Notorious Issues with diffs possibly. Video in thread

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Reckon I should have gone that route. The diff itself seems fine but the $54 bulkhead price sucks. Time to hit up eBay and look for the EXB parts.
 
Can I use the entire part below? Bulkhead and everything from the kraton 6s EXB?

C8A4CE39-3620-4C03-8FEF-436A6F408B2C.png
 
don't hold me to it but will bolt right up. Had no diff probs since iv shimmed all in/out diffs.Iv ran about 15 packs thru it. Some throttle on cartwheels to keep it on its wheels. 10ft sends but im carefull on throttle/brake on landings. I did break a rear hinge pin bracket but im still running it for now. 🤘
 
I actually just bought two complete diffs with bulks on eBay. I’ve bought from this guy before. From lumidave35. $100 shipped for both didn’t seem to bad when a new bulk, pinion gear and spur gear for diff housing would have been half that.

30777504-2F06-4C4D-9283-28A94A9BEBCB.jpeg
 
Well apparently I am just idiot or something. Got the new complete diffs in. Shimmed them. Still making the clicking the noise. Does it with acceleration and breaking.

I’m so lost and frustrated it’s not even funny. Literally never had such trouble with something my life. Could it be the center diff? I have no shimmed it. Front is shimmed.
 
dadlifex3 said:
Well apparently I am just idiot or something. Got the new complete diffs in. Shimmed them. Still making the clicking the noise. Does it with acceleration and breaking.

I’m so lost and frustrated it’s not even funny. Literally never had such trouble with something my life. Could it be the center diff? I have no shimmed it. Front is shimmed.
Click to expand...
Check your motor and check if the end cap is loose. Mine made a clicking sound, tore all three diffs down with new gears and oil, still clicked. whent to go take the motor / center diff assembly out and noticed my end cap screws were loose. Removed them added new locktite bolted everything back up and clicking was gone.
 
FatCatRC said:
Check your motor and check if the end cap is loose. Mine made a clicking sound, tore all three diffs down with new gears and oil, still clicked. whent to go take the motor / center diff assembly out and noticed my end cap screws were loose. Removed them added new locktite bolted everything back up and clicking was gone.
Click to expand...
Checked and all of that is good. Thanks for the suggestion though.
 
Christ alive!! I can't believe you've still got problems with this car and how frustrated you must be 😬😬😬 I wish I could help but I'd need the car in front of me. Could you take another video of the clicking? Try to have the camera follow the car as close as possible while it clicks. We will get there 🥵
 
I agree @Yas. I’m usually pretty mechanically inclined.

So I’m looking at the chassis after reading another thread from last year. The rear portion of the chassis is flat and doesn’t bend upwards. Could that really cause an issue with a diff? Could this be the issue I’m having?

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So none of the rear potions are bent like they’re saying? Mine does have a slight downward (towards the ground) bend to it.

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So mine is definitely not straight
 

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L3phturn said:
If it were me, you know what I'd do? I would charge up a full 6S and bash the poop out of it until it either stopped making noise or blew apart completely so I could figure out what's wrong!
Click to expand...
No kidding. That’s exactly what I was thinking. But I removed the rear diff and the pinion looks fine. The teeth on the crown gears teeth are messed up. Didn’t even run it for 5 mins. Am I that bad at shimming or what? I mean this is ridiculous. The front diff was shimmed and it’s fine.

With all this said. HH is sending me two brand new full diffs. This will be the third rear diff. So at they’re trying to help me.

For reference I followed @Rich Duperbash YT video on shimming. It feels fine when spinning it in hand but under power it’s awful.
 
dadlifex3 said:
No kidding. That’s exactly what I was thinking. But I removed the rear diff and the pinion looks fine. The teeth on the crown gears teeth are messed up. Didn’t even run it for 5 mins. Am I that bad at shimming or what? I mean this is ridiculous. The front diff was shimmed and it’s fine.

With all this said. HH is sending me two brand new full diffs. This will be the third rear diff. So at they’re trying to help me.

For reference I followed @Rich Duperbash YT video on shimming. It feels fine when spinning it in hand but under power it’s awful.
Click to expand...

Seems like the diff itself is fine, it is the ring and pinion mesh that is not tight enough or something is flexing. I have not watch that video in quite a while - did you add any shims on the left bearing? Did you shim the input gear?

I will bet you dollars to donuts that your cover isn't being seated right or it's flexing under load. It'll all feel great until you put some power through it, and then the diff will push back from the pinion and bam... it skips and breaks teeth.
Have a watch of this video. He does quite a bit to get the ring and pinion to mesh properly.
 
I agree. The inside of the diff is fine.
I did shim the bearing side of the diff. Used two shims. Factory with 1 Techno shim. Literally no side to side play.

The input pinion gear has three shims behind the larger bearing to push it closer to the diff gear. There is no Back-and-forth play of the pinion gear.

I can guarantee the diff cover is seated correctly along with the shim on the outside of the diff. I have taken very careful attention to make sure. The diff housing/bulkhead is brand new as well.

I do agree that I feel the opinion and diff gear are not meshed correctly. What exactly do I look for in terms of play, tightness between the two gears or what? I understand tolerances but wouldn’t suspect these RCs need the tightest of tolerances. Maybe I’m wrong.
 
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