Just ordered an ender 3 v2

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You might want to calibrate the esteps to prevent any extrusion issues, I had to do it on my ender 3 pro in order to get a good print. If you have never used a 3d printer before, learn how to level the bed as that’s one of the biggest causes of bad prints. I would also invest in a heated box for the filament, it really helps with keeping the filament dry.
 
You might want to calibrate the esteps to prevent any extrusion issues, I had to do it on my ender 3 pro in order to get a good print. If you have never used a 3d printer before, learn how to level the bed as that’s one of the biggest causes of bad prints. I would also invest in a heated box for the filament, it really helps with keeping the filament dry.
I really haven't learned the language of it all yet so I have some studying to do and then I can refer back to what you guys are saying here. I appreciate the input.
Yup. Learn to level, keep your filament dry, and play with Cura, or whatever slicer you use.

And have fun!
Sounds weird that you need to keep it dry but sounds like it makes a difference because I saw that somewhere else as well
 
1. Getting your bed level and maintaining it ,is crucial. Just comes with practice.

2. Now getting that FIRST Layer printing correctly And Consistently will be a challenge for new users. So, be patient and keep an eye on how the filament is being laid out on the print bed. You'll eventually get a feel and see how it should be on "good prints" and when it starts to deviate - which usually means something is getting out of alignment or some other print issues coming...

3. Try to hold back on the temptation of pushing your Ender to print at or near its Maximum speed. Slow and steady is the key to consistent reliable prints verses Failed "noodle" printing, delaminations between layers of printed parts, or your prints being knocked off the printbed half way thru a printing process...

Just keep in mind, whatever is listed as its capable print speed is usually just the theoretical speed , usually just marketing bullet points to sell you the printer. It's not the ideal nominal speed. So keep it slow, you're get much better results, waste less filaments, and be happier with 3D printing.

Good luck and Happy printing!
 
Oh and another quick note-

Don't assume whatever "good" settings you used for one filament brand/type/color on a successful print.., that you can just used that "same settings" for All future prints no matter if you just switch color etc.

Filaments are ALL different, even just different colors of filament from the Same manufacturer can have different requirements which can lead to random bad prints. So, be prepared to make setting adjustments for each type/color of filaments and keep good notes on those settings for the different filaments.
 
Oh and another quick note-

Don't assume whatever "good" settings you used for one filament brand/type/color on a successful print.., that you can just used that "same settings" for All future prints no matter if you just switch color etc.

Filaments are ALL different, even just different colors of filament from the Same manufacturer can have different requirements which can lead to random bad prints. So, be prepared to make setting adjustments for each type/color of filaments and keep good notes on those settings for the different filaments.
So true! I managed to find the correct settings for both Hatchbox PLA and Overture PLA Plus, but it took a lot of tweaking and tuning to make it perfect.
 
I really haven't learned the language of it all yet so I have some studying to do and then I can refer back to what you guys are saying here. I appreciate the input.

Sounds weird that you need to keep it dry but sounds like it makes a difference because I saw that somewhere else as well
Yeah, PLA plastic can absorb water out of the air, and when it gets wet, it get brittle and won't print right. If it is very wet, it will pop like tiny popcorn while printing, as the water boils out of the plastic. :oops: I have a pair of these renewable de-humidifiers in a sealed/gasketed waterproof tote bins. Stick a Hydrometer to the lid and you can keep track of when you need to renew the dehumidifiers. Cheap-ish setup, but works. I also have a second set-up, for my son's welding rods. Weird the things that will soak up water out of the air...
 
Yeah, PLA plastic can absorb water out of the air, and when it gets wet, it get brittle and won't print right. If it is very wet, it will pop like tiny popcorn while printing, as the water boils out of the plastic. :oops: I have a pair of these renewable de-humidifiers in a sealed/gasketed waterproof tote bins. Stick a Hydrometer to the lid and you can keep track of when you need to renew the dehumidifiers. Cheap-ish setup, but works. I also have a second set-up, for my son's welding rods. Weird the things that will soak up water out of the air...
Might just copy you on that then! Thank you for the list of things I appreciate that a lot. Do you keep both the de-humidifiers in at the same time or do you cycle them as you need to charge them?
1. Getting your bed level and maintaining it ,is crucial. Just comes with practice.

2. Now getting that FIRST Layer printing correctly And Consistently will be a challenge for new users. So, be patient and keep an eye on how the filament is being laid out on the print bed. You'll eventually get a feel and see how it should be on "good prints" and when it starts to deviate - which usually means something is getting out of alignment or some other print issues coming...

3. Try to hold back on the temptation of pushing your Ender to print at or near its Maximum speed. Slow and steady is the key to consistent reliable prints verses Failed "noodle" printing, delaminations between layers of printed parts, or your prints being knocked off the printbed half way thru a printing process...

Just keep in mind, whatever is listed as its capable print speed is usually just the theoretical speed , usually just marketing bullet points to sell you the printer. It's not the ideal nominal speed. So keep it slow, you're get much better results, waste less filaments, and be happier with 3D printing.

Good luck and Happy printing!
My thought process at the moment is printing rc parts. Fan mounts and such, is there a material type you would recommend? Thank you for all the info i very much appreciate it, I did see somewhere else to lower the speed as well so I made note of that.
 
Since you're literally just starting out, stick with PLA filament.
Make sure you pick the correct size for your printer = Usually 1.75mm (and Not 2.85/"3mm", those won't fit.)

You might be tempted to get several "alloyed" PLA that's on the market, such as: PLA+, High Impact PLA, Carbon fiber PLA, Metal infused PLA...
Just save your money and stick to the basics for now.
Until you really master the design of your parts, tuning of the settings and getting consistent with your prints Before you attempt to use those other types. Plus, to use some of those filaments will require you to change out your nozzle type and go much higher temperatures to get good results. Just a heads up.

There's such a large variance between Brands, but here's a few proven ones: (no particular order)

eSun
Hatchbox
Polymaker
Proto-pasta
Overture

Here's a few links to get you more info:
PLA filament 101
Special PLA
 
In my experience, PLA+ is just as easy to print as PLA, it just requires a higher temperature than PLA.
 
Might just copy you on that then! Thank you for the list of things I appreciate that a lot. Do you keep both the de-humidifiers in at the same time or do you cycle them as you need to charge them?

My thought process at the moment is printing rc parts. Fan mounts and such, is there a material type you would recommend? Thank you for all the info i very much appreciate it, I did see somewhere else to lower the speed as well so I made note of that.
I actually have 3. Two are older and saturate at a lower humidity vs the newer one. So they change color first, and I will pull them for regen, and leave the other in the box. When the first ones are done, I will swap them and regen the last one.
 
Which filament you want to you for your Ender. I use this CC3D Silk Gold PLA for my Ender 3 printer and I'll suggest you also to use CC3D filament.
 
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