Granite Keep popping rear drive shafts off

[AirBoone]

After putting the typhon length arms on my granite yesterday I didn't have any problems with it popping off anymore. I'm driving them in grass and doing double backflips with some hard landings sometimes so I'm being pretty rough on them I guess. I've never popped a shaft on the typhon though, only the Granite. I was thinking the shorter granite arms have the shafts almost bottomed out so with real hard jarring they don't have room to compress passed just popping at the joint. The longer Typhon arms make it impossible for the shaft to bottom out so it was my assumption that was why the typhon never pops a shaft. Either way putting the longer arms on the Granite is Awesome, I think I like it more than my typhon now. It looks cool and drives way better now!

 

[razorrc]

In my opinion and i think i'm not alone with that. Must issues like popped driveshafts, stripped gears and so on all proceed from to tight slipper clutches.

Yup. And people put earplugs and 20M wt. oil in their 6S diffs and wonder why their diffs explode. If you lock down the drivetrain with no give in it, then parts are going to break.

 

[Gears&Beers]

I just bought a BRV3 and got about 6 minutes of play time before my right rear outboard cv joint pin came out... new to arrma and loved the first 6 minutes... but alittle discouraged the more and more I read on here about diffs and axles. Is it worth buying the aftermarket cnc axles and gear or are the having problems too?

 

[AirBoone]

I just bought a BRV3 and got about 6 minutes of play time before my right rear outboard cv joint pin came out... new to arrma and loved the first 6 minutes... but alittle discouraged the more and more I read on here about diffs and axles. Is it worth buying the aftermarket cnc axles and gear or are the having problems too?

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Mine kept popping on diff side, I did the chat on the horizon website and they sent me a new set of rear axles (ARA310864) in just a couple days, I put the wider typhon arms on my granite and haven't popped one since. I think the Big Rock already has the typhon length arms though. If that's the case then your Slipper Clutch is probably a hair too tight. I Love my Granite now that it's wide as much or more than my typhon with trenchers on it!

 

[Gears&Beers]

Big thanks for the tip from NC and quick response. Great fourm community.I love this thing and hope that having it a tad looser fixes it. I will see when my new axles come in.

 

[AirBoone]

Mine kept popping on diff side, I did the chat on the horizon website and they sent me a new set of rear axles (ARA310864) in just a couple days, I put the wider typhon arms on my granite and haven't popped one since. I think the Big Rock already has the typhon length arms though. If that's the case then your Slipper Clutch is probably a hair too tight. I Love my Granite now that it's wide as much or more than my typhon with trenchers on it!

If you

Big thanks for the tip from NC and quick response. Great fourm community.I love this thing and hope that having it a tad looser fixes it. I will see when my new axles come in.

Yeah this Arrma Community is awesome, I'm new here and still need to.upload my car pics and stuff on my profile! If you found the half shaft, look on YouTube to see how to pop it back in, don't spread the sides apart to do it, that will weaken it. If it's lost then I guess you are stuck waiting. Hopefully horizon will warranty a set for you like they did for me, if not and you have to buy them then look into the metal GPM ones on ebay, they are like $35 instead of $20 but they don't come all the way apart like the sliding half shaft type do.

 

[Gears&Beers]

Have you had any luck with the GPM axles?! They are sending me new axle set but I don't want to worry that they are gonna break again and stop my bashing time up.

 

[AirBoone]

Have you had any luck with the GPM axles?! They are sending me new axle set but I don't want to worry that they are gonna break again and stop my bashing time up.

I haven't tried them, somewhere in this thread a guy was saying he used them and they are great. I looked at them and they are made just like the metal traxxas ones I have on my redcat volcano which can't come apart like the half shafts are made too, so I am assuming they would solve your problem because of how they are made. You'll have one extra plastic one when they send you the replacement set though and, I only ever hear of the back right shafts popping on these cars so I guess it's just a torque issue. I bash both mine hard and try to fly them like air planes and haven't had any axle problems on typhon and none on granite since changing the arms so just loosening your slipper a hair will probably solve your problem completely and you won't need the metal ones.

 

[Jammer339]

I'm having the same exact issue, finally sheared it off this last time. My truck is only two weeks old. I have a typhon too, their running gear is identical and the typhon doesn't do this so I am going to put typhon a-arms on the Granite and make it wider. I'm thinking stretching the axles out with the wider arms may give it just enough flex to not pop the axle off anymore. They are both a blast to play with. It costs about $45 to get the RPM arms and the six 48mm turnbuckles on Amazon but that's nothing in the blackhole money pit of RC

How did this work out ? I'm planning on putting typhon rpm arms on my Granite.

 

[Velodromed]

How did this work out ? I'm planning on putting typhon rpm arms on my Granite.

It’s an old thread and that guy has not been around awhile. However, I just finally put typhon arms on my granite after 2+ years and love it. I’d already done that to my vorteks awhile back so knew it would work, but it’s even nicer then I expected. You just need typhon/big rock arms and turnbuckles. That’s all. Jennysrc.com has stock parts pretty cheap.

I prefer stock arms, at least on the rear. rpm arms warp badly and the stock ones are plenty strong. The front ones don’t warp quite as bad so sometimes I’ll run them there since the front arms take the most hits usually. You can pull them off and flip them side to side or boil them and press flat also.

As for popping axles, that’s a combination of driving bad habits and to tight a slipper clutch.

 

[Jammer339]

It’s an old thread and that guy has not been around awhile. However, I just finally put typhon arms on my granite after 2+ years and love it. I’d already done that to my vorteks awhile back so knew it would work, but it’s even nicer then I expected. You just need typhon/big rock arms and turnbuckles. That’s all. Jennysrc.com has stock parts pretty cheap.

I prefer stock arms, at least on the rear. rpm arms warp badly and the stock ones are plenty strong. The front ones don’t warp quite as bad so sometimes I’ll run them there since the front arms take the most hits usually. You can pull them off and flip them side to side or boil them and press flat also.

As for popping axles, that’s a combination of driving bad habits and to tight a slipper clutch.

Thanks for the reply. Useful to know that stock is stronger than the aftermarket ones.. Will bear that in mind. Getting that slipper right is my biggest concern. I've seen lots of contradicting statements about how tight or slack it should be.

 

[Velodromed]

Thanks for the reply. Useful to know that stock is stronger than the aftermarket ones.. Will bear that in mind. Getting that slipper right is my biggest concern. I've seen lots of contradicting statements about how tight or slack it should be.

RPM arms are definitely flexible. That’s why they work on the front, especially for hard wheel hits. I just got sick of them warping. Also my driving skills improved enough that I didn’t need to worry about it as much.

I hand tighten the slipper until I feel the slightest bit of resistance. Then I tighten it a tiny bit more and throw it in the car and test it. It’s easy to further adjust it while it’s in the car by pulling the driveshaft and running a 2mm driver up the hub.

I would rather the slipper be a little bit loose then too tight. Slipper pads are cheap and they’re also easy to sand (wear a mask though!). It’s also a good idea to keep it a touch loose when you’re learning how to drive also. Typically, learning to drive includes a hard throttle finger lol.

 

[Jammer339]

RPM arms are definitely flexible. That’s why they work on the front, especially for hard wheel hits. I just got sick of them warping. Also my driving skills improved enough that I didn’t need to worry about it as much.

I hand tighten the slipper until I feel the slightest bit of resistance. Then I tighten it a tiny bit more and throw it in the car and test it. It’s easy to further adjust it while it’s in the car by pulling the driveshaft and running a 2mm driver up the hub.

I would rather the slipper be a little bit loose then too tight. Slipper pads are cheap and they’re also easy to sand (wear a mask though!). It’s also a good idea to keep it a touch loose when you’re learning how to drive also. Typically, learning to drive includes a hard throttle finger lol.

OK thank you. Why would you sand the slipper pads?
Slightly off topic but do you cover the slot with for the spur gear or do you make a hole in the chassis to get rid of the dirt? Again I've read that people do either or sometimes both.

 

[Velodromed]

OK thank you. Why would you sand the slipper pads?
Slightly off topic but do you cover the slot with for the spur gear or do you make a hole in the chassis to get rid of the dirt? Again I've read that people do either or sometimes both.

The slipper pads can become glazed after a while, and do not work as well. Especially if running them a little bit loose, as I tend to do with my cars that have stock drive shafts and differentials. It’s cheaper to replace slipper pads then it is drive shafts and differentials.

I drilled a hole in one chassis of my 3s cars 2 years ago and just as much stuff still gets underneath it, so I never bothered to drill the others. The key thing is to clean and maintain it regularly. I try to open the spur cases every 2-3 weeks and clean it out. On the two cars that I have M2C mounts/brace hardly anything gets underneath, so I don’t service those quite as much. It is a pricey upgrade at 75 bucks each or so. I only have them on my two, 4s builds. On my 3S powered cars I like the new Arrma 6mm mount, which comes on the 3s infraction, vendetta, and 4s outcast/kraton.

One big reason you want to keep clean underneath the spur case is so that don’t get dust inside the motor bearings. Aside from stuff that gets underneath the spare case. There is also dust generated by the composite spur and the case itself. To help stop it from getting in the motor I put an o-ring around the motor shaft beneath the pinion, up against the base of the shaft. I use o-rings that fit inside that recessed area and put a little o-ring grease underneath it. I also put pieces of tape on all the mounting holes that are not used. I like electrical tape because it’s thin.

I get new motor mounts them off of jennyrc.com a for about 22 bucks and it includes a new spurcase case, heat sink and fan as well. You can get them online or at the hobby shop for around 22 bucks also, for the mount only. Really have to be careful though and make sure you get the new one and not the old one by accident. The old ones are only 5mm and bend pretty easy. The hot racing mount also bends as easily as the old stock mount.

The key thing about shopping at jennys is postage. Minimum postage is about six bucks. Whenever I shop there I get as much as I can to maximize postage. Typically I can get four or five things for that six bucks and if I get more it jumps up to 12 bucks. Larger things cost more as well. Their prices are so good on most parts that it’s worth it.

You can be as off-topic as you want (I’m all over the place typically) and ask any questions that come to mind. It’s all good. Doesn’t matter if the questions seem silly, that’s how we all learn. Worst case scenario is we might laugh at you a little bit… but you will still get the answer
https://jennysrc.com/collections/kr...uminum-motor-mount-set-heatsink-fan-ara4408v2