Kraton Just bought a Kraton 6s V5, motor got hot on first run

[bmanor88]

What the title says. Ripped it on two 3s 80c batteries in a gym (low traction) for about 20 minutes. Opened it up and I couldn't tough the motor. ESC was fine. I curious if there is a something I should check, or add a fan. Or is this an issue and I should contact Horizon.

Thanks!

 

[Ken1Legobil]

Motors get hot.. anyway check for binding on gear or any moving part in the drive chain. But, ofc if you run flat out it gets hot too.
Take it easy with the triggerfinger, and don´t push it too much. Aka don´t drive it as it was stolen.

 

[L3phturn]

What the title says. Ripped it on two 3s 80c batteries in a gym (low traction) for about 20 minutes. Opened it up and I couldn't tough the motor. ESC was fine. I curious if there is a something I should check, or add a fan. Or is this an issue and I should contact Horizon.

Thanks!

I am not sure that is low traction, and it certainly isn’t the intended terrain for that rig. A heatsink and fan set will certainly help. You also need to check your gear mesh. You need an I fared temp gun to check the temperature in the center of the end bell after every 5 or 10 minutes until you k ow you aren’t getting too hot.

Be sure you set your steering end points as YouTuber @razorrc demonstrates here:.

 

[valhorth]

I have a similar issue with my Kraton 6s v4. The motors are different, and I run 2x 3s 7600mAh 75c lipos. I regularly check the motor when running, and when I can't hold my fingers on it for longer then 5 seconds, I just let i cool down.

In terms of motor cooling, the Yeah Racing 1/8 Twin Fan Aluminum Heat Sink might be of interest: https://www.yeahracing.com/heat-sin...bk-00033978?search=YA-0261BK&description=true

I'm trying to find it in Europe, but no luck so far...

Alternatively, if you have or know someone with a 3D printer: https://myhub.autodesk360.com/ue296302a/g/shares/SHabee1QT1a327cf2b7ad534fd625be0a615?viewState=NoIgbgDAdAjCA0IDeAdEAXAngBwKZoC40ARXAZwEsBzAOzXjQEMyzd1C0BOAZlwA5+EGAFoA7ACYIAM2EAWRlIjCBANgAmwmOsayArH15qARtzQBfEAF0gA


Edit: I found one in Germany in stock, ordered it right away!

 

[L3phturn]

I have a similar issue with my Kraton 6s v4. The motors are different, and I run 2x 3s 7600mAh 75c lipos.

That explains the heat, those are really large and must weigh a lot more than say two 5,000 mAh batteries. How much do two of those weigh?

 

[valhorth]

According to the specs from the shop I bought them:

• Size : 35x47x138mm
• Weight : 496g

They barely fit into the battery compartement height wise. the length is standard fit. They are hard case also.

Btw, I generally do not run the full 40-45 minutes straight because of the heat. I usually take cooldown breaks about every 10 minutes for 10-15 minutes.
I am going to check for some 5000mAh (or even lower) lipos also, have a few options to choose from for short and longer sessions.

 

[L3phturn]

Take a look at single 6S batteries. They come out 700-800 grams usually. Soft case.

 

[valhorth]

I did already. Most of the time the 4000mAh+ 50c are more expensive then buying 2 3s batteries with the same rating and mAh. The price difference is usually 30€-70€.
If I'd buy the 5300mAh of the same ones I have now, I would be at 372g a piece, and 45€ cheaper then a single 5000mAh 50c 6s.
In the end it doesn't really matter for me, I have a dual charger anyways.

 

[ph47mf]

my money is on gear mesh not spot on

 

[valhorth]

my money is on gear mesh not spot on

Can you elaborate a little bit more on the why of it? I'm not sure I completely understand it.

 

[SrC]

I did already. Most of the time the 4000mAh+ 50c are more expensive then buying 2 3s batteries with the same rating and mAh. The price difference is usually 30€-70€.
If I'd buy the 5300mAh of the same ones I have now, I would be at 372g a piece, and 45€ cheaper then a single 5000mAh 50c 6s.
In the end it doesn't really matter for me, I have a dual charger anyways.

It not about the price or charging ability. (convenience) Its about the weight difference between larger and smaller capacity lipos. Add a half pound of weight more and run your stuff a bit hotter.
'If you don't have a Temp gun and using your fingers to determine temps, it's all a guess to how hot things are. Just facts. Get an inexpensive heat gun! Otherwise you are just chasing a ghost.
To come here and say you are running hot is purely subjective. Because your finger is burned from the temp?
Come here with Temp reads.
Motors at 212F internal temps will destroy the stator(winds) ruin the armature etc. An external temp read of 160F max. and lower with an inexpensive temp gun is acceptable. No higher! Can your finger distinguish 160F from 200F??? Doubt it.
Running indoors in a gym will run hot. Like running outside in summer warmer climates. FWIW.
Fans are required.... everyone uses them on their motors. A common first upgrade out the box.

 

[L3phturn]

I did already. Most of the time the 4000mAh+ 50c are more expensive then buying 2 3s batteries with the same rating and mAh. The price difference is usually 30€-70€.
If I'd buy the 5300mAh of the same ones I have now, I would be at 372g a piece, and 45€ cheaper then a single 5000mAh 50c 6s.
In the end it doesn't really matter for me, I have a dual charger anyways.

Then do that. Go soft case, no need for hard that I can see. Get an infrared thermometer. Check your bearings.

Make a video of rocking your spur gear so we can see and hear how your mesh is.

 

[valhorth]

It not about the price or charging ability. (convenience) Its about the weight difference between larger and smaller capacity lipos. Add a half pound of weight more and run your stuff a bit hotter.
'If you don't have a Temp gun and using your fingers to determine temps, it's all a guess to how hot things are. Just facts. Get an inexpensive heat gun! Otherwise you are just chasing a ghost.
To come here and say you are running hot is purely subjective. Because your finger is burned from the temp?
Come here with Temp reads.
Motors at 212F internal temps will destroy the stator(winds) ruin the armature etc. An external temp read of 160F max. and lower with an inexpensive temp gun is acceptable. No higher! Can your finger distinguish 160F from 200F??? Doubt it.
Running indoors in a gym will run hot. Like running outside in summer warmer climates. FWIW.
Fans are required.... everyone uses them on their motors. A common first upgrade out the box.

I understand that the weight is a factor. but that much, the 250g difference, I had no idea. Allright, even more things to buy...

For reference, I did not burn my fingers, yet, but at it's hottest, I could not leave it on for 5 seconds, maybe 2 at most. It is still subjective, agreed, but for me personally it was a case to worry already. And that was with the warmest weather the car has seen yet, 18C (65F). And I just tested this, our water heater is set to 65C (150F), I burnt my finger...

I did order a fan online already. I even asked if they had something in the hobbyshop today, but they were all sold out.

So, to measure the temp, is it the back side of the motor you have to look at, or is the body ok too?

Many more things to learn it seems.

 

[SrC]

Don't stress over battery weight so much. You have what you have. Just understand there are different weights depending on Mah capacity. You can work around that and all. Just Need a High speed 40mm fan.
You can even get a temp gun at The Home Depot. If you say the motor is hot, at least you are conscious about temps.
Temp gun can only confirm that. I will use a finger to touch, but my Temp gun/meter is always in my pocket as well as a cheap Lipo Meter when I bash.
Take temp reads at the middle of the motor if possible. Not on the HS itself. The motor end where the wires are is a good spot also. Take several reads all around. There will be a hottest spot. That is the reference spot. Take temps of your ESC, connectors and Lipos and center diff. on occasion also. Heat in general is a tell tale sign of worn or failing RC components in general.

 

[bmanor88]

I appreciate you two having this conversation. I've learned a lot!

 

[valhorth]

Then do that. Go soft case, no need for hard that I can see. Get an infrared thermometer. Check your bearings.

Make a video of rocking your spur gear so we can see and hear how your mesh is.

Euh, spur gear, I have a little bit of play, I followed a guide from amain hobby about using a little piece of paper.

In the mean while, I also found something that if your motor is just a tiny fraction positioned crooked in the sliding mount, it can also raise temperatures. So I'll have to check that also, right?

I appreciate you two having this conversation. I've learned a lot!

Yeah, sorry, I kind of hijacked your thread...

 

[L3phturn]

Mesh seems fine.

 

[GamwToInsomnia.gr]

gym (low traction)

Thanks!

In a low traction surface, the motor runs at higher rpms but with lower speed, so the air flow is less!

 

[Jzepp]

I love my yeah racing heatsink with dual cooling fans..keeps the motor heat in check

 

[calebgilmore]

One bad side effect of lower mah batteries will be if you do decide down the road to up the power (and who don't?) you'll end up draining a smaller battery in no time. I run 5000mah graphenes on a max6/1480kv combo geared 24/46 and i get maybe 10-15 min before lvc and i'm pretty heavy on the trigger. My mojave runs the max6/1650kv combo and a 7700mah smc graphene made it about as long and it's a heavy pig with all the just bash it and vitavon upgrades.