Wanted to start a thread to post all the things I change on my 3s typhon. Having had many RCs in the past I wish I had documented everything in this way. Forgive me for having to start "in the middle" of the build but I will list everything I have done in order.
Bought the buggy brand new, have only run it on 3s packs. Power Hobby 5200mah 50C packs doing bashing and running on a small track I built at work.
First upgrades I did were to the front end steering. Having an issue with the buggy driving straight consistently made it very hard to do much with the buggy. Hitting jumps or even speed runs are hard to do if u can predicably go straight. So I started going through things to find the problem. First upgrading to Hot Racing aluminum pivot balls(part # ATF160B02) and a Hot Racing aluminum steering rack(part # ATF4801)
When installing the HR rack I noticed that the steering throw seemed limited. After playing with it for a while I found that the rack itself was limiting the steering throw. After checking the stocker I found the same as was true with it as well so I modified it to gain a considerable amount of steering throw.
So here is where both racks hit the pivot arms on the drag link on the bottom side.
And here you can see where I filed away part of my HR rack to gain the steering throw. I took off all of the angled portion of the two raised ridges.
So after all of that my steering problems still persisted. Come to find out that it was the steering servo directly. The stock ADS-7 servo was not finding center consistently. Tested the theory by swapping to an old Traxxas 2056 servo and eventually landed on a "DSSERVO" 25KG servo from Banggood (part # DS3225SG). So far the servo has worked awesome and I have no complaints(about 8-10 packs as of now)
So now that I had a buggy that drove straight it was time to put it to work. I always seem to find myself doing "laps" around bashing spots so naturally I end up with a kind of track. At work I have shovelled and built a small track with some decent sized jumps. Running around this I noticed that the buggy would bottom out pretty easily and that one of my front shocks had started leaking fluid. A bit of digging and I found the stock fluid weight listed as 550cst. So I went up to 800cst(60wt) to try and combat the bottoming out. Which has helped a lot in the jumping and overall driving of the buggy.
At the same time I noticed that under acceleration my rear diff seemed to unload easily. I got some 60k diff fluid for that. Opening the diffs I found they were not very full of fluid. I don't know if Arrma intentionally under fills them to try and keep internal pressure lower or if it was just a mistake. I filled mine and now I have a much better driving buggy. Powering through and out of corners much more consistently and aggressively.
So as running my track became more often it started to break in and I changed the wheels and tires to yellow AKA Evo wheels(part # 24003Y) with Proline Caliber tires(part # 9030-02) to help get better grip.
Next thing to go was the EsC cooling fan. Just kind of stopped spinning. So my local shop had dual fan Castle Creations motor fan(part # 011-0019-00) on sale and I grabbed one and started cutting. I made two plates and mounted of of the 40mm fans to the motor heat sink and one to the ESC using the same holes as the old fan to mount the ESC fan.
It has been a popular request for me to show how I attached these fans and I will have a lot available in the future to do exactly that. NOTE: I did have to raise my rear body mounts to full height to fit the bigger fan on the motor and the ESC had to be moved to the lower mounting position that you see it here because the bigger ESC fan would not clear the body.
Bought the buggy brand new, have only run it on 3s packs. Power Hobby 5200mah 50C packs doing bashing and running on a small track I built at work.
First upgrades I did were to the front end steering. Having an issue with the buggy driving straight consistently made it very hard to do much with the buggy. Hitting jumps or even speed runs are hard to do if u can predicably go straight. So I started going through things to find the problem. First upgrading to Hot Racing aluminum pivot balls(part # ATF160B02) and a Hot Racing aluminum steering rack(part # ATF4801)
When installing the HR rack I noticed that the steering throw seemed limited. After playing with it for a while I found that the rack itself was limiting the steering throw. After checking the stocker I found the same as was true with it as well so I modified it to gain a considerable amount of steering throw.
So here is where both racks hit the pivot arms on the drag link on the bottom side.
And here you can see where I filed away part of my HR rack to gain the steering throw. I took off all of the angled portion of the two raised ridges.
So after all of that my steering problems still persisted. Come to find out that it was the steering servo directly. The stock ADS-7 servo was not finding center consistently. Tested the theory by swapping to an old Traxxas 2056 servo and eventually landed on a "DSSERVO" 25KG servo from Banggood (part # DS3225SG). So far the servo has worked awesome and I have no complaints(about 8-10 packs as of now)
So now that I had a buggy that drove straight it was time to put it to work. I always seem to find myself doing "laps" around bashing spots so naturally I end up with a kind of track. At work I have shovelled and built a small track with some decent sized jumps. Running around this I noticed that the buggy would bottom out pretty easily and that one of my front shocks had started leaking fluid. A bit of digging and I found the stock fluid weight listed as 550cst. So I went up to 800cst(60wt) to try and combat the bottoming out. Which has helped a lot in the jumping and overall driving of the buggy.
At the same time I noticed that under acceleration my rear diff seemed to unload easily. I got some 60k diff fluid for that. Opening the diffs I found they were not very full of fluid. I don't know if Arrma intentionally under fills them to try and keep internal pressure lower or if it was just a mistake. I filled mine and now I have a much better driving buggy. Powering through and out of corners much more consistently and aggressively.
So as running my track became more often it started to break in and I changed the wheels and tires to yellow AKA Evo wheels(part # 24003Y) with Proline Caliber tires(part # 9030-02) to help get better grip.
Next thing to go was the EsC cooling fan. Just kind of stopped spinning. So my local shop had dual fan Castle Creations motor fan(part # 011-0019-00) on sale and I grabbed one and started cutting. I made two plates and mounted of of the 40mm fans to the motor heat sink and one to the ESC using the same holes as the old fan to mount the ESC fan.
It has been a popular request for me to show how I attached these fans and I will have a lot available in the future to do exactly that. NOTE: I did have to raise my rear body mounts to full height to fit the bigger fan on the motor and the ESC had to be moved to the lower mounting position that you see it here because the bigger ESC fan would not clear the body.
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