JonDilly1974's Typhon 3S Delta Plastik Jag Body Thread

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jondilly1974

Speed running apprentice, motor Slayer 🤘
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Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Infraction
  3. Kraton 6s
  4. Kraton EXB
  5. Senton 3s
  6. Typhon 6s
  7. Typhon 3s
I needed to improve the aero of my Typhon 3S speed runner buggy, so I sought out recommendations for a better body and the consensus from veteran speed runners was the Delta Plastik Jag 0118 body. I ordered the 4mm thick body with hopes it would be stronger and flex less. I am less worried about weight and more worried about the body holding up.

Today is the day the body arrives. I have a plan on using Duratrax paints for this body. I chose them because they have larger cans and a decent selection of colors. I went with the following 4 cans"

PC256 Competition Orange
PC280 Metallic Black
PC294 Window Tint
PC290 Base Backing Coat

I plan on mocking up the body as my first step to make sure it is going to fit. I am 3D printing new shock towers to be able to lower the body. The stock 3S towers are quite tall. I am also going to install Infraction / Limitless shocks as the Typhon 6S shocks I have been running are going to be much too long now. I am going to have to experiment with the body posts as well.
 
?That body should be a tank. I have never owned a 4mm body but I can only imagine it's strength!

I crashed a Slash 4x4 at 83mph with a delta jag body (either 2mm or 3mm) and the car slid on the roof for at least 200 ft. Dusted it off and put it back on its wheels, good to go! It survived only with some cosmetic scratches.

Looking forward to seeing what you come up with for the paint and mounting. (y)
 
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First step for me was to define the wheel wells. I printed 98mm arches on clear labels and measured three times to make sure they are in the correct places. I can always end up taking off more material if needed, but this is the minimum for GRPs.

D0147FB1-9E71-480C-AE2F-763487CA4B92.jpeg

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Awesome stuff @jondilly1974 .
I can only imagine though what a nuisance this is going to be drilling out and marking the body post mounts not being able to see through the shell. :oops: Have you thought about how you're going to tackle that?

You could try those magnetic body post markers as they look pretty good for this sort of thing.
 
Awesome stuff @jondilly1974 .
I can only imagine though what a nuisance this is going to be drilling out and marking the body post mounts not being able to see through the shell. :oops: Have you thought about how you're going to tackle that?

You could try those magnetic body post markers as they look pretty good for this sort of thing.

There are a few tricks that work well for finding where the posts sit. One is a super bright LED light under the body, which may allow you to see.
The other is a trick I use pretty often. Apply washable paint, enough to stay wet on the tower area around the holes. Place the body and then remove. It should leave circular marks where you need to drill holes. (this is assuming you got things centered correctly when lowering the body down to the posts)

This method was how I marked my Motor mount holes and later the servo mount holes on the CF chassis.
paint marking spots Capture.JPG
 
I was just going to remove the mask in the body post area and then replace it with tape after I get the body holes finished.
Wait what? :unsure:
Sorry I thought it was solid white colour like those russian "indestructible" tough body shells are which come only in solid colours, ....so it's clear underneath then.
Happy days then. :)(y)
 
Wait what? :unsure:
Sorry I thought it was solid white colour like those russian "indestructible" tough body shells are which come only in solid colours, ....so it's clear underneath then.
Happy days then. :)(y)
Yep the white is the paint shield on the outside that you can pull back to reveal a clear body. ??
 
Yep the white is the paint shield on the outside that you can pull back to reveal a clear body. ??
That's good then.
I knew they were clear for the thinner body shells but I've never seen the 4mm thick ones so wrongly thought maybe it was a solid colour.
I stand corrected. ;)

Looking forward to seeing how it all goes and I like the sound of the colour scheme you've chosen.
 
Rough cut is done on the wheel wells. I used a 2-1/2” (68mm) hole saw to get a bulk of the area removed and then used my lexan scissors to finish the rest. I have a blister on my palm ?

C76F6FF4-6C6C-424D-ACD9-F52BE70AA2DE.jpeg

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Body is now cut, body mount holes are cut too. Ride height is somewhat set, but plenty of adjustments to tweak there. My new shock mounts are still printing.

76B9CBD8-62F8-471D-B5BD-865849C9E290.jpeg

459B3DCB-CE61-4CD9-BC49-168990D8BD15.jpeg

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There are a few tricks that work well for finding where the posts sit. One is a super bright LED light under the body, which may allow you to see.
The other is a trick I use pretty often. Apply washable paint, enough to stay wet on the tower area around the holes. Place the body and then remove. It should leave circular marks where you need to drill holes. (this is assuming you got things centered correctly when lowering the body down to the posts)

This method was how I marked my Motor mount holes and later the servo mount holes on the CF chassis.
View attachment 57484
I do the exact same thing using a bright LED to help locate the body pins location on a painted body. (y) One that hopefully is translucent enough. Paint method also works for me. But most of my clear bodies I pre drill mounting before masking and painting.
 
Looking good!
By chance do you have a scale to weigh the body? I am curious what a 4mm body weight is...
This is trimmed weight before paint

8519C4F3-AC39-49D6-BCC4-C995721A0553.jpeg
 
I see that your body says 4mm, I bought a delta plastik body that's 2mm thinking it would be 2mm thick and it certainly is not 2mm thick..!!

What thickness is yours..??

I don't understand delta plastik's thickness scale..?

And as for cutting wheel arches, you should get yourself a compass cutter..??
 
I will have to measure when I get home, but I also doubt it’s really 4mm. It is super thick and heavy as heck tho
 
I wonder if they use the thickness of the sheet before they form the body?

I know the plastic stretches some when they pull the vacuum on the mold.....
That would make sense. ??
 
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