Outcast JPs_RC_dining room Outcast 4s

[JPWSRC]

Was waiting to create a build thread until the rig had been run. Well, I did that yesterday so it's officially done and in need of its first repairs...

Since Arrma discontinued their 4s line I was forced to come up with my own version of their Outcast 4s.
My inspiration was from a couple of sources; @Steve38 who pointed me towards the roll hoop I was hoping to install on my Bigrock, and the second came in the form of a sweet deal on a local sale for a complete Typhon 3s which also had a brand new spektrum 130a esc and 2400kv motor still in the box, a set of hoons, and a full castellated 4s slipper. Basically close to 300 in new components that made it more attractive to build out this rig.

I will say this because if your reading this I know you're thinking it. This is probably the most expensive way to build a car, and I would have been better off building a Kraton 4s using the Typhon chassis I just bought above. If it weren't for the smoking deal on the electronics and slipper, I would not have moved forward with this and will most likely not do this again unless it's a roller. At this time I probably have well north of 400 into this build and I just ordered Arrma upgraded CVDs and HR yokes $$$... In comparison, I just acquired a K4S that was intact and operational. I spent about 20.00 for parts to repair it and another 40.00 to upgrade the rear diff to steel gears. Total investment of 340.00 and it has a TBR exo cage and RC4GS Tx/rec combo.
Driving the two rigs is like night and day. The OC although the wild child of the two is significantly more precise and smooth.

I started acquiring the parts around Dec 16 for this build. I finally completed the rig early in January, gave it a quick electronics check, then disassembled it to upgrade and fill the diffs and top off the shocks. I installed Arrmas CNC cut crown and input gears, and a composite diff cup at the rear diff only. Will see if that plan works out...

With help from some fine folks here @HZRDOS and others, I was able to address the weak areas in this build and upgrade as it went along. I was hoping I wouldn't need the upgraded Arrma CVDs but it appears I was wrong....
Most parts were sourced on Ebay and Amazon ( free shipping). The chassis, DX3 Transmitter and SR6200A receiver, and core chassis parts are from Jenny's RC.
Any odd parts I overlooked I sourced through my LHS.
Upgrades:
-RPM arms ( technically the only available choice anyway)
-M2C racing motor mount and brace
-GPM front upper body mount bracket
-Hot Racing pivot balls, C-hubs steering servo and yokes ( ordered)
-Integy shock tower braces ( waiting on rear)
-Arrma Typhon 6s v4 shocks
-Arrmaskinz chassis skin
-Spektrum 130a esc and 3668 2400kv motor
-TBR front bumper
-Spektrum Dx3 transmitter and 6200A AVC receiver
-Arrma upgrade CVDs w/ 17mm hub adapters

 

[HZRDOS]

Looks great! Unfortunate about the driveshafts....yeah, CVDs are a must.

 

[grihn]

Awesome build. I really need to do this, I love the body style of the Outcast, and I love the size of the 4s. I think you've inspired me...damn the money! Do you just use the Front/Rear shock set from the Typhon?

 

[JPWSRC]

Awesome build. I really need to do this, I love the body style of the Outcast, and I love the size of the 4s. I think you've inspired me...damn the money! Do you just use the Front/Rear shock set from the Typhon?

I did. I know they are the same as some of the other arrma 6s options but were available on JRC so I grabbed a set. Gotta agree, the body style appeals to me, even more than the 10th Anniversary Outcast. Very happy with both 4s rigs, the Outcast does standing back flips. I have a pretty comprehensive parts list I can edit into my intro thread if necessary.
Oh did I mention standing backflips!?!

 

[HZRDOS]

I did. I know they are the same as some of the other arrma 6s options but were available on JRC so I grabbed a set. Gotta agree, the body style appeals to me, even more than the 10th Anniversary Outcast. Very happy with both 4s rigs, the Outcast does standing back flips. I have a pretty comprehensive parts list I can edit into my intro thread if necessary.
Oh did I mention standing backflips!?!

Careful with the standing backflips...those diffs are at the limit of their strength on 4s. Keep that slipper dialed in.

 

[grihn]

Would the new style slipper (Vendetta) and the CNC crown gear address that?

 

[HZRDOS]

Would the new style slipper (Vendetta) and the CNC crown gear address that?

Crown gear is not the issue. Issue is the output shafts in the diff. I have killed about 3 diffs like this. Yes - I am heavy on throttle....

 

[JPWSRC]

Crown gear is not the issue. Issue is the output shafts in the diff. I have killed about 3 diffs like this. Yes - I am heavy on throttle....

View attachment 194957

Good to know!

 

[JPWSRC]

More updates...
After the initial run at the park last Sunday my rear diff was clicking and I broke one slider axle. The rear diff has CNC gears and was just too much stress for the yoke to keep it aligned. Smooth as silk after the update. I'll probably end up setting the Kratons rear end same way when it starts clicking...

I'm running a 15t pinion gear and it's "flipping crazy" still. Will probably take the punch down 1 level and see how she runs. Nothings wasted, the axles will be spares for the 4S Kraton (and this rig) WHEN they give up...
New parts:
-HR yokes
-ARRMA cvd's w/17mm hub nuts.
-Tekno .2mm shims for the differential.
-TBRC .3 mm shims for the hubs.

Bling, with performance!
Beauty or Beast?

 

[HZRDOS]

Nice. Yeah...those diffs are picky.

You broke a stock axle? Not the CVD...right?

 

[JPWSRC]

Nice. Yeah...those diffs are picky.

You broke a stock axle? Not the CVD...right?

Yes, the universal seperated at the output shaft. I was able to press it back. Might get a pack or two out of it on the Kraton.

I ran two packs through the Kraton and it's still smooth as silk with the composite yoke. It may hold up, it may not... when it gives I'll add the HR yoke to it. I also seperated a left rear universal on as well. I was gonna just swap out the rear shafts for the Arrma CVDs but thought it would look hokey with half the cars on original and upgraded axles.

 

[HZRDOS]

I am lazy when I do the 4s diffs. Just take out the bottom screws, the two tierods so I can slide the axles off, then separate the bulkhead enough to remove the diff. Takes like 5 mins to get a diff out like that.

 

[JPWSRC]

I am lazy when I do the 4s diffs. Just take out the bottom screws, the two tierods so I can slide the axles off, then separate the bulkhead enough to remove the diff. Takes like 5 mins to get a diff out like that.

I got this down to a three minute job.
Took more time to blow the chassis clean!

 

[JPWSRC]

I added the rear Integy shock tower brace this evening.

 

[HZRDOS]

I added the rear Integy shock tower brace this evening.

View attachment 196134

Nice!

 

[JPWSRC]

More to come...
It looks like I'll be swapping out some of these parts onto my V1 K4 in the hopes of creating a V2 OC4. Will see once ARRMA finally releases the V2 4s line.

 

[Robbbbbb66]

More to come...
It looks like I'll be swapping out some of these parts onto my V1 K4 in the hopes of creating a V2 OC4. Will see once ARRMA finally releases the V2 4s line.

Bashed my OC4s v1 fairly hard today and only thing a broke was a front shock tower ( multiple asphalt upside down landings ), does the intergy brace help with this issue?


TIA

 

[JPWSRC]

Bashed my OC4s v1 fairly hard today and only thing a broke was a front shock tower ( multiple asphalt upside down landings ), does the intergy brace help with this issue?


TIA

I doubt that will prevent it. The brace is meant to add strength to one of the shear points from shock compression. If you want to keep the towers from breaking from bad landings, some dense foam attached to the towers may help, but ultimately learning better air control will do wonders for your wallet.

 

[Robbbbbb66]

I doubt that will prevent it. The brace is meant to add strength to one of the shear points from shock compression. If you want to keep the towers from breaking from bad landings, some dense foam attached to the towers may help, but ultimately learning better air control will do wonders for your wallet.

Yeah, I know lol.

Still getting used to the cars air handling and I’m still using a STX2 which is a mistake.

Also, do you know a fix for the leaky 4s stock shocks?

Thanks.

 

[JPWSRC]

Yeah, I know lol.

Still getting used to the cars air handling and I’m still using a STX2 which is a mistake.

Also, do you know a fix for the leaky 4s stock shocks?

Thanks.

Oh, yeah you're doomed. Dump that STX2!
I've replaced the seals/ o-rings. I'm using 6s shocks for the OC4, however I've rebuilt my original K4 shocks and have no leaks. Put green Slime on the o-rings to prevent them from tearing.