Kraton Kevin's Kraton 6s EXB v2 Build Thread

[Aqualungs]

I didn't realize it until teardown.. im used to traxxas arms held in by catch pins.. I also liked their replaceable delrin inserts.. gives them longevity. But yea I think they are the only manufacturer so far that allows you to remove the pins this way

 

[954kevin]

I'm not sure if this is a good idea, or something that's going to make a huge mess later on, but I installed some 3M PPF film to the chassis. I picked up a 8x48" piece for like $12. Hopefully, It'll do more good than harm. I figure for a few bucks an install, it might be worth it to keep things looking a little nicer.

I'll mention that I don't have any shelf queen rigs. I show zero mercy to my bashers, but I do also clean the hell out of them between. Car detailing is another hobby of mine and it translates to the scale models. I even put a 3 year ceramic coating on the body and wheels. lol If anything, it makes them a little easier to keep clean because dirt etc has a hard time sticking to ceramic coatings.

Anyway, here is a couple pics of the chassis post PPF install. I wasn't too concerned with small air bubbles etc. Plus, this was the first time I've ever touched PPF. It's far from perfect, but I'll be interested to see how this holds up.

 

[954kevin]

Some more body modifications! I decided to take @Barmaleus advice and trim the edges, but with a slightly different approach. I looked into this and a lot of users reported the self adhesive trim coming off under heavy bashing. I found a place called RC Body Armor that sells some pretty neat looking fiber tape to line the interior of bodies, but they also sell this small rubber edge trim. So, with those things as my inspiration. I dug around on AliExpress and found some thin edging.

It's a three or four step process. I carefully measured and mitered the turns using IC2000 to hold the joints. Then I injected a heavy bead of E6000 under the trims interior edge and used those paper clip thingies to clamp everything down while the glue cured. I'm going to go back through on the exterior flap with Bob Smith Industries IC2000 for the final stage with another round of clamping. Hopefully, this isn't a big waste of effort! If it comes off, it's gonna look terrible.

​

 

[Barmaleus]

@954kevin Whoa, looks fantastic! I kinda do it quick and dirty Let us know how it holds up!
My edges are rough. Yours are super precise, well done!

 

[954kevin]

@954kevin Whoa, looks fantastic! I kinda do it quick and dirty Let us know how it holds up!
My edges are rough. Yours are super precise, well done!

View attachment 410660

View attachment 410662

I mean, that's exactly what I should have done, quick n dirty. Do you find the trim being on there helps much? I guess I'm a little skeptical!

 

[Barmaleus]

@954kevin Beginning of last year I got a Kraton 4s v2.5 and pretty quickly had a nasty crack (see top right of the photo). Was hoping gorilla tape helps. Naive =)
Then I did the drywall tape/glue stuff + slapped the rubber edge on. Bashed the whole season with no new body issues. So, in my experience, it helped to keep the body intact. Though I must say I don't do high jumps of several+ meters. Mostly surface bashing, maybe with 1m high jumps or so. But I did have some nasty crashes with that trimmed body (with Kraton 4s). Holds up fine so far

 

[Barmaleus]

Forgot to add the photo (of the crack)

 

[954kevin]

Forgot to add the photo (of the crack)

View attachment 410674

lolol I spent five minutes looking for the crack on you v6 and trying to figure out where the v2.5 was in the pictures!

 

[Barmaleus]

Sorry

 

[blaster27]

Front right quarter panel? I cant find it. .

 

[Aqualungs]

Looks pretty clean! I may try it one of these times! Ive been doing drywall tape and shoe goo and it always makes my bodies last years.. by that time I am ready for a new body and paint!
I like how the trim gives it a "fender flare look

 

[Barmaleus]

Front right quarter panel? I cant find it. .

Riiight here Goes all the way to the wheel arch

 

[Barmaleus]

Found a better shot

 

[954kevin]

Today's effort were to rebuild the center diff with the metal case and switch it up to open config. Initially, I bought the OEM spacer kit to accomplish this task and stumbled on a thread mentioning a better way. So, instead of the OEM open diff shim kit, I used two of the LSD plates without ear to bolster the pin crosses of the sun gears on either end. I used shims to gain the thickness I needed and threw in another .005" accumulatively to ensure a good tight fit.

I also replaced the undersized OEM cross pins with a set from RamJam Racing. The slightly thicker pins further eliminate some of the slop the OEM pins allowed. I topped everything off with 500k diff fluid.

I also threw in the 16 tooth pinion while I was in there.

I have a little bit of a head scratcher though... So, with the center diff top off, I can grab the wheel hexes and turn the motor over by twisting them pretty easily. As soon as I install the center diff top, it becomes significantly harder to turn the wheel hexes by hand. I can't figure it out. I can see light between the center diff housing and the diff on both sides with the top on. The new metal cases are very close to touching the center diff mount, but there is a sliver of light, indicating clearance, at all times in the center diff's rotation. It's not touching anywhere but the bearings. Yet, it becomes harder to turn with the top installed. It's still movable by hand, just more difficult. I can't find anything pinching or binding or touching that shouldn't be. I think I'll probably just run it and hope it "breaks in."

I've got two more diffs to rebuild, if anyone needs some of the LSD shims w/ears, I know a guy!

 

[954kevin]

That's the front end all buttoned up... Rebuilt the front diff similar to the center with the non-eared LSD shims and metal case. The dif was shimmed pretty well inside the bulkhead from the factory. There is a little lash between the pinion and ring, but even adding .01mm shim behind the pinion gave a tight spot where it was rubbing the diff case. I was able to squeeze in an additional .2mm shim on the ring gear side bearing in the bulkhead, but there is no room beyond that. So, it's as good as it can be. Also installed M2C diff cups while I was in there.

I was able to finally install the M2C driveshafts along with the Scorched RC knuckles. I'm not quite sure how I feel about them yet, but installed a set of +10mm hexes from ADU racing. They are a little different than others in that they have grub screws that caps and capture the cross pins. It kind of feels like something that might become an issue later down the road when it comes time to remove them. We shall see I suppose. I do like the nice deep hex portion of these extensions. The more meat inside the wheel's hex space the better really.

Just the rear to finish up now and I think I'm done with this dude.

 

[954kevin]

This post concludes my 6s Kraton EXB build.

I did the rear diff with M2C diff cups, threw in some M2C hinge pins front/rear and added in the rear M2C axles. Finally, topped everything off with a set of 6s Backflips.

Maybe a Hobby Wing combo sometime in the future, but I'll let it rip on the OEM electronics for a while at least. I also have big motor plans for my X Maxx, just have to see which needs it more after I get some wheel time. Everything moves smooth as silk. I love the Arrma design and I can't wait to get out and break some stuff on it!

 

[Aqualungs]

Nice!

 

[954kevin]

Couple other small additions... I installed the M2C Zero Rebound shock piston kit, but completely forgot to take a single picture of that process. Today, I threw in the M2C Ackerman Bar for good measure. I've got the SMC pack charging currently for the maiden voyage. Nothing too crazy today, just a little shake-down action. Wish me luck!

 

[Barmaleus]

Cool! Let us know how you feel about the Zero Rebound stuff =)

 

[954kevin]

Whew! This dude RIPS! Of course, my gentle shake-down run turned into a full send session. Happy to report no issues at all. Lots of full speed back and forth runs and temps were good on the 16t and newest EXB v6 firmware. It made some sounds I'm not familiar with and that is always a little concerning, but being the first time, I'm pretty confident they were not sounds of destruction. Everything ran smooth as ice. Didn't do a lot of big air type stuff(my usual gig), but the EXB took the jumps I did send it on gracefully.