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Have you checked wheel bearings and is it threadlocked in?I have a arrma Granite v2. The rear axle keeps separating at the differential. I've replaced axles, changed diff fluid, checked bearings. Im not sure why this keeps happening. HELP!
+1 Loctite is your friendHave you checked wheel bearings and is it threadlocked in?
Its coming apart at the U joint at full power. I should have explained better.You should clean up the diff outdrive with a little rubbing alcohol to get the grease off, then threadlock the little screw inside the driveshaft before you attach to the diff outdrive and screw in.
Drive shaft has been replaced twice. Slipper is new but I could check it. I went to a lighter diff fluid thinking that might be part of the problem still happening. Im going to replace all the bearings rear a-arms and driveshafts. See if that works.Ah, once that happens (normally bad landing on throttle, slipper too tight or punch too high) it will keep happening - needs a new driveshaft. If you swap them side to side so the drive is in the opposite direction you can sometimes get a bit more life out of them.
Grass driving no jumpingHate to be the one to say it but if all the bearings are ok and the drive chain spins smooth by hand with the motor removed then these failures tend to relate to driving style especially if you're on high grip surfaces. Most commonly they are from landing either on the throttle/brake or with the wheels spinning crazy fast. I also went through a set on my BRCC because the slipper was too tight (locked down hard) from the factory - wheelied great until this happened.
Sounds like slipper too tight then (assuming stock ESC punch), or doing sharp "handbrake style" turns with sharp throttle inputs can be very similar to landing on throttle - wheels trying to do one thing based on grip with the ground, motor asking it to do the opposite. (Although a stock granite would likely rollover if you tried to do that) Dry grass can be a deceptively grippy surface especially with the stock granite tyres. The BRCC tyres are less aggressive and for my senton I actually use buggy wheels with hardly any tread when on dry grass to get it sliding. I've also built a habit of not pulling away hard from standstill, a short rolling start in much kinder on the drive chain.Grass driving no jumping
No I don't use wd-40 might be excece grease. Suspension isn't to soft or too hard. Same set-up ive ran for a year now.Do you blast everything with WD-40 or something? Cuz that will soften your plastics, and you don't want those U-joints flexing. The reason I say this is because of the layer of crap in your pic...looks like it's sticking to something. Another longshot idea is that your suspension is outta whack tension wise and you're prying the joint out because of this.
We'll, if your grease ain't polyglycol or ester based that rules that out. I'm with other posters above then, it's a torque problem...No I don't use wd-40 might be excece grease. Suspension isn't to soft or too hard. Same set-up ive ran for a year now.
I just pulled apart my granite and was looking at the driveshaft differential connection. You answered the question on top of my mind, lock tite needed there just like at the wheel. Thanks!You should clean up the diff outdrive with a little rubbing alcohol to get the grease off, then threadlock the little screw inside the driveshaft before you attach to the diff outdrive and screw in.
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