K8s upgrade. toe rear diff. motor. esc

[Latemodel80]

Hey everyone. I have been looking for upgrades for the Kraton 8s. I have had it for a little less than a year now still. I keep looking at it and keep wondering why the rear is toed in soo much. I just came across a metal rear toe kit thing on ebay. curious if anyone has seen or even got it and how it is. If you have seen some of my older post... My Kraton has been hit and miss. Got the rear snap ring that wants to keep releasing and let the bearing pop out. Still not happy with how the Horizon Rep is wanting to tell me to deal with it.... but still. I love the truck. I keep looking at the motor upgrades for it. I know when I do upgrade it... Ill have to end up doing everything. ESC Controller. motor. steering servo. Get it all done so no worries after that on poop failing. I am looking at doing one of them light kits for the truck. don't mind taking it out at night since im able to. I still have not had the time to mess with the rear pinion, getting the groove a little deeper and see if that snap ring will hold better. I don't mind tearing into the truck and working on it to get it up to what I want it to be. Im still looking for the motor or motors and bracket upgrade for multiple.

 

[SrC]

Rear Toe-IN is normal and actually makes the rig more stable. Gets you more directional stability in loose terrain. I believe 3 degrees Toe-In is common for most any RC Off road rig.
Don't let that bother you with Off Road rigs. With Speed runners it is more common to reduce this or make it Zero Toe-In. But usually for advanced very high speed runners tryig to squeak out another MPH. Zero Toe is much harder to control with technical types of driving. Toe-In doesn't really scrub off much speed at all, contrary to some beliefs.

 

[Latemodel80]

Rear Toe-IN is normal and actually makes the rig more stable. Gets you more directional stability in loose terrain. I believe 3 degrees Toe-In is common for most ay RC Off road rig.
Don't let that bother you with Off Rad rigs. With Speed runners it is more common to reduce this or make it Zero Toe-In. But usually for advanced very high speed runners.

It just looks like a good amount. I have not really had the time to look into how much toe in it actually has. I do rotate the tires so I can get more time out of them. Hopefully. Haha.. still running the OE tires that came on it. I know toe in makes them more stable. Just looks like a lot while running on road and seeing tires look how they do.

 

[SrC]

2-3 degrees rear wheel Toe-In is not alot. And even full scale cars have rear Toe-In. Look closely at your own scale car next time. It is there, part of the normal wheel alignment. This for modern scale cars with independant rear suspensions. Not Live straight rear axle setups. Toe-In provides good traction and steering especially in the loose stuff. I remember making my OG RC10T Zero toe-In many years ago. It sucked. With No advantage. Just Hard to drive. Always need some Toe-In at the rear. Most RC's are always set to 3 degrees. Easily measured with a Protractor. With wheels off and on a flat surface, measure the angle of the rear hubs. Try measuring yours. I bet it comes in at aprox 3 degrees. If the chassis or Hinge pins are bent, Toe-In will be uneven, L-R, That is no good. Look into that. This happens. If you are getting uneven tread wear at the rear, 99% of the time your rear Camber is way off. Camber and all wheel aligning is done with the rig in full running weight condition. Lip in place and Body on. Otherwise you will never get it right.

Edited

 

[Latemodel80]

2-3 degrees rear wheel Toe-In is not alot. And even full scale cars have rear Toe-In. Look closely at you own scale car next time. It is there, part of the normal wheel alignment. This for modern scale cars with independant rear suspensions. Not Live straight rear axle setups.

I work on vehicles for living. Just looking at the rear tires while running on road. It just looks strange. How the sidewall on the inside is more away from the outer edge of the rim more to speak.

 

[SrC]

Yes it looks odd. Especially with large Oversized MT RC tires. Rear Toe-In is Normal for RC's, going back 35+ years.
I was a Dealer Toyota Tech for 8+ years. I also know how to use a Hunter Aligner Rack. In the Auto Industry for a good 15+ years.

 

[Latemodel80]

Yes it looks odd. Rear Toe-In is Normal for RC's, going back 35+ years.
I was a Dealer Toyota Tech for 8+ years. I also know how to use a Hunter Aligner Rack.

The good ol Hunter Aligner machines. I’m tryin to get them to update ours with a new machine.
I try to keep the tires on my RC rotated so I can get wear good on them. Like full scale cars. I ran 1/10th scales back in 05/06. Good ol TC-3 and TC-4 days lol.. pan cars.

 

[SrC]

I find many racks to need calibrationg often. Or your car ends up all jacked up, worse off.. I seen a rack make a car dog walk after they were finished. Drove like crap at 30MPH. Undriveable. Even though the printout showed within spec. It gets expensive for the shops. Hunter bends you $over$ for service. . Someimes 3-4 times a year neede. Manyshops just ppass off poor alignemnts to tye customer. They get 4150. on averaf here for one. Hard to find a good place around here. I will do a manual Fr Toe-in on my cars here and there.. That's about all I can do.

Loved my TC3. i hated the steering rack design though. AE changed that eventually. Carpet from 2000-2002. Then the track closed.
Started in Dirt racing. But they closed after 7 years.

 

[Latemodel80]

I find many racks to need calibrationg often. Or your car ends up all jacked up, worse off.. I seen a rack make a car dog walk after they were finished. Drove like crap at 30MPH. Undriveable. Even though the printout showed within spec. It gets expensive for the shops. Hunter bends you $over$ for service. . Someimes 3-4 times a year neede. Manyshops just ppass off poor alignemnts to tye customer. They get 4150. on averaf here for one. Hard to find a good place around here. I will do a manual Fr Toe-in on my cars here and there.. That's about all I can do.

Loved my TC3. Carpet from 2000-2002. Then the track closed.
Started in Dirt racing. But they closed after 7 years.

Place I’m at keep saying once one of the heads breaks we get updated for the rack. Nobody has the balls to do it. I’m like I’m good. Lol… got the ol rim clamp head mounts. The clips keep coming up missing and crap. I’m like I’m not messing with this cuz I don’t get paid enough to keep finding these things. All over the floor. Across shop not even close to that rack. I do alot of anything and everything that come in the shop..

I miss my TC-4. Had it dialed in perfect for how I ran it. Carpet was life. Met alot of great ppl when we had our track around 05ish.

 

[stock20]

Camber and all wheel aligning is done with the rig in full running weight condition. Lip in place and Body on. Otherwise you will never get it right.

Man do I wish I'd had this advice earlier.
Spent a good chunk of time getting it juuuussst perfect on the bench with wheels just hanging there. Then I set it down and reality slapped me.

 

[Latemodel80]

Man do I wish I'd had this advice earlier.
Spent a good chunk of time getting it juuuussst perfect on the bench with wheels just hanging there. Then I set it down and reality slapped me.

Hell. When we had the Carpet track. The guys would have one person lay on the track to see/hear if anything dragging