Fireteam Itch to upgrading - Question or focus is the FT diffs

[parcou]

I have the stock FT diffs with some modifications:

• The rear diff is aluminum, but not the diff housing case
• The center diff is aluminum
• Front is stock
• All diffs are shimmed to perfection
• Never had any issues so far as is...

If you changed your FT diffs to GP4 5mm 29mm or something different. How was that improvement for you better than stock FT diffs?

Or did you leave well enough alone...

Thx

 

[slick2500]

I have the stock FT diffs with some modifications:

• The rear diff is aluminum, but not the diff housing case
• The center diff is aluminum
• Front is stock
• All diffs are shimmed to perfection
• Never had any issues so far as is...

If you changed your FT diffs to GP4 5mm 29mm or something different. How was that improvement for you better than stock FT diffs?

Or did you leave well enough alone...

Thx

So far I've gotten over a year out of the stock diffs in my Fireteam.

 

[parcou]

Same here...the GP4 is better been trying to read or find if anyone has any serious issues with the stock... Thx

 

[fozzy71]

Following... I am still rocking the stock differentials, just with heavier fluid. I see people talking about the GP4 but the cost has put me off for now.

 

[parcou]

Following... I am still rocking the stock differentials, just with heavier fluid. I see people talking about the GP4 but the cost has put me off for now.

The cost is real. Why I made this post to water my fire out...

Thx for the feedback.

 

[kaladeth]

If you can afford it go for it

 

[Eno]

I do prefer the GP4 active diffs over the RTR ones.

 

[Garcbomber]

Depending on your driving tendency, parts inventory, and diff building experience. I will say the 2.25mm pins won’t hold up to more electric torque, heavier wheel/tire combo, and faster/higher bashing on an XLWB.

There’s a reason the Big Rock has the 2.5mm pins and larger outdrive shafts. All 3 of my Mojave chassis are full Alloy 29mm.

This is the problem I had after turning my own A2 2.25mm rod pins with the output shafts shearing. Rather than paying the premium for “better” outdrive material that would probably torsional shear too, I went to the next diameter upgrade and they have been great(besides rcawd cheap cast sun/planetary gears).

 

[Garcbomber]

And it wasn’t an anomaly, I’ll run my alloy cups with 31mm setups in the center where there is less diff action creating high rpm friction shock between front and rear traction.

 

[slick2500]

Depending on your driving tendency, parts inventory, and diff building experience. I will say the 2.25mm pins won’t hold up to more electric torque, heavier wheel/tire combo, and faster/higher bashing on an XLWB.

There’s a reason the Big Rock has the 2.5mm pins and larger outdrive shafts. All 3 of my Mojave chassis are full Alloy 29mm.

View attachment 384007

View attachment 384006

This is the problem I had after turning my own A2 2.25mm rod pins with the output shafts shearing. Rather than paying the premium for “better” outdrive material that would probably torsional shear too, I went to the next diameter upgrade and they have been great(besides rcawd cheap cast sun/planetary gears).

View attachment 384009

Sort of off topic but how have the crown and ring gears held up on those? I remember you saying in another thread that the internals were made from cheese.

 

[Garcbomber]

Sort of off topic but how have the crown and ring gears held up on those? I remember you saying in another thread that the internals were made from cheese.

Crown and rings have been fantastic and looked like new during all PMs. I did break an outdrive cup but it was from extreme over-compression of shock on a single arm landing causing the dogbone to pry it apart. Moved the tower upper shock eye mount lower and it’s been fine with a tube limiter on the extreme case for dozens of packs.

 

[RC Steve]

Nice drive cups.
On my bashers I set the droop 2mm shy of full shock extension and run travel reducers on my shock shafts. This is all to keep the maximum travel within the exit boundaries of the drive cups. The only drive cups issue I have is them wearing out. I run 29mm diffs on all my trucks.

 

[parcou]

Depending on your driving tendency, parts inventory, and diff building experience. I will say the 2.25mm pins won’t hold up to more electric torque, heavier wheel/tire combo, and faster/higher bashing on an XLWB.

There’s a reason the Big Rock has the 2.5mm pins and larger outdrive shafts. All 3 of my Mojave chassis are full Alloy 29mm.

View attachment 384007

View attachment 384006

This is the problem I had after turning my own A2 2.25mm rod pins with the output shafts shearing. Rather than paying the premium for “better” outdrive material that would probably torsional shear too, I went to the next diameter upgrade and they have been great(besides rcawd cheap cast sun/planetary gears).

View attachment 384009

Hi and thx

I did not add that to my OP. I did add the M2C outdrives to the stock FT diffs, non EXB version they sell. Yes, I was killing the rear.