Its me again! Mo' problems believe it or not.

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*420+3RC*

420+3RC
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Location
Cleveland TN
Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
  2. Granite
1.Shouldnt all these pieces sit flush?

2. Can I should I hire a "mechanic" to get back to proper order?? (Starting to get pissed at it every time I look at it)

3. With these ZD Racing shocks my truck is lifted higher than built. Obviously it could make things wear diff. But a whole lot? Are they "too" long?

4. Put badlands mx on it. Still 14mm hex on truck. Bought adapters to fit. Gonna try to uplaod a video. I tried to lengthen the turnbuckles to take some "toe" out now it looks like wheels are loose or kinda floppy. Thoughts?

Thanks again I really appreciate all the forum does.

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I'm not home to look at my rig but it looks like you might be missing some bushings/bearings there? I can't remember if there are some that are supposed to be there or not lol

Or it's possible you're missing a screw on the bottom or not torqueing them down enough?
 
They all there and tight on the bottom. Im thinking hoping that maybe the steering crank isnt seated as I thought it was?

Couldnt get a video that shows well enough. Im at work and only with a 📱 and inside the shop isn't lite enough. Will later.
 
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My brcc
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My granite.
The center piece where the screw goes in sits tight to chassis. The part that goes over the steering post has a nub on the inside that appears to sit tight to the inner race on the bearing or on the inner edge of the bushing.

Yours looks right to me, but I'm no expert.
 
I'm not home to look at my rig but it looks like you might be missing some bushings/bearings there? I can't remember if there are some that are supposed to be there or not lol

Or it's possible you're missing a screw on the bottom or not torqueing them down enough?
And use blue lock tite
 
The screws that go through the bottom of the chassis into the metal post for the steering rack. All the screws that hold the top bulkhead thread into plastic no thread lock should be used on plastic.
 
View attachment 161030
My brcc View attachment 161032
My granite.
The center piece where the screw goes in sits tight to chassis. The part that goes over the steering post has a nub on the inside that appears to sit tight to the inner race on the bearing or on the inner edge of the bushing.

Yours looks right to me, but I'm no expert.
Yeah it has a gap alittle bigger than mine check build sheet and tighten everything proper but I'd have to have it in my hands to be sure
 
The screws that go through the bottom of the chassis into the metal post for the steering rack. All the screws that hold the top bulkhead thread into plastic no thread lock should be used on plastic.
Oh yea I didn't think about them going into those posts. Damn just when I thought I had all the loc tite places😂
 
I don't see a problem either. That space is supposed to be there so the shock tower doesn't rub the steering. It's still holding down the bearing/bushing.

Everyone, take a look at your 3s vehicles. It's exactly the same.
😆 Thanks bud. I'm not an idiot with most things. 🤷. But for some reason this RC is eating my breakfast my lunch my snack and my dinner hell even my munchies lately
 
Well in trying to figure out wtf. I filled stock shocks with 60wt TL shock oil. And took her for a ride. Nothing seemed to bind up 👍. Motor and esc were cool 👍. Much improved over the last month or more. Did notice after the run id forgot to put any spacers back on shocks.

So here are my dislikes/concerns....
1. Like the low stance. Rather not run it off road as much and I drive in grass some.
2. With low stance the truck seems to want to nose dive even on a terrain change. Say sidewalk to grass or vise versa. Motor mounts bend blah blah y'all know the rest.
3. Love the higher stance with 6s shocks. The truck seems to hate them. Binding heat etc.
4. I want it to sit higher without the binding.

Any ideas or opinions greatly appreciated

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The ZD racing shocks are much longer than stock 3s shocks, especially in the rear. Stock is 100mm in front, 115mm in the rear. ZD racing are 110mm in front 132mm in the rear. https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...d-blx-4s-shock-information-and-upgrades.7413/

This will raise the truck, tilt it forward, and make it more prone to diving forward. The advantage to longer shocks is more cushioning and travel for jumps or rough terrain, but longer shocks will handle less precisely than shorter shocks.

Adding more preload to stiffen the front springs will reduce nose diving. What do you mean by heat/binding with a higher stance?
 
The ZD racing shocks are much longer than stock 3s shocks, especially in the rear. Stock is 100mm in front, 115mm in the rear. ZD racing are 110mm in front 132mm in the rear. https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/...d-blx-4s-shock-information-and-upgrades.7413/

This will raise the truck, tilt it forward, and make it more prone to diving forward. The advantage to longer shocks is more cushioning and travel for jumps or rough terrain, but longer shocks will handle less precisely than shorter shocks.

Adding more preload to stiffen the front springs will reduce nose diving. What do you mean by heat/binding with a higher stance?
Was thinking the stance ended up more harsh on drive components ending in heat in the motor. Ya or na?
 
No, a higher stance from longer shocks does not stress drive components more. A higher stance from larger heavier tires would stress drive components more.
 
No, a higher stance from longer shocks does not stress drive components more. A higher stance from larger heavier tires would stress drive components more.
Hmmm. Ok then. Will the longer shocks hurt anything? Or should i/ can I shorten the shock shaft some? Or just put em back on and run it again?
 
The changed drive angles from the diff to the wheel can cause binding if you go too high.
 
Must have been something else that I got lucky and fixed or fixed itsself. Took her out earlier and ran the best she has and no heat issue or binding. Ended up putting stock rear shocks with thickest spacers on front. The longer ZD's in rear.
 
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