Typhon Just got my first typhon 6s , Having some issues

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typhonanfx

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
  2. Typhon 6s
So what’s going on guys ,

I’ve just bit the bullet and bought myself a bran new typhon 6s blx,

already burnt out my stock tyres and flipped it a few times ??‍♂️? but no chassis damage

I have grinded my rear diff and it was kicking out to badly , with a little messing about I discovered only one back wheel was powered ,

opened up my rear diff case and boom found the problem,
main reason for this thread , I’ve seen some videos about adding some shims to the stock diff it’s suppose to tighten it up a bit before I put it back together!

what’s the deal with the 15/30/100k oil range and what dose it’s do ?

4CAA7119-9FD8-4863-A145-DBD5529CE99A.jpeg
 
So what’s going on guys ,

I’ve just bit the bullet and bought myself a bran new typhon 6s blx,

already burnt out my stock tyres and flipped it a few times ??‍♂️? but no chassis damage

I have grinded my rear diff and it was kicking out to badly , with a little messing about I discovered only one back wheel was powered ,

opened up my rear diff case and boom found the problem,
main reason for this thread , I’ve seen some videos about adding some shims to the stock diff it’s suppose to tighten it up a bit before I put it back together!

what’s the deal with the 15/30/100k oil range and what dose it’s do ?

https://www.myrcbox.com/articles/tech-article-diff-tuning-guide-for-buggy-and-truggy/

this is a pretty easy read on how to set up your diff. It’s going to depend on how you want the car to handle and drive and how you’re going to drive it. Someone who races would want a different set up than someone who does bashing. Yes, shim you’re diffs. There are already posts on here how to do it and also on YouTube. One behind two spider gears, the spider gear that are next to each other not across from one another. And one behind the sun gear that you broke. Once out together your diff should have a small shim that goes on the outside of your bearing on the crown gear side to push it into your input gear. People also but a shim behind their input gear as well.
 
So what’s going on guys ,

I’ve just bit the bullet and bought myself a bran new typhon 6s blx,

already burnt out my stock tyres and flipped it a few times ??‍♂️? but no chassis damage

I have grinded my rear diff and it was kicking out to badly , with a little messing about I discovered only one back wheel was powered ,

opened up my rear diff case and boom found the problem,
main reason for this thread , I’ve seen some videos about adding some shims to the stock diff it’s suppose to tighten it up a bit before I put it back together!

what’s the deal with the 15/30/100k oil range and what dose it’s do ?
Welcome to the Arrma Fam

I’m rebuilding my diffs for the first time in my Typhon 6s soon as well. I’m still waiting on my shims to arrive. They are taking the slow boat from California.

There are two packs of shims you will want to get. The Mugen and Kyosho. The Mugen large shim will replace the small stock shim behind the pin that was behind that sun gear that broke. Check the pin integrity too. They sometimes break too. The larger shim will support that pin better.

Go to YouTube and find the @Rich Duperbash diff video for more tips.
 
Welcome to the Arrma Fam

I’m rebuilding my diffs for the first time in my Typhon 6s soon as well. I’m still waiting on my shims to arrive. They are taking the slow boat from California.

There are two packs of shims you will want to get. The Mugen and Kyosho. The Mugen large shim will replace the small stock shim behind the pin that was behind that sun gear that broke. Check the pin integrity too. They sometimes break too. The larger shim will support that pin better.

Go to YouTube and find the @Rich Duperbash diff video for more tips.
Yo it’s cool this is my first time to ever use a forum , I think it’s sweet that I can talk with guys that are sharing the same hobby , thanks so much
 
Yo it’s cool this is my first time to ever use a forum , I think it’s sweet that I can talk with guys that are sharing the same hobby , thanks so much
Glad you stopped by. ??
 
So what’s going on guys ,

I’ve just bit the bullet and bought myself a bran new typhon 6s blx,

already burnt out my stock tyres and flipped it a few times ??‍♂️? but no chassis damage

I have grinded my rear diff and it was kicking out to badly , with a little messing about I discovered only one back wheel was powered ,

opened up my rear diff case and boom found the problem,
main reason for this thread , I’ve seen some videos about adding some shims to the stock diff it’s suppose to tighten it up a bit before I put it back together!

what’s the deal with the 15/30/100k oil range and what dose it’s do ?

View attachment 76328
First off, welcome!

If you have the latest version, you shouldn't need to shim the inside of the diffs. They added shims with the V4. As far as shimming the outside, you should have one there already and I'd bet money you don't need to add any more. I haven't shimmed my V4 Talion and I haven't had any issues. I'm pretty hard on it too.

When I see the inside big gear broken, I usually chalk it up to driver error. If you land a jump under power OR under full brake, that gear (or the pin below it) will usually break. I've broken one of those gears in the five 6S Arrmas that I own and it was definitely my fault (in a span of 2+ years).

You can buy the shims that Dilly suggested but good luck fitting them inside the diff. Like I said, it already has shims in there and adding more will most likely bind your differential. Let us know how it goes.
 
They already had miniature shims on the back of the bigger gear where people suggest put them so I cleaned and re-used it and the new pack of Diff gears I got had new shims included I’m on the hike run now
Can anyone suggest what’s the factory camber setting or what hole I should use on the shock tower or is that just preference on how you want the wheels to sit ?
 

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For diff oil tuning see this guide..
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/differential-oil-weight-tips.1727/

Typhon 6S, Currently I'm on F-50, C-300, R-30. The first diff oil change I made was putting 300k in the centre, I instantly got a really big traction increase from that with much less 'diffing out' on the front end.
On tarmac or smooth loose surfaces it was great but on bumpier surfaces it wanted to dart everywhere and control was much more difficult.

I left it at 300k because I knew my GT5's gyro that was going to go in... would likely remedy that to some extent... and I was right. It made a huge difference.. instant stability transformation.

The front/rear diff oils will be experimented with further but I cant determine much change in the handling balance tbh. Maybe a bit more stability and improved drift handling.. but I'd have to test the back to back to be able to say that with any conviction.

Hope that helps somewhat..
 
I just finished changing diff oil from stock to 20k/500k/20k think I made a speed run basher
V3 model didn’t have shims At all had to add shims. V3 takes a lot of damn shims but this poop is a different beast haha I even put shim in front and rear bulkhead in between the input shaft and big bearing inside if that makes
2:50 mark

If y’all didn’t now that
 
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