Vorteks Keep destroying rear diff with a particular set of (heavier) tyres.

[Cypher]

Hey people, I thought I owe you a post portem. I did put in some effort (and m$$$$ney) and ordered all the metal parts possible for the car to keep up. I also speak to a friend and we ll see how could we produce some metal parts ourselves(whole another story).

For now I ordered full cnc rear diff, the separate metal parts for that too(to send off to my friend to make cad models of them), metal spur gear.

I will upgrade the car in full and put back the tires and just send it.

Happy to break the metal diff, the gears, pinion, motor or whatever. (Looking at the 4s cars tho, they use these exact same metal items by defaulg )


Edit. Jesus Christ, maybe it would just be better to send all these back and just straight buy a 4S car ?

Anyway, here:

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I did the same on my granite mega, spent a small fortune converting it to brushless. But, man. It was so worth it whatever puts a smile on your face

 

[bukshypro]

I did the same on my granite mega, spent a small fortune converting it to brushless. But, man. It was so worth it whatever puts a smile on your face

This was 3s blx but ehh

 

[bukshypro]

hello darkness, my old friend

 

[SrC]

Hey people, I thought I owe you a post portem. I did put in some effort (and m$$$$ney) and ordered all the metal parts possible for the car to keep up. I also speak to a friend and we ll see how could we produce some metal parts ourselves(whole another story).

For now I ordered full cnc rear diff, the separate metal parts for that too(to send off to my friend to make cad models of them), metal spur gear.

I will upgrade the car in full and put back the tires and just send it.

Happy to break the metal diff, the gears, pinion, motor or whatever. (Looking at the 4s cars tho, they use these exact same metal items by defaulg )


Edit. Jesus Christ, maybe it would just be better to send all these back and just straight buy a 4S car ?

Anyway, here:

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Send it all back..... and get a 6s rig.

 

[RadioHacktive]

hello darkness, my old friend

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That bevel gear looks like it got the literal tar beaten out of it. I'm no expert, but I'm pretty sure it's not supposed to look like that. Ack ...

 

[bukshypro]

Send it all back..... and get a 6s rig.

Maybe the solution is to buy a 4-6S rig and run it on 3S :/ I am at this point pretty much even w cars cost vs repair cost. But its fun and I almost know the Vorteks inside out at this point. So im happy. Will be super expert when I ll be building my MST drift and Schumacher Icon 2 and Mission FT rigs.

That bevel gear looks like it got the literal tar beaten out of it. I'm no expert, but I'm pretty sure it's not supposed to look like that. Ack ...

I think its very simple. Tires are too heavy, punch was 3 or 4, timing lowered and we were doing full throttles in grass(a bit wet, even). The input gear could not keep up w the motor while the tires were not rotating as fast. I even noticed a bit of pull on the driveshafts too.

Lets see when I put in metal stuff, will it be able to deliver the power into the tires or not
Also, I wonder if those little things are signs of heat inside the yoke?

 

[SrC]

Running most any 6s rig on 4s, and you will have one pretty durable rig, drivetrain and all. My TLRT Typhon Roller is setup with an XR8 Plus sensored setup. It exclusively runs 4s packs. A rocket. And at 58mph is plenty fast for my TLRT just bashing around.. Just me.

 

[bukshypro]

Run most any 6s rig on 4s, and you will have one pretty durable rig, drivetrain and all. My TLRT Typhon Roller is setup with an XR8 Plus sensored setup. It exclusively runs 4s packs. A rocket. And at 58mph is plenty fast for my TLRT just bashing around.. Just me.

mmmmm, my only 2 things I want from this Arrma tracks is to wheelie and ability to efficiently backflip/frontflip. Does that still work when the power is that much lower?

 

[SrC]

If you want all that Big Air freestyle stunt driving, Wheelies and standing backflips etc, you will always be behind the 8 Ball, durability wise. And you Need power for all that.
To Play hard, you need to Pay hard.

 

[bukshypro]

If you want all that Big Air freestyle stunt driving, Wheelies and standing backflips etc, you will always be behind the 8 Ball, durability wise. And you Need power for all that.
To Play hard, you need to Pay hard.

I don't want standing backflips, I want to be able to do backflips better than the stock Vorteks tires. I mentioned standing backflips recently because the car had so much torque and so little initial move forward with these heavy JetKo s that it was able to stand backflip

 

[SrC]

I admire your perseverance. All about having fun.

 

[bukshypro]

I admire your perseverance. All about having fun.

Haha. At this point I don't care what I break, I will go as far possible to make it durable for what I do. At some points my american express and current account combo might tell me to just go for lighter tires, but for now I keep pushing

 

[SrC]

There will always be the common parts that wear out or break, whether from Driver error or simply wear.
But since we all drive differently, just enjoy your driving style, and you will find what parts you need more than others.
As you develope your driving skills better, you will also see which parts won't be an issue as much any more.
You will find the limits of your rig. And realize where that limit is.
All RC's will break, no matter how much $$$ you throw at it. Your wallet knows best.

 

[bukshypro]

Thanks for your continuous support! This community here is absolutely amazing! I feel so welcomed and safe to ask all the time!

 

[Velodromed]

hello darkness, my old friend

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Bummer. The ring/input gear mesh wasn’t tight enough. It needs to be tight to the point that there is no play but you can still turn it easily.

 

[bukshypro]

Bummer. The ring/input gear mesh wasn’t tight enough. It needs to be tight to the point that there is no play but you can still turn it easily.

I checked not long ago and re-greased it a bit and it was super tight. I believe if head adds up inside, and the yoke flexes, it might loosen the mesh.
look how it broke off the teeth, this was crazy torque imo

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/⭐-what-did-you-break-today-hall-of-fame⭐.46256/post-862843

 

[Velodromed]

I checked not long ago and re-greased it a bit and it was super tight. I believe if head adds up inside, and the yoke flexes, it might loosen the mesh.
look how it broke off the teeth, this was crazy torque imo

https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/⭐-what-did-you-break-today-hall-of-fame⭐.46256/post-862843

Yup, That’s exactly what happens with the plastic yolk. Which is why I like a metal one in the rear diff on my 3s cars. I put them both front and back on my 4s cars.

 

[1999fd]

Send it all back..... and get a 6s rig.

Agreed!!!! That was my mistake. Lost 700€ on my 3s truck. Could have bought a 6s rig with upgrades

 

[utvbroz]

I started to backflip my vorteks 3s. Got a 6s notorious on Black Friday. It will backflip your mind the difference between the two.

 

[parcou]

Maybe the solution is to buy a 4-6S rig and run it on 3S :/ I am at this point pretty much even w cars cost vs repair cost. But its fun and I almost know the Vorteks inside out at this point. So im happy. Will be super expert when I ll be building my MST drift and Schumacher Icon 2 and Mission FT rigs.

SrC and others summed up what I would have posted. Just watch your AMEX it is a rabbit hole before seeing the real light on a 4-6S rig and keeping that one 3S

Keep in mind on this rig even when you get the diff/yoke/input gear etc the way you like, that stress will travel. Right to the drivetrain and snap axles, and you might come back looking for the expensive 3S CVDs for this rig.... Then something else. It goes on, on.

Best of luck with your venture, my friend