Kraton Kraton 4s Spurgear plastic problem

[ValentinoDisco]

Can you reply on the rest of my questions in my earlier message? @GRC

 

[GRC]

- The HR yoke works very well. The front diff generally takes less abuse, I've never had a problem in the front, so I only use the HR yoke in the rear.
- If the diff ring gear is still in good condition you may not have to replace it, but many say a new one is a good idea when using a new input gear.
- Use grease on the outside for the diff ring gear and input gear. Many people recommended Red "N" Tacky, so that's what I use and it works well.
- You should use diff oil inside of the diffs. I have a Granite, which comes with 10k diff fluid. 50k seems heavy to me. But I'm not sure what the factory diff fluid is for the 4s line. I've read the extra strain heavier diff fluid creates can have more potential for damage.

I would still check the motor plate again. Once it gets bent and straightened, it tends to bend more easily. I had to get an upgrade because mine was getting re-bent all the time.

 

[ValentinoDisco]

Is 50 k diff fluid for the K4s not to much because 10k is standard ?

- The HR yoke works very well. The front diff generally takes less abuse, I've never had a problem in the front, so I only use the HR yoke in the rear.
- If the diff ring gear is still in good condition you may not have to replace it, but many say a new one is a good idea when using a new input gear.
- Use grease on the outside for the diff ring gear and input gear. Many people recommended Red "N" Tacky, so that's what I use and it works well.
- You should use diff oil inside of the diffs. I have a Granite, which comes with 10k diff fluid. 50k seems heavy to me. But I'm not sure what the factory diff fluid is for the 4s line. I've read the extra strain heavier diff fluid creates can have more potential for damage.

I would still check the motor plate again. Once it gets bent and straightened, it tends to bend more easily. I had to get an upgrade because mine was getting re-bent all the time.

Replacement for the Motor Plate which is the best ?
M2C's new one
Hot Racing One
Or Arrma stronger Adjustable
@GRC

 

[GRC]

Like I said, I don't know the standard diff oil in the 4s vehicles. I didn't realize that camaroboy recommended 50k. Many others use heavier diff oil than stock, so it may be a good recommendation.

The Hot Racing motor mount is supposed to be stronger than the Arrma. I've never used it so I can't say how much stronger. For some it seems to be strong enough, others do still bend them. I have the M2C, it has held up to big jumps and bad crashes with no bends, but it's expensive. Custom RC Upgrades also sells a 7075 aluminum motor mount. https://customrcupgrades.com/product/arrma-3s-and-4s-motor-mount/ The initial cost is much less than the M2C, but shipping to the US makes it almost the same. Arrma is coming out with a thicker motor plate. As far as I know it's not available for sale yet. https://www.arrma-rc.com/part/ARA311106

 

[ValentinoDisco]

Thanks

 

[Camaroboy383]

For sure grab some aluminum yoke's, it will be best so you can get a grasp on slipper settings.. would suck to boil out another input and crown...

He didn't say he burned up the clutch. You did. At first he said this, and he was correct.



I instantly recognized the photos because that's what the inside of my power module looked like (mine wasn't quite as bad). If you check the thread I posted you'll see photos of that black dust. There is also the tell tale circle on the back of the power module. My power module and the one in the other thread were not nearly as chewed up. ValentinoDisco's power module has really deep gashes, hence more black dust. I and a few others tried out the shims and agreed they stopped the slipper from rubbing the power module and stopped the black dust.


Check your motor plate to see if it's bent. One thing I did not realize at the time of that other thread was that a bent motor plate was contributing to the slipper plate rubbing the power module.

Background informations : the spurgear has plenty of play in the housing and I am running a 15 T pinion, and since the last to runs it does not make wheelies any more but the slipper is tight ,not loosened


Helps if you read thoroughly...

 

[GRC]

Background informations : the spurgear has plenty of play in the housing and I am running a 15 T pinion, and since the last to runs it does not make wheelies any more but the slipper is tight ,not loosened


Helps if you read thoroughly...

Yes I read that. Play in the housing is what causes the spur gear to rub the module. That's why you shim it.
Looks like he also burnt up a slipper pad. That could be the result, not the cause. If the slipper is rubbing the module badly it will heat up.

 

[Camaroboy383]

Yes I read that. Play in the housing is what causes the spur gear to rub the module. That's why you shim it.
Looks like he also burnt up a slipper pad. That could be the result, not the cause. If the slipper is rubbing the module badly it will heat up.