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Ok thanks. For general jumping and running on rough ground would you still recommend useing lighter oil in the rear diff? I'm only ask for fear of stripping the rear input gear because of lighter oil? Appreciate all the help.I have 100/500/30k F/C/R. You won't want 100k in the rear. When you're on the throttle you'll hardly be able to steer. 100k in the front allows you to turn very directly when off
The input gear won't be affected by the rear diff oil. The centre diff oil will though, as thicker diff oil in the centre will distribute the power more towards the rearOk thanks. For general jumping and running on rough ground would you still recommend useing lighter oil in the rear diff? I'm only ask for fear of stripping the rear input gear because of lighter oil? Appreciate all the help.
So if I'm understanding correctly what you've said about useing 100/500/100 ( that's all I could get my hands on) is that with the heavier oil I will be actually creating more possible failure to that input gear because I'm actually giving it too much power? Versus letting the tires slip a little and giving power to the tires that need it? Hope that makes sense..lol thanks againThe input gear won't be affected by the rear diff oil. The centre diff oil will though, as thicker diff oil in the centre will distribute the power more towards the rear
As long as you're easy on the throttle and not landing on under power it should be fine regardless. You'll want make sure you get the best mesh possible by using 13x16 shims on the at the ring gear bearings too
So if I'm understanding correctly what you've said about useing 100/500/100 ( that's all I could get my hands on) is that with the heavier oil I will be actually creating more possible failure to that input gear because I'm actually giving it too much power? Versus letting the tires slip a little and giving power to the tires that need it? Hope that makes sense..lol thanks again
That makes total sense. If the housing flexs then thsts when I'm stripping gears. So the obvious remedy for that is to upgrade the diff housing. Also sounds like I need to be more conscious of throttle input as well. Appreciate it.The main issue with 100k in the rear is that it will not want to turn under power. I don’t think it will make much difference to the input hear, the power applied there is coming from the center diff. It’s doing things like landing a jump on-throttle or on dull brake that will be a bigger issue. Most of the rear diff issues I have seen have more to do with the diff case cover flexing and allowing the diff to shift and strip the ring and pinion.
That makes total sense. If the housing flexs then thsts when I'm stripping gears. So the obvious remedy for that is to upgrade the diff housing. Also sounds like I need to be more conscious of throttle input as well. Appreciate it.
Ok. So just the face of the diff house I need to replace not the whole housing. Wow, never realized that part was under so much stress.I heard very good advice from others on here - you don’t need the full aluminum housing, just the cover. I have ordered the Hot Racing diff housing covers. Much less expensive and I think will solve the problem.
Ok. So just the face of the diff house I need to replace not the whole housing. Wow, never realized that part was under so much stress.
I never realized the forces at play. Great explanation makes sense that "energy" needs to be transfered somewhere. These trucks are amazeingIf you put bathe diff in and then try to hold it in by the bearings with your fingers and then roll the truck you will feel it move back against you. These powerful motors generate a lot of force through that ring and pinion, and some of it is directed out away from the pinion trying to push the ring (diff)
If you put bathe diff in and then try to hold it in by the bearings with your fingers and then roll the truck you will feel it move back against you. These powerful motors generate a lot of force through that ring and pinion, and some of it is directed out away from the pinion trying to push the ring (diff) away from it.If you put bathe diff in and then try to hold it in by the bearings with your fingers and then roll the truck you will feel it move back against you. These powerful motors generate a lot
Took it out for a proper run. Normal place was busy so an open field for speed runs was what I did. Ran almost a full battery pack before leaving. It’s running great again. What a difference the thicker diff oil made. Handles a lot differently. Thank you all again.
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100k is too heavy for the rear..... I like 60kFr-200-500k Center -30k rear. Too heavy in the rear will make the rig lose steering under throttle. IMHO.So if I'm understanding correctly what you've said about useing 100/500/100 ( that's all I could get my hands on) is that with the heavier oil I will be actually creating more possible failure to that input gear because I'm actually giving it too much power? Versus letting the tires slip a little and giving power to the tires that need it? Hope that makes sense..lol thanks again
I have to agree with @Yas.@SrC how a noto guna steer anyways under power. The front tires are in the air. I only had 500k and 10k i put 500 in center and mixed 10 and 500 together but thicker in front i would guess iv got 275 front 225 or 200 rear. 20 kgservo and turns fine on dirt,gravel. I don't run in grass too much traction. As long as the tires are on ground steers fine for me. All has to do with preference and conditions you drive in.
I am admitting defeat with this shimming issue. I got it working perfect with a factory bulkhead. After buying a hot racing bulkhead I cannot get this thing to shim correctly. I have literally tried 40 different ways of shimming. I am willing to bet I have damaged the crown here or the pinion gear just by trying different ways. I am done put a fork in me.
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