a cracked granite chassis. I used rough sand paper on both sides to give it something to adhere too. It's held up for the last year without any chipping off or further cracks.

 

[Diem Turner]

I've used the original jb weld also. I used it to repair a cracked granite chassis. I used rough sand paper on both sides to give it something to adhere too. It's held up for the last year without any chipping off or further cracks.
View attachment 259474

The original JB Weld is fantastic stuff. As I said in my previous post, I broke one of the sun gears in my diff in half. I made a disc from 0.2mm CF and glued it to the back of the gear halves using JB Weld and, much to my amazement, it did the job for several days until the parts arrived.

 

[gotnitro]

The original JB Weld is fantastic stuff. As I said in my previous post, I broke one of the sun gears in my diff in half. I made a disc from 0.2mm CF and glued it to the back of the gear halves using JB Weld and, much to my amazement, it did the job for several days until the parts arrived.
View attachment 259477

That’s some German engineering right there

 

[Diem Turner]

That’s some German engineering right there

lol...If it isn't painfully obvious already, I'm more of a Jerry rigger than an engineer. It was more of an experiment than anything else as I was pretty much all but certain that it would fail under the forces applied in the diff. But that sliver of CF gave it enough surface to bond it all together while having enough material strength to withstand the (what I think are) sheering forces that were applied to it. If you're ever in a pinch, give this a go.

 

[Tex Koder]

I'd use that good stuff to "weld" an addition to my chassis...

 

[King blitz]

I saw this the other day and wonderd if it was good use on rc cars? View attachment 259464

Jb weld is a pretty good product.so I say yes.

 

[King blitz]

I saw this the other day and wonderd if it was good use on rc cars? View attachment 259464

Jb weld is a pretty good product.so I say yes.i have not read above other replays so not sure if this has been mentioned so I'm just speaking from experience.the plastic jb weld is only as good . (durability wise) as how you prep your plastic..meaning how you get it ready before you apply the product..there are prep instructions on the back .you have to clean the plastic first very good.make sure there is no oil or any residue from anything on that plastic.id use isopropyl alcohol. Then sand the area to scuff it up a little so the 2 part mixture can get a good byte .after sanding clean it again .then your ready to apply.in our shop we heat the plastic a slight bit carful not to melt.don't go crazy .just warm it up.it activates the hardener and adheres better .works on cold surfaces but I seem to like it better warm.most important is the prep.if it's not done your job either won't last long or just won't work especially if placed over oil.hope this helps.jb weld on steel is great also when you can't use real weld..I've used it on repairing small holes and cracks on mufflers..oh another quick tip.any gap more than 1/4" deep should be done in layers.fill it let it set then dry then repeat.when it's applied to thick it takes to long to cure.so doing it in small amounts works best and strengthens it more.good luck and if someone else has already mentioned these steps I apologize.just trying to help a fellow arrma family member
If you have to use it again after it is fully cured which I believe is 24 hours you'll have to scuff up that first initial application then you can put more over it.

 

[Dan B.]

It works incredible on nitro engines. I had a rod sail through the side of the block, took some of that and spackled it back up. That and a new rod and wrist pin of course. Piston and skirt were fine Ran great again.

I crashed a KZ 750 years ago and bent the shift rod and cracked a 4 inch chunk out of the bottom left corner of the case. I found the chunk of broken cast aluminum spinning around on the bent shift shaft. I pulled the motor, degreased and cleaned the damaged area and “glued” it back together with JB Weld while building up the area in the process. After it hardened I drilled the hole for the shaft and machined out the area for the oil seal. That was over 25 years ago and the fix held and didn’t even weep oil! I haven’t ridden that bike in a freaking decade, but it’s still in my barn in running condition and it doesn’t have a puddle underneath it. That experience sold me hook, line and sinker on JB Weld.

 

[dure16]

I'd use that good stuff to "weld" an addition to my chassis...

View attachment 259528

That printer bed looks enormous. What are you rocking?

 

[Diem Turner]

I crashed a KZ 750 years ago and bent the shift rod and cracked a 4 inch chunk out of the bottom left corner of the case. I found the chunk of broken cast aluminum spinning around on the bent shift shaft. I pulled the motor, degreased and cleaned the damaged area and “glued” it back together with JB Weld while building up the area in the process. After it hardened I drilled the hole for the shaft and machined out the area for the oil seal. That was over 25 years ago and the fix held and didn’t even weep oil! I haven’t ridden that bike in a freaking decade, but it’s still in my barn in running condition and it doesn’t have a puddle underneath it. That experience sold me hook, line and sinker on JB Weld.

Damn, now that's crazy impressive man. I'd heard that it was great for muffler repairs and stuff like that. Would never have thought "glue" could work for something like that. Top notch.