Kraton Kraton 4S v2 - Driveshaft C-clip heat shrink hack

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Gedrick

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 4s
This may be amateur hour stuff for you folks who've been into RC for a while, but I posted about this in RazorRCs thread and it's probably buried by now.

I ran my Kraton through only one battery pack and found that a common issue others had with the driveshafts also happened to me - popped off C-clips, leaving the pin exposed, like so:

6A2C74E3-6689-4207-A138-3089C49881BF_1_105_c.jpeg


These clips retain the pin that the driveshafts pivot around where they meet the diff outdrive. This could potentially end up in the pin coming out (since the c-clip covers it and holds it in), and the shaft being busted until some replacements could be shipped.

I was lucky that I still had the clip itself, and although it was mangled I was able to get the thing back into shape and clipped back on somehow - losing only about 2-3mm of the clip itself due to metal fatigue when I bent it back. However now it was basically guaranteed to come back off, so I tried putting a zip tie around it. This worked great -- until of course, the wheel spun, and then the block part of the zip tie would hit and wear down the tie rod.

Then I tried some electrical tape. This held up great in the front, but due to the stickiness of tape it got very gritty from roost and eventually failed after a single battery pack. Not to mention was a total disaster to clean up, attracting all the gritty dirt right into high speed moving metal parts..

Finally I went to the 'Depot and got some FAT heat shrink. Talking the thickest I could find. Thicker than a bowl of oatmeal.

A1402AD2-A624-4A80-B5AF-4C6B2ABF6518_1_105_c.jpeg


The fronts were very easy to do, because you can get your hex down into the groove, pull out the grub screw, and the driveshaft popped out easy. I cut a thin strip of the smaller heat shrink and it went on great. Fronts were done.

217E92C5-E39D-4621-B4D3-53A528DEED1F_1_105_c.jpeg


The rear, you can't really get a hex into the grub to remove the shaft, honestly I don't even know how I'm supposed to get here. But I was able to remove the tire and the rear hub, allowing me to pull out the tire-side of the driveshaft, so I could slide on the heat shrink towards the diff.

32B9E808-B052-4795-B7A5-72B98736AC76_1_105_c.jpeg


All in all, this went on very easily and I don't anticipate further problems unless this heat shrink fails, which seems pretty unlikely for a while due to how darn thick it is.

There ya have it. Wanted to break this out into a post in case some concerned Googler with the same problem comes along. Thanks for watching and I'll see you next time.

CDBE5E0E-5ECF-4851-BD3C-4AE1380519AF_1_105_c.jpeg
 
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Makes me wonder why they deviated from the original v1 upgrade design...🤔.. I've never had a pin come out of those...

Keep us posted on the heat shrink.. that may very well work as long as stones don't grab the clip again and yank it through the heat shrink...👍
 
Keep us posted on the heat shrink.. that may very well work as long as stones don't grab the clip again and yank it through the heat shrink...👍

Yup, no doubt! I'm stoked I was able to get this going for tonight, can't wait to send this bad boy again. Will definitely keep an eye out, really I'm curious what kind of wear and tear the rears will face - the front was fine with just the electrical tape, it's all the small rocks and sand that were causing a mess in the rear.

Although I just ordered rear mud-guards from @Tex Koder so that should make it even less of a problem (y) I don't like problems on my cars. Lol
 
Very nice. Arrma needs a better solution for this issue. Driveshafts should not be popping out at the diff connection. Maybe springloaded colis over the groove......like some of the aftermarket 3s shafts.
Capture.JPG
 
Very nice. Arrma needs a better solution for this issue. Driveshafts should not be popping out at the diff connection. Maybe springloaded colis over the groove......like some of the aftermarket 3s shafts.
View attachment 242040
That's an interesting design, and should work well. Someone actually recommended to me to take a keyring and bend it to be that shape with two pairs of pliers.. but I didn't have four spare keyrings sitting around and i figured it may be difficult to get it to the perfect size where it would sit in the groove.
 
Yup, no doubt! I'm stoked I was able to get this going for tonight, can't wait to send this bad boy again. Will definitely keep an eye out, really I'm curious what kind of wear and tear the rears will face - the front was fine with just the electrical tape, it's all the small rocks and sand that were causing a mess in the rear.

Although I just ordered rear mud-guards from @Tex Koder so that should make it even less of a problem (y) I don't like problems on my cars. Lol


That a boy tex.. get that printer in full swing..😎... Don't know what I would do without the room full I have...🤣🤣🤣
 
That's an interesting design, and should work well. Someone actually recommended to me to take a keyring and bend it to be that shape with two pairs of pliers.. but I didn't have four spare keyrings sitting around and i figured it may be difficult to get it to the perfect size where it would sit in the groove.

Guess you could use guitar (or piano) string to achieve the same..?



*******************************


That a boy tex.. get that printer in full swing..😎... Don't know what I would do without the room full I have...🤣🤣🤣

Trust me.. I'm working on it!!
 
This doesn't work for long. The heatshrink loosens up, slide down and expose the pin again. Maybe some super glue could help keep it in place but the soft heatshrink is not a permanent solution.
Rocks knock the c clip off, rocks tear up the heatshrink aswell.
 
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This doesn't work for long. The heatshrink loosens up, slide down and expose the pin again. Maybe some super glue could help keep it in place but the soft heatshrink is not a permanent solution.
Rocks knock the c clip off, rocks tear up the heatshrink aswell.

You need to install some 4S v2 mudguards
 
You need to install some 4S v2 mudguards
Yup, big credit to this hack working properly goes to the mudguards that Tex printed for me. Otherwise yes, lots of debris flying around will eventually put small cuts into the heat shrink and you’ll have to do it again.

I went to a super rocky lot the other day and was wheelying around everywhere, clipping huge rocks and it’s still perfect.

Attached a picture of the lot too, to give you an idea what I mean. The guards protect a lot more than I initially realized.

242BD3A0-E45D-4C5B-A5E3-86E3C720CA1F.jpeg


A1472869-342E-4148-BB0E-CBF077C52E84.jpeg


87CE99CB-7880-4D6D-BA16-A2EC3FD8E077.jpeg

This doesn't work for long. The heatshrink loosens up, slide down and expose the pin again. Maybe some super glue could help keep it in place but the soft heatshrink is not a permanent solution.
Rocks knock the c clip off, rocks tear up the heatshrink aswell.
Also I have not had this issue at all, of the heat shrink itself sliding down. Maybe you didn’t shrink it enough? Cause mine is so tight it’s “seated” into the groove, and hasn’t moved at all after 20 or so packs in very rocky and mulchy terrain.
 
This may be amateur hour stuff for you folks who've been into RC for a while, but I posted about this in RazorRCs thread and it's probably buried by now.

I ran my Kraton through only one battery pack and found that a common issue others had with the driveshafts also happened to me - popped off C-clips, leaving the pin exposed, like so:

View attachment 242017

These clips retain the pin that the driveshafts pivot around where they meet the diff outdrive. This could potentially end up in the pin coming out (since the c-clip covers it and holds it in), and the shaft being busted until some replacements could be shipped.

I was lucky that I still had the clip itself, and although it was mangled I was able to get the thing back into shape and clipped back on somehow - losing only about 2-3mm of the clip itself due to metal fatigue when I bent it back. However now it was basically guaranteed to come back off, so I tried putting a zip tie around it. This worked great -- until of course, the wheel spun, and then the block part of the zip tie would hit and wear down the tie rod.

Then I tried some electrical tape. This held up great in the front, but due to the stickiness of tape it got very gritty from roost and eventually failed after a single battery pack. Not to mention was a total disaster to clean up, attracting all the gritty dirt right into high speed moving metal parts..

Finally I went to the 'Depot and got some FAT heat shrink. Talking the thickest I could find. Thicker than a bowl of oatmeal.

View attachment 242026

The fronts were very easy to do, because you can get your hex down into the groove, pull out the grub screw, and the driveshaft popped out easy. I cut a thin strip of the smaller heat shrink and it went on great. Fronts were done.

View attachment 242020

The rear, you can't really get a hex into the grub to remove the shaft, honestly I don't even know how I'm supposed to get here. But I was able to remove the tire and the rear hub, allowing me to pull out the tire-side of the driveshaft, so I could slide on the heat shrink towards the diff.

View attachment 242023

All in all, this went on very easily and I don't anticipate further problems unless this heat shrink fails, which seems pretty unlikely for a while due to how darn thick it is.

There ya have it. Wanted to break this out into a post in case some concerned Googler with the same problem comes along. Thanks for watching and I'll see you next time.

View attachment 242024
I need to find the time to do this. Thanks for the post. Can you link the specific heat wrap you ended up using? Rears are a pain. You have to remove the rear shock tower/ diff carrier to access the grub screws.
 
I need to find the time to do this. Thanks for the post. Can you link the specific heat wrap you ended up using? Rears are a pain. You have to remove the rear shock tower/ diff carrier to access the grub screws.
Yup! Check the original post :) I put a picture of the heat shrink (it’s Commercial Electric, $2.59 each pack) - on the rears I used the larger shrink wrap, and before you go and take off the shock tower and all that, you can slide it from the opposite end and just shrink it with the shaft still connected to the diff.

Just take off the tire, wheel hub, and the link, pull out the wheel-side half of the drive shaft, then slide it over and on.
 
Veeery interesting! Looks like these should put the issue to rest, then. By any chance do you have a part number for just the couplings?

Ninja edit: disregard, I probably could have looked first 🙃

https://www.arrma-rc.com/en/product/cvd-differential-outdrive-2/ARAC3951.html

So hold on a minute..

Are you saying Arrma put out an flawed design and now is happy to sell/charge us to get the "fixed" version..?!

*******************************

I was actually doing a search too.. Thinking it was from a third-party solution..
But this part is from Arrma Direct.
That's just not right!


**********

I can understand if these are some sort of Upgrade.
Such that the original design worked fine and we have no problems/issues... And, just wanted these metal ones for MORE performance, looks, or whatever.

But that's not the case.
The originals are NOT reliable and fails randomly.
 
So hold on a minute..

Are you saying Arrma put out an flawed design and now is happy to sell/charge us to get the "fixed" version..?!

*******************************

I was actually doing a search too.. Thinking it was from a third-party solution..
But this part is from Arrma Direct.
That's just not right!


**********

I can understand if these are some sort of Upgrade.
Such that the original design worked fine and we have no problems/issues... And, just wanted these metal ones for MORE performance, looks, or whatever.

But that's not the case.
The originals are NOT reliable and fails randomly.


No, that part has been around for some time.. far before the v2 was available..👍..
 
Gedrick I upgraded to metal diff outputs they use a different retaining system than the stock c clip style. Ill give the mudguards a shot.

View attachment 244450
How or what did you use to keep the pins in the metal type. I have a set for my rears but nothing is included to hold the pins in. The stock ones slide right off. Please tell me how you made yours work
 
This doesn't work for long. The heatshrink loosens up, slide down and expose the pin again. Maybe some super glue could help keep it in place but the soft heatshrink is not a permanent solution.
Rocks knock the c clip off, rocks tear up the heatshrink aswell.
I think if you use a Replacement clip with the Heatshrink wrapped over, you will be golden.
Maybe some CA under the HS wrap for some moral support. Perhaps even double HS wrap it for the extra mile.;)
@Gedrick, great thread.(y)
 
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