Jerry-rigged answers the Siren's call...

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I have your new avatar. You're welcome!

Jerry-Rigged.jpg
 
Can you run a front bumper? Like the T-Bone Basher bumper for the Typhon?
Yeah, I am thinking of t-bone, front and rear... So far, i have had a t-bone free garage...

In other news, I swapped the motor leads to 4.5mm from some spare XT90 plugs. The old plugs were 4mm banana plugs. Gone!
 
Made another lunchtime run today. I did some video, but it all came out crap. My hat angle is all for something cuz most of the videos looking down near my feet while the truck is running out in front of being off camera. LOL.

New motor plugs stayed cool though which was good. Still, near the end of the run, a motor lead came off the motor. Not sure if it unsoldered or broke. Also, this run something strange was going on with the speed controller. Whenever I would hit the throttle, I never knew if I was going to have Full Throttle or half throttle. Sometimes after scooching around at reduced power suddenly it would come on full power and the truck would wheelie or try to do a half rolling backflip half. I am not sure if this be controller is failing, or something is weird in the turbo / punch settings, not sure. One way or another though, I will be running a different power system next time I take this truck out. Probably swap the motor for my BLX 185 motor, and maybe swap in my castle MMX speed controller.

I did get about 10 minutes of running today, and got the batteries down to about 3.75 volts. Nice place to stop, but still not LVC.
 
Made a quick run, actually made it to lvc with no major incidents. Got home and pulled the battery out of the truck and found this. Figure something had to go wrong. LOL
You think the lvc isn't where it should be? Maybe they over discharged.
 
You think the lvc isn't where it should be? Maybe they over discharged.
Lvc for this ESC normally leaves my batteries somewhere around 3.5 to 3.6. This ESC is a Toro ts150. I've been running it for several years.

Safe now:
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I made a front brace like that after I broke mine. Made it out of 1/4" square steel stock. Was a pain getting the bends right... then Christmas came and my wife got me the hot racing ones, so I never actually used it.
2018-0914-Outcast-HomadeFrontBraceOutOfTruck.jpg

2018-0914-Outcast-HomadeFrontBrace-CenterBrace.jpg
Looking good!! I don't think that tower brace is robust enough ?
 
Looking good!! I don't think that tower brace is robust enough ?
It's hollow... and actually, I need to find something more stout as after you cut a channel in it so it keys into the towers, it's too weak and bends/tears. I suppose I could make less of a channel, will have to see if the body mount is high enough on the rear. Just need to by more box stock.

Maybe they have a smaller steel one... lol! SCREW YOU COG! I LIKE TIPPING!
 
Also, I fixed the 4269 2350kv motor, and put it back in. Also swapped the Toro 150 for a Castle MMX.

The BLX185 motor will be going into the spare parts car. Hopefully I will have both of the trucks running by Monday. (y)(y)(y)
 
Yes, I cut the chassis. I used the new chassis as a pattern. Measure back the appropriate distance, tape the new chassis to the old chassis, and then use a razor to scribe the pattern from the new chassis on to the old chassis. Then cut the line. Also, while the new chassis is taped to the old chassis, drill all the holes. The holes in the front half of the chassis will need to be redrilled. Really, it was easier than it sounds.

Bending, yes you do need to bend the kick up into the front of the chassis after you finished cutting it. Also, you have to grind a recess in the chassis so the front differential ring gear can clear. If you notice the stock chassis has a stamped bump in it, that is what that is for.

For the ESC support, I used the stock ESC tray. I just drilled four holes in it to match the center differential lid pattern.

Edit - I mis-read the question. I used a jig-saw with a metal cutting blade to cut the chassis.
 
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