Kraton Kevin's Kraton 6s EXB v2 Build Thread

[954kevin]

I guess every build starts somewhere.... I Run Basher Bodies shells on a bunch of my bashers, but I'm still mulling over the options/not sure how well the Kraton body holds up. So, I did a little reinforcing and adding a couple roof skids. I thought I would put some up front, but the body clips seem to either be right in the way, or the highest thing protruding. I did order a pack of the Arrma single bolt body post protectors and will install a couple of those up front at least. Scorched RC stuff is currently stuck in customs, but this is a start!

I have used the drywall fiber tape and E6000 to reinforce previous bodies with ok results. What typically happens is the fibertape and E6000 begins to delaminate from the body and things break anyway. I thought I would try a little T-Rex tape in a couple strategic spots. I'm skeptical here as well, but we'll see how it goes I guess.

Happy Thanksgiving to all!

 

[Jluther@becoinc]

The vehicle around the body looks like a Traxxas?

 

[954kevin]

The vehicle around the body looks like a Traxxas?

X Maxx! I have all the Traxxas bashers. This 6s EXB is my first Arrma!

 

[blaster27]

Looks good to me.

 

[blaster27]

I have a traxxas or 2. .

 

[954kevin]

My big brother and sister in-law came to stay the night and he brought his Rustler that needed a couple little tweaks. I had previously applied T-Rex tape to his shell and forgotten about it. The Rustler bodies don't seem to take a huge beating, but the tape was kind of falling off and tattered looking.

Anyway, I changed my mind on this Kraton body and pulled the tape off to exchange it for good ole fiber tape and e6000. Still need to apply the glue, but that stuff is like industrial levels of toxic odor and didn't want to run everyone out of the garage tonight.

I have found that if you overlap the fiber tape by much at all, it tends to negatively effect how well the whole shebang sticks to the body.

I'm trying to keep a single layer in the most crucial spots. I'll do my best to get an even layer of glue worked over the fiber tape where you see it, avoiding the spots where it doesn't have much return.

 

[Barmaleus]

Fiber tape + glue is the way to go! I was lazy with my first proper basher (Kraton 4s) and used gorilla tape inside. Did not help much - cracked the body. After that strengthened it properly and it's been holding really well!

I'd also suggest applying rubber edge protection. Something like this: https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Protection-Rubber-Profile-Windows-Panels/dp/B0CSG5XVW8?th=1
This idea was suggested by a guy in a YT video... forgot the channel name. He has a lot of cool ideas to make stuff bulletproof =)

 

[954kevin]

I've mainly been focused on laying down the glue today, but wanted to add some hard parts to the chassis while the glue dries...

I want to give HUGE shout-out to Tyson over at Garage lIfe RC. I have placed a couple orders and on my most recent order I wanted to pick up the TPU front bumper spring and a pair of rear mud guards. I mistakenly ordered the bumper spring and a set of the shock protectors. I realised my mistake pretty quickly and sent over an email asking to swap the shock covers for the guards(same price). Tyson was quick to respond saying " I have you covered," on Thanksgiving day no less. Always thankful for responsive customer service and was happy he could accommodate my request.

So, when the package arrived I see he didn't exchange the parts... he threw in all three. The bumper spring, shock protectors AND the mud guards I wanted. Super awesome Tyson, thank you kindly!

I'm planning on pulling all the diffs and hinge pin carriers, so I don't really want to go crazy bolting on everything I have just to take it all back off again, but I did pull the front shocks off and installed the Garage Life shock covers(FREE stuff is my favorite kind of stuff) and the rear mud guards. I'm not sure if I'll put the rear shock protectors on. Seems kind of redundant with the guards in place.

The front two shocks were fairly low on oil. I've never messed with shocks that have a bleeder screw, but I assume you fill um up, open the screw and point the hole to the sky before compressing the shaft and reinstalling the screw. Filling them up all the way made a difference in their feel. There was this odd dead spot before where the shaft had a few mm in either direction with no resistance mid stroke. I opened them to be sure nothing was loose on the internals. I suppose the factory air gap was the culprit because everything inside was tight and in its place.

Just a couple pics of the shock covers, rear guards, and other stuff I have that still needs installed. Front and rear knuckles from Scorched RC should be here Monday.

 

[954kevin]

The results!

In the past, I have covered every inch of the interior with this stuff, but here I tried sticking to the spots where I thought it would need it most. Primarily focused on the hinge point along the front window down into the wheel well area where I doubled up the layers in two separate applications.

 

[954kevin]

Look at these beauties!

 

[Aqualungs]

Look at these beauties!

View attachment 402506View attachment 402507View attachment 402508View attachment 402509View attachment 402510View attachment 402511

I wanted these so bad.. I decided to stick with plastic for a bit and see how they hold up.. very nice!!

 

[954kevin]

Small update:

I think I spent close to $40 on body/roof skid plates. Some I used, some not. The set I had planned to use on the hood area to protect the body clips juts wouldn't work. I got these single plug deals and slapped 4 in that space I think will work pretty well. It's not much, I only had a few minutes to kick around in the garage tonight...

 

[954kevin]

This absolute unit arrived today!

 

[Aqualungs]

Look at these beauties!

View attachment 402506View attachment 402507View attachment 402508View attachment 402509View attachment 402510View attachment 402511

How you you feel about the open cap anf 3 bolts exposing the pillow balls vs the single larger pillow ball retainer nut that covers that area?

 

[Aqualungs]

This absolute unit arrived today! View attachment 402768View attachment 402769View attachment 402770

I have all SMC and they have been reliable. I have one that Is 9 years old. I tried CNHL this time around, but i think you will be happy

 

[954kevin]

How you you feel about the open cap anf 3 bolts exposing the pillow balls vs the single larger pillow ball retainer nut that covers that area?

To be honest, I don't have any strong feelings about that feature one way or the other yet. This is my first Arrma and I haven't installed the Scorched knuckles OR, even run the truck with the originals.

I think the Scorched look pretty damn nice and my hopes are that they function as nice as they look.

 

[954kevin]

I have all SMC and they have been reliable. I have one that Is 9 years old. I tried CNHL this time around, but i think you will be happy

I will probably buy one of the 70C CHNL packs to use as well. I have read that they are the best performing packs from CHNL?

 

[Aqualungs]

I will probably buy one of the 70C CHNL packs to use as well. I have read that they are the best performing packs from CHNL?

I picked up the 6s 6200 mah 90C Racing series. Can't wait to try em+

 

[Aqualungs]

To be honest, I don't have any strong feelings about that feature one way or the other yet. This is my first Arrma and I haven't installed the Scorched knuckles OR, even run the truck with the originals.

I think the Scorched look pretty damn nice and my hopes are that they function as nice as they look.

I bet there's a good reason for it.. my brain's just wondering and I need to humor it haha! I actually sent them an email asking lol.. I'll let you know what they say.. i know they deal in speed running so wondering if it was for weight and will gunk get in there for people who run in dirt.. i imagine it would shed it

 

[Aqualungs]

Hope i didn't come off the wrong way yesterday with the questions.. I took woke up yesterday morning thinking about the Scorched hubs lol.
So they got back to me on the design question:

"The original parts are open too, through the 5mm hex hole – and completely open on the inside face, which is unavoidable. Ours will wear much better since we have the slippy Delrin liners rather than the glass/mineral filled stock plastic parts."

Also asked if the +1 shafts would be ok with them:
"Yes, they will be ok. Our hubs are very slightly narrower than stock (to help solve the same problem) – just check the shafts don’t bottom out in the cups – if they do you can just add a washer under the pillow balls"