Typhon Jerry-rigged tries to go fast-

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Jerry-rigged

Have you seen my LVC?
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Texas, Baby!
Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Kraton 6s
  3. Outcast 6s
Howdy Gang-
So, Speed Build time! I have decided to convert my Siren back to a Typhon so I can play with a speed car. What will be different about my build - mostly, I don't plan on throwing a lot of money at it. ( "a lot" is relative, I know) I'd rather tinker and see what I can do with my existing hardware.

My first run was a "Base line" - where I am starting from. So nothing impressive here, but it is a start.

Comments are always welcome-

 
Howdy Gang-
So, Speed Build time! I have decided to convert my Siren back to a Typhon so I can play with a speed car. What will be different about my build - mostly, I don't plan on throwing a lot of money at it. ( "a lot" is relative, I know) I'd rather tinker and see what I can do with my existing hardware.

My first run was a "Base line" - where I am starting from. So nothing impressive here, but it is a start.

Comments are always welcome-

Be interesting to see how this little project goes! ?
 
Howdy Gang-
So, Speed Build time! I have decided to convert my Siren back to a Typhon so I can play with a speed car. What will be different about my build - mostly, I don't plan on throwing a lot of money at it. ( "a lot" is relative, I know) I'd rather tinker and see what I can do with my existing hardware.

My first run was a "Base line" - where I am starting from. So nothing impressive here, but it is a start.

Comments are always welcome-

Damn that’s an impressive first run man! First thing, get yourself a bigger place to run. You e already maxed out that spot. Find a country road that isn’t lined with water filled ditches or trees. I prefer open fields on both sides so you don’t have to deal with shadows on the road. With the next run, using the 22/38 gearing on 6S, you might clip 100 ?✊?????
 
Playing with speed calculators and excel tonight... LOL Gotta get that data, right? :)

Anyway, from https://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html - the Typhon with 20/50 and 3.81" GRP's should hit 69mph, so I guess I should be happy with my 70mph run.
speed ratio 50-20.jpg


Same calc says my my 4s 12t/50t on 6.25" badlands should have been 37 mph instead of 46. But yeah, ballooning. :)

Also set up an spreadsheet table to compare 50T ratios to 38T ratios. looks like a 17/38 should be very close to the same ratio as I had at 20t/50t. I am thinking I will make my next run there, after the rebuild. I need to practice driving at semi-sane speeds before I try to really crank it up, I think.

Also, as a side note, that calc say my 22t/38 should put me at 99mph. hummm...
 
Playing with speed calculators and excel tonight... LOL Gotta get that data, right? :)

Anyway, from https://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html - the Typhon with 20/50 and 3.81" GRP's should hit 69mph, so I guess I should be happy with my 70mph run.
View attachment 88639

Same calc says my my 4s 12t/50t on 6.25" badlands should have been 37 mph instead of 46. But yeah, ballooning. :)

Also set up an spreadsheet table to compare 50T ratios to 38T ratios. looks like a 17/38 should be very close to the same ratio as I had at 20t/50t. I am thinking I will make my next run there, after the rebuild. I need to practice driving at semi-sane speeds before I try to really crank it up, I think.

Also, as a side note, that calc say my 22t/38 should put me at 99mph. hummm...
Are you running 10/43 diffs or 13/43?
 
Finally getting around to starting the rebuild... First delay, I thought I would try sell the truck to fund a EBX, then family delays, then other stuff... But finally, the teardown.

As I started to tear the car apart, I noticed that most of the bearings were still stock. Yup, that crappy metal shielded bearings everone whines about - I had maybe two or three that were not factory... LOL And this is a V1, about 4 years old. The second thing that I began to realize - it has been a long, long, LONG time since I did a full tear down of this car... And makes me glad I didn't sell it. Would have been embarrassing to sell a car that needs this much help... Car had bent screws, stuck hinge pins, seized grub screws, and one of the diffs smelled a bit cooked.... :eek::poop:... But it is all good now, I have it about 98% dissembled, and should be "Better than new" when I am done...

Pics-

Wow, the rear diff looks ugly -
20200813_143014.jpg


chassis and rear clip-
20200813_143533.jpg


Front diff, not as bad, but smells a bit like burnt plastic... yuk.
20200813_143309.jpg


Tear down done, all plastic parts soaking.
20200813_153529.jpg


Tomorrow, rebuild the diffs and shocks, then start putting the car back together.
 
I’m not judging you or anything, but I’m surprised that your rig was in that condition. ??
 
LOL, yeah, so was I. I tear down my cars pretty often, but somehow this one got outside the schedule. When I started the tear down, I was mostly wanting to remove the dirt - Last run off road it was a bit wet... But once I saw that first diff, I knew this was gonna take a while...

Now that I think about it - normally my big tear-down revolve around repairs. This V1 Typhon is my energizer bunny - it just keeps going and going and going... No breaks = no tear downs. I did open it up when I did the Siren conversion, but that was a light cleaning, check the diffs, and put it back together.
 
I think I have found a new favorite way to clean all the plastic parts. Normally I pre-soak them as I take the car part, then scrub each part with a toothbrush. Takes forever kind of messy. Often I find parts not all the way clean while I'm putting it back together and have to scrub them again. This time, I dropped all the parts in a pre-soak as normal, let them soak overnight, and today I dumped all the parts plus the pre-soak soapy water, Plus a few pounds of beach sand in a 5 gallon bucket. Used a hose sprayer to Jet Blast the whole mess in the bucket, filling the bucket up with soapy water, using the hose jet to constantly stir the parts. Drain the water, sift for the parts from the sand, give them one more rinse, and they are all squeaky clean. Even the diff cases are clean of all the grease and grime. Very nice.

Edit for Speech-to-text cleanup...

20200817_103546.jpg
 
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Finally got the rebuild done. I gotta say, I am glad I didn't sell this rig, I would have been embarrassed to let the car go in that shape...

But it is back together now, better than new! Back to a proper Typhon wheelbase, but I used Talion rear body mounts ( and spacers up front) to raise the lid enough to clear my fat 6s packs. Set up the center diff with 500k, and the 38t HPI spur. Shocks got the stock v1 springs, on Talion shocks, mounted with the tops as inboard as I could get. Added a bit of preload to get around 1/2" chassis clearance. Topped it off with a new Outcast wing. For the GPS, I was not sure where to put it, so I velcro'ed it to the back of the motor. Not a great place, but not sure where else to put it. I did think to add a tie-wrap safety strap from the GPS to the rear chassis brace. (hint hint...)

The vid - sorry for the poor camera angle.
 
Finally got the rebuild done. I gotta say, I am glad I didn't sell this rig, I would have been embarrassed to let the car go in that shape...

But it is back together now, better than new! Back to a proper Typhon wheelbase, but I used Talion rear body mounts ( and spacers up front) to raise the lid enough to clear my fat 6s packs. Set up the center diff with 500k, and the 38t HPI spur. Shocks got the stock v1 springs, on Talion shocks, mounted with the tops as inboard as I could get. Added a bit of preload to get around 1/2" chassis clearance. Topped it off with a new Outcast wing. For the GPS, I was not sure where to put it, so I velcro'ed it to the back of the motor. Not a great place, but not sure where else to put it. I did think to add a tie-wrap safety strap from the GPS to the rear chassis brace. (hint hint...)

The vid - sorry for the poor camera angle.
A little tip, grab your phone and check your FOV before hitting record. I always try to look down my road with my phone up in my line of sight to verify it will look good. Also, if you’re doing wrenching on video, have your phone in the area you’re going to work before rolling. ????
 
A little tip, grab your phone and check your FOV before hitting record. I always try to look down my road with my phone up in my line of sight to verify it will look good. Also, if you’re doing wrenching on video, have your phone in the area you’re going to work before rolling. ????
Yeah, I switched from a hat mount to the remote mount because I can check the FOV while running. But for this run, I was too nervous/excited once the car was rolling... LOL.
 
Yeah, I switched from a hat mount to the remote mount because I can check the FOV while running. But for this run, I was too nervous/excited once the car was rolling... LOL.
Oh I know that feeling. I get it before every single speed run ??
 
Good stuff @Jerry-rigged sorry to see a crash, but does not look too bad.
Going 90+ is much harder than it appears.

My last run with the Typhon was much like yours. It was pulling hard to the side at high speed and I fought to keep it on the road.
I'd swear it was the diffs... but who knows. I had changed from full locked to 500k.

One thing for sure is to make 1 change and then test, then repeat.
I changed like 4 things before that run so I'll never know what change created the problem.
 
Another day, another trip thru the ditches... :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

But really, today I worked at less throttle, more steering, and actually didn't hit the ditch at speed. Made several passes, didn't break any personal bests, but felt like I had better control of the car. On the second or third pass, I started hearing popping when braking, and on the last pass, I finally hit WOT and the front end go boom.

Here is the vid, not real exciting, but you can hear the damage on the last pass.

As for car changes, I added my old T-Bone rear bumper back on, to give me some place to mount my GPS. Also balanced the tires. That is really all (other than fixing the damage from my last run)...

Oh, and next run, I will go back to a hat-camera. Putting the camera on the remote does not work at these speeds... :)

Zoom-Zoom.
 
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