I'VE HAD IT!!!!!

[Paultro84]

I'm done with this P.O.S Outcast!!!! How do people put these through so much more abuse than me, but mine won't hold up!?!?!? Can't even get a full run out of ******* thing!!! Trying to get the center diff out and ALL the screw heads stripped out that go in to the metal motor mount!!!! I used blue loctite and heated the dam things up with a torch BEFORE I even tried to loosen them. Snapped 2 Allen wrenches!!! Now I have to drill them out and HOPE I don't **** up the motor mount. If i didn't have soooo much money invested in to this thing I'd throw it right in the ******* dumpster!!!! As soon as I get it back to 100% it's going on Ebay. Tekno MT410 here I come!!! Or do I dare say it, maybe even a E-Revo 2.0. I used to love this thing but it's just not enjoyable anymore. 10 hours working on it for what!?!?! A 10 minute joy ride?? Try and take the best care of it. Always fix what breaks and always cleaning it. POINTLESS!!!!!

 

[joostin420]

I don’t care what manufacturer or vehicle it is. I have said the same thing over the past 30 years. I think the worst was being 10-11 years old with a Tamiya blackfoot and blowing the diff every other run and the mechanical speed controls.

With a 1:1 scale speed of 60mph the 1:8 scale speed is equivalent to around 170mph.

 

[RxMonkey]

Hey buddy we’ve all been there. Rc can be both fun and enjoyable and also expensive and aggravating. Take a breath and step away for a minute. Lets look at this when you calm down a bit.

First no RC I’ve ever had had hardware worth a damn. All of it is cheap as hell and only good for stripping. 2 things that you can do.
Buy quality hex drivers (I use integy TiNi coated they’re about $25 and change your life no joke) this will make it so your hex tip is sharp and exact size so it won’t let the screw strip.
Next get some stainless screws. If you don’t want to spend for a whole set look at a site like microfasteners.com or mcmastercarr.com they have stainless Hardware that is stronger and less likely to strip.

Finally I have the same trouble as you my man. For some reason those 3 screws are hell to remove. Here is what I do: take the hex bit out of my integy hex driver. Put it in a strong cordless drill at med speed setting. Push the tip in the screw good and tight. Punch the trigger on the drill. It hits torque quickly and pops the screw loose. Not sure what it is about those screws in particular but they’re really difficult.

I know you love your truck man. Buy a techno if you want. But part of RC is diagnosing and correcting problems. I really think some good tools would help you a lot. I know how frustrating it can be we have all been there. Step away for a while. Come back with a clear head. Sorry for your troubles. Wish you the best my man.

 

[Paultro84]

Hey buddy we’ve all been there. Rc can be both fun and enjoyable and also expensive and aggravating. Take a breath and step away for a minute. Lets look at this when you calm down a bit.

First no RC I’ve ever had had hardware worth a damn. All of it is cheap as hell and only good for stripping. 2 things that you can do.
Buy quality hex drivers (I use integy TiNi coated they’re about $25 and change your life no joke) this will make it so your hex tip is sharp and exact size so it won’t let the screw strip.
Next get some stainless screws. If you don’t want to spend for a whole set look at a site like microfasteners.com or mcmastercarr.com they have stainless Hardware that is stronger and less likely to strip.

Finally I have the same trouble as you my man. For some reason those 3 screws are hell to remove. Here is what I do: take the hex bit out of my integy hex driver. Put it in a strong cordless drill at med speed setting. Push the tip in the screw good and tight. Punch the trigger on the drill. It hits torque quickly and pops the screw loose. Not sure what it is about those screws in particular but they’re really difficult.

I know you love your truck man. Buy a techno if you want. But part of RC is diagnosing and correcting problems. I really think some good tools would help you a lot. I know how frustrating it can be we have all been there. Step away for a while. Come back with a clear head. Sorry for your troubles. Wish you the best my man.

Thank you for the kind words but I don't cheap out on my poop. Right down to my weed wacker, it gets nothing but the best. I have the Team Associated tool kit but couldn't get the leverage needed so I tried the "L" shaped wrench that came with it. Anyway, I feel like it's made of glass and I'm scared to do anything with it anymore. It's supposed to be a BASHER. I don't dare use it on hard ground. Pavement or packed dirt. Dam thing spends all it's time in the woods driving on leaves or soft soil or on the grass out in my yard. I've only jumped it about 3 or 4 feet high and maybe sent it 15 to 20 feet. I don't even bend my stock shock towers it's such a baby jump. I enjoy working on these things (most of the time) but this thing needs CONSTANT work. If I actually run it long enough to get the LVC to kick in I'm AMAZED!!!!

 

[RxMonkey]

Thank you for the kind words but I don't cheap out on my poop. Right down to my weed wacker, it gets nothing but the best. I have the Team Associated tool kit but couldn't get the leverage needed so I tried the "L" shaped wrench that came with it. Anyway, I feel like it's made of glass and I'm scared to do anything with it anymore. It's supposed to be a BASHER. I don't dare use it on hard ground. Pavement or packed dirt. Dam thing spends all it's time in the woods driving on leaves or soft soil or on the grass out in my yard. I've only jumped it about 3 or 4 feet high and maybe sent it 15 to 20 feet. I don't even bend my stock shock towers it's such a baby jump. I enjoy working on these things (most of the time) but this thing needs CONSTANT work. If I actually run it long enough to get the LVC to kick in I'm AMAZED!!!!

Gotcha. Wasn’t trying to patronize you man. That’s really unusual to have so much trouble then. Especially if you aren’t bashing it hard. I’ve only had my outcast 2 months and don’t have a ton of drive time on it. It’s been reasonably tough for me. Sell it and get what makes you happy man. No need to be stressed out. This is supposed to be a hobby and a source of fun and relaxation. Again all the best.

 

[Paultro84]

Oh I wasn't giving you poop. I appreciate what you said. I'll take your advice and sleep on it. This hobby is supposed to be my stress relief and I guess I'm just SUPER disappointed and it's just not fun anyore with this truck. Work all day and just wanna come home, Crack open a beer, fire up a lefty and run my r/c. But now I think to myself, I don't wanna break it and have to order parts and wait for them to come in and then work on it for 2 days just so i can use it for 10-20 minutes. So I'll just leave it on the shelf. I used to look forward to using it.

 

[2fast4u]

Man, Sorry to hear of your extreme frustration with it. I know I feel the same way sometimes. If not for all the time and money spent, the trash can looks pretty inviting sometimes.

 

[slick2500]

Hey buddy we’ve all been there. Rc can be both fun and enjoyable and also expensive and aggravating. Take a breath and step away for a minute. Lets look at this when you calm down a bit.

First no RC I’ve ever had had hardware worth a damn. All of it is cheap as hell and only good for stripping. 2 things that you can do.
Buy quality hex drivers (I use integy TiNi coated they’re about $25 and change your life no joke) this will make it so your hex tip is sharp and exact size so it won’t let the screw strip.
Next get some stainless screws. If you don’t want to spend for a whole set look at a site like microfasteners.com or mcmastercarr.com they have stainless Hardware that is stronger and less likely to strip.

Finally I have the same trouble as you my man. For some reason those 3 screws are hell to remove. Here is what I do: take the hex bit out of my integy hex driver. Put it in a strong cordless drill at med speed setting. Push the tip in the screw good and tight. Punch the trigger on the drill. It hits torque quickly and pops the screw loose. Not sure what it is about those screws in particular but they’re really difficult.

I know you love your truck man. Buy a techno if you want. But part of RC is diagnosing and correcting problems. I really think some good tools would help you a lot. I know how frustrating it can be we have all been there. Step away for a while. Come back with a clear head. Sorry for your troubles. Wish you the best my man.

Stainless steel is softer than 12.9 grade hardened steel just fyi.
"It is a common misconception that stainless steel is stronger than regular steel. ... Therefore, when compared to regular steel, the stainless alloys used in bolts are slightly stronger than an un-hardened (grade 2) steel but significantly weaker than hardened steel fasteners. Unless great care is taken, stainless fasteners are susceptible to seizing up during installation, a phenomenon known as galling."

 

[slick2500]

Thank you for the kind words but I don't cheap out on my poop. Right down to my weed wacker, it gets nothing but the best. I have the Team Associated tool kit but couldn't get the leverage needed so I tried the "L" shaped wrench that came with it. Anyway, I feel like it's made of glass and I'm scared to do anything with it anymore. It's supposed to be a BASHER. I don't dare use it on hard ground. Pavement or packed dirt. Dam thing spends all it's time in the woods driving on leaves or soft soil or on the grass out in my yard. I've only jumped it about 3 or 4 feet high and maybe sent it 15 to 20 feet. I don't even bend my stock shock towers it's such a baby jump. I enjoy working on these things (most of the time) but this thing needs CONSTANT work. If I actually run it long enough to get the LVC to kick in I'm AMAZED!!!!

I've heard nothing good about the Team Associated drivers, I hear they round out screws and tips wear out pretty fast. Everyone I have talked to says to go with MIP drivers.

What exactly do you keep breaking?
And I would buy a Tekno 10 times over before I ever bought another plastic Traxxas vehicle.

 

[WoodiE]

I've heard nothing good about the Team Associated drivers, I hear they round out screws and tips wear out pretty fast. Everyone I have talked to says to go with MIP drivers.

When I read the OP was rounding screws I figured it was his tools. He said he tried to use the Associated drivers, but put aside the debate of those tools being any good or not because he then said he used the L shaped wrench that came with the truck. So yup it was the tools.

And I would buy a Tekno 10 times over before I ever bought another plastic Traxxas vehicle.

To see someone mention going from a basher RC (Arrma) to a hardcore racer/basher RC (Tekno) then all the way down to Traxxas - that made me chuckle.

 

[Paultro84]

When I read the OP was rounding screws I figured it was his tools. He said he tried to use the Associated drivers, but put aside the debate of those tools being any good or not because he then said he used the L shaped wrench that came with the truck. So yup it was the tools.


To see someone mention going from a basher RC (Arrma) to a hardcore racer/basher RC (Tekno) then all the way down to Traxxas - that made me chuckle.

That's because it's getting to the point where ANYTHING would be better. Like you said, the outcast is supposed to be a basher, yet I have to baby it and it still breaks. Then more stuff gets ruined trying to fix the problem. I'm not familiar with the tekno MT410 nor have I ever owned a Traxxas, I just see videos with people bashing them so I figured I would investigate the products.

 

[Paultro84]

Motor mount is now junk as well so I need to order one. Like I said earlier I used it for 10 minutes, and now I need to order parts and wait for them to come in. It's just not worth the hassle.

 

[Mentolio]

Man I have been where you are (I was a Duratrax fanboy back in the day, talk about self abuse!). I feel for you and hope you get back to your happy place, no matter what you decide to do and/or drive. Best of luck!

 

[Paultro84]

New motor mount will be here Friday so I will be taking tons of photos and making a list of the MANY extra parts that will be included. On Monday I will post it in the classifieds on here to see if it sells. If not, it will be going on ebay.

 

[Crash]

Not sure what kind of hardware you're using but when I redid my differentials any screws that needed blue Loctite I replaced with a 10.9 or a 12.9 strength screw to avoid stripping along with using m i p drivers. Just because of issues I've had in years past with snapping screws or rounding them out. But I understand your frustrations and I hope you get it put back together and it works out for you.

 

[Iamtheoutcast]

I've heard nothing good about the Team Associated drivers, I hear they round out screws and tips wear out pretty fast. Everyone I have talked to says to go with MIP drivers.

What exactly do you keep breaking?
And I would buy a Tekno 10 times over before I ever bought another plastic Traxxas vehicle.

Sorry @Paultro84 for your frustration but I have to agree with @slick2500 get yourself a set of mip drivers and you'll b surprised how much frustration they will save you. Also get yourself a good micro screw extractor this will save you the headache of dealing with a stripped screw. With the set I have I can remove a stripped screw in less then a minute. I feel your frustration though I've been there before I used to strip screws all the time that's when I found the micro screw extractor. Then when I got my drivers I barely ever use the screw extractor now. But screws strip on pretty much every rig I've ever had so I don't think it's a brand specific thing hope after you have some time your frustration won't b as bad.

 

[slick2500]

I still want to know what keeps breaking.

 

[Jerry-rigged]

Yeah. The only thing he calls out is stripped screws? Annoying, but yeah, that is a tool issue. I have heard Arrma uses grade 10.9, which is better than most all of the SS available, and better than most RTR's. I was also stripping screws, tried the SS one, they were worse. Got better tools, no more issues. MIP for my power driver bits, EDS for hand drivers.

 

[Paultro84]

So how is it a tool issue when it's not the took that failed? It fit tight in to the head of the screw.

 

[2fast4u]

Socket head screws = PITA. Especially flat heads , (counter sunk) Depth of tool engagement is shallow. Add to that dissimilar metals (steel, aluminum) = electrolisis = corrosion, throw a little loctite in plus the added friction of the taper against the seat, inferior quality of tool, screw or both and, Presto, It's stripped.