Granite Just stripped the diff outdrive screws...

[Mongoose]

So, you take the diff and the driveshafts out run a driver up through the center of the shafts to unscrew the flat head screw holding the shafts to the outdrive correct?

 

[Mongoose]

Oh and to make matters worse I just finished the rest of the Vodka in the house

 

[Mongoose]

For the record Arrma can kiss my hairy ass for this crap....some of us use MIP drivers you idiots! If you are going to make it so that you need to use a regular Allen wrench then don't drive them until they won’t break loose with a regular wrench!

I could understand if this weren’t a beginner model....

 

[Sledgehog]

Methinks you should wait til that vodka wears off to both work on your car and post on these forums.

 

[Mongoose]

Methinks you should wait til that vodka wears off to both work on your car and post on these forums.

Yeah not drunk...just pissed. .030”-.050” would allow the MIP drivers to work. Break them loose with a regular wrench and then you can get the MIP’s to work.

 

[Mongoose]

Only problem with that is you can’t break them loose.

 

[Sledgehog]

Prob due to the loctite used. Heating them up a bit would help.

 

[razorrc]

Well, you could've been like me and popped the driveshaft off the outdrive before you figured out the hex driver thing. Those ears are basically impossible to put back on if you somehow are able to take them off. Pretty sure I broke 2 fingers and became double-jointed on the rest after putting it back on.

Just need a longer hex driver, the MIPs are too short. I use an Associated 2mm.

 

[Mongoose]

No, luckily I watched your video first @razorrc lol. Once I saw your video I tried the regular L-wrench. i finally broke one loose and backed it out about .030” and could get my MIP in there and run it the rest of the way but it about tore my finger up because you just can’t get any leverage. I drilled the other side out but since I couldnt see in there I reamed the screw clamping face as well.

Beginners usually only have L-wrenches....they need to fix this. .030” off the length of the ID driveshaft won’t kill it....if anything else put the .030” back on the OD driveshaft

 

[Mongoose]

@Sledgehog there really is no way of safely heating it.

 

[Megasty]

I really hate that they didn't use a 12.9 2.5mm hex bolt instead of that pathetic 10.9 screw. I've stripped that screw twice & both times I needed to disassemble the driveshaft, take a dremel with a large cut-off wheel to make a slot in the head, then use pliers & a flat head to unscrew the mess. A 2.5mm driver will fit & I have never stripped the hex head of a 2.5mm bolt in the 2+ decades I've been in this hobby.

 

[bicketybam]

Well, you could've been like me and popped the driveshaft off the outdrive before you figured out the hex driver thing. Those ears are basically impossible to put back on if you somehow are able to take them off. Pretty sure I broke 2 fingers and became double-jointed on the rest after putting it back on.

Just need a longer hex driver, the MIPs are too short. I use an Associated 2mm.

We're you able to get it back on (when you disassembled the driveshaft)? I've tried several times and just gave up.

 

[TraverseCity420]

Oh and to make matters worse I just finished the rest of the Vodka in the house

Now that's a travesty Cmon on over I have a medium collection of tequila I can share

 

[bicketybam]

Oh and to make matters worse I just finished the rest of the Vodka in the house

 

[Mongoose]

I really hate that they didn't use a 12.9 2.5mm hex bolt instead of that pathetic 10.9 screw. I've stripped that screw twice & both times I needed to disassemble the driveshaft, take a dremel with a large cut-off wheel to make a slot in the head, then use pliers & a flat head to unscrew the mess. A 2.5mm driver will fit & I have never stripped the hex head of a 2.5mm bolt in the 2+ decades I've been in this hobby.

Do you have any pointers for getting the pins out of the yoke without destroying or deforming them?

 

[Megasty]

Do you have any pointers for getting the pins out of the yoke without destroying or deforming them?

I used needle nosed pliers to slightly wedge the yoke enough to get the pins in. Of course you need to hold the shaft & pliers with the same hand or use a small vice.

 

[Mongoose]

Thanks @Megasty do you know if the screws come with new driveshafts?

 

[razorrc]

We're you able to get it back on (when you disassembled the driveshaft)? I've tried several times and just gave up.

Yeah, I basically just bent the ear out of shape a ton so it was like 60 degrees to the side, pushed it, and then bent back into shape as much as possible.

 

[Slim69782003]

We're you able to get it back on (when you disassembled the driveshaft)? I've tried several times and just gave up.

I was able to get my dryve shafts back together after taking them apart... I don't think I even fought as hard getting them apart as you guys did... I just put a small juelers screw driver into the u-joint socket parallel with the axle shaft and bent the axle along with the screw driver to get it a apart... Then did the oposite to put it back together... No deformed parts.

 

[Mongoose]

Ok, just ordered 100 M3x8mm and M3x10mm FHCS with a 2mm T-Handle (6.00” shaft) from McMaster for $12.