Kraton Kraton 4s v2 monkey metal diffs.

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Moirae

Beauty & Beast
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Arrma RC's
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Tbh I'm a bit disappointed. I have less than 10 packs on this rig and the day it happened I wasn't even doing much of anything. I barely got 1 foot off the ground. I linked the video at the exact moment the front diff gear went poof. I definitely expected more from these metal gears.


I'm assuming the hot racing gears are higher quality than stock? I already replaced it with a stock diff from jenny's but I'm wondering what the upgrade is if this keeps happening. Thanks for any insight. :cool:
 
View attachment 258173View attachment 258174


Tbh I'm a bit disappointed. I have less than 10 packs on this rig and the day it happened I wasn't even doing much of anything. I barely got 1 foot off the ground. I linked the video at the exact moment the front diff gear went poof. I definitely expected more from these metal gears.


I'm assuming the hot racing gears are higher quality than stock? I already replaced it with a stock diff from jenny's but I'm wondering what the upgrade is if this keeps happening. Thanks for any insights
I think it is definitely an upgrade from the plastic v1 diffs but not durable enough for the power the kraton-outcast 4s delivers. Yes I think hot racing diffs are made from steel so definitely more durable.
 
Those ring gears are sintered metal, which isn't as strong as regular steel. The Arrma CNC steel geared transmission modules are a good upgrade, but they are not cheap - $75 each. I have them in both my Typhon 3s and my Infraction 3s. Combine these modules with the HR aluminum yokes (as I have) and you have a strong transmission system.
 
Those ring gears are sintered metal, which isn't as strong as regular steel. The Arrma CNC steel geared transmission modules are a good upgrade, but they are not cheap - $75 each. I have them in both my Typhon 3s and my Infraction 3s. Combine these modules with the HR aluminum yokes (as I have) and you have a strong transmission system.
You can get the CNC ring gear for 23 bucks. I have a couple of the CNC diff that I built from the parts. It’s near half the price of buying the whole shebang preassembled. I kind of figured the monkey metal won’t last so I’ll pop on a new CNC gear when it goes.

When I opened my new 4s diff up all the parts seemed the same, except for the sintered ring gear, so the cnc one should fit fine. I agree that the hot racing yoke is pretty much necessary. I’m am a bit surprised that his front one went out though. Usually the front takes a lot less stress.

9D10F979-9C13-4EC3-B921-79D542652225.png
 
View attachment 258173View attachment 258174


Tbh I'm a bit disappointed. I have less than 10 packs on this rig and the day it happened I wasn't even doing much of anything. I barely got 1 foot off the ground. I linked the video at the exact moment the front diff gear went poof. I definitely expected more from these metal gears.


I'm assuming the hot racing gears are higher quality than stock? I already replaced it with a stock diff from jenny's but I'm wondering what the upgrade is if this keeps happening. Thanks for any insight. :cool:

Sorry to see that happening so soon.
Will Arrma warranty such a failure?
 
You can get the CNC ring gear for 23 bucks. I have a couple of the CNC diff that I built from the parts. It’s near half the price of buying the whole shebang preassembled. I kind of figured the monkey metal won’t last so I’ll pop on a new CNC gear when it goes.

When I opened my new 4s diff up all the parts seemed the same, except for the sintered ring gear, so the cnc one should fit fine. I agree that the hot racing yoke is pretty much necessary. I’m am a bit surprised that his front one went out though. Usually the front takes a lot less stress.

View attachment 258199
I think the diff case is different too.
 
Sorry to see that happening so soon.
Will Arrma warranty such a failure?
Nah I doubt it. All gears are considered a ‘wear item’. Wouldn’t hurt to try though.
I think the diff case is different too.
Hmm…could be. I just picked up a new 4s diff off Jenny’s and have a new cnc gear so will check on that at some point.
View attachment 258173View attachment 258174


Tbh I'm a bit disappointed. I have less than 10 packs on this rig and the day it happened I wasn't even doing much of anything. I barely got 1 foot off the ground. I linked the video at the exact moment the front diff gear went poof. I definitely expected more from these metal gears.


I'm assuming the hot racing gears are higher quality than stock? I already replaced it with a stock diff from jenny's but I'm wondering what the upgrade is if this keeps happening. Thanks for any insight. :cool:
🤔 are the input gears sintered metal also? I hadn’t looked that close at them yet. Did yours get damaged or just the ring gear?
 
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Sorry to see :( if you put them under your pillow maybe the tooth fairly bring you a new CNC diff. 😜
In this case call HH, they may be your Tooth Fairy.:giggle:
Yeah Sintered Cast metal won't hold up to 4x4 4s rigs. Nature of the beast.
Paying Arrma $75 for a CNC'ed main gear is ludicrous for a 4x4 rig. A rip off. Money maker for HH.
When an Arrma steel Main gear for a 1/5 8s rig is like only $45.:rolleyes:
Overall I always felt the 4x4 line gets most costly if you run more than 3s in them. When comparing parts prices to the more popular 6s line. Whether Upgrade parts or stock parts.
 
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You can get the CNC ring gear for 23 bucks. I have a couple of the CNC diff that I built from the parts. It’s near half the price of buying the whole shebang preassembled. I kind of figured the monkey metal won’t last so I’ll pop on a new CNC gear when it goes.

When I opened my new 4s diff up all the parts seemed the same, except for the sintered ring gear, so the cnc one should fit fine. I agree that the hot racing yoke is pretty much necessary. I’m am a bit surprised that his front one went out though. Usually the front takes a lot less stress.

View attachment 258199
I should definitely consider this, thank you.
Those on throttle landings can bite ya... It's unfortunate, but it happens...
I try so hard not to land on throttle, I actually pride myself on it. I've never ever ever had anything like this happen on my 6s or 8s rigs. The fact that was enough to break that crown gear is BS. I mean I'm someone who will do standing backflips all the way down the street and still never had a problem with diffs before.

I've even run 6s on my 3s typhon with the hot racing gears and never had a problem. Feelsbad! I shouldn't have bought this 4s arrma :eek::ROFLMAO:
Nah I doubt it. All gears are considered a ‘wear item’. Wouldn’t hurt to try though.

Hmm…could be. I just picked up a new 4s diff off Jenny’s and have a new cnc gear so will check on that at some point.

🤔 are the input gears sintered metal also? I hadn’t looked that close at them yet. Did yours get damaged or just the ring gear?
I'm not sure tbh but the input gear wasn't damaged. Thankfully, as I didn't have a replacement for that haha.





Thanks for all the replies, guys. I'm going to upgrade that crown gear if it happens again. Either hot racing or the cnc arrma gear. If I could go back in time, I probably wouldn't have bought this kraton 4s but I'm in it knee deep now so might as well make it work. Hopefully these crown gears will be the end of my problems.
 
I should definitely consider this, thank you.
I’ll let you know once I’ve checked to see if the cnc ring gear will fit the 4s diff case. If not, a new diff case is only 7 bucks and the internals swap over. That’s why I build them. Parts (diff case and ring gear) are around 30 bucks, gasket is $4 and I use the internal gears from a 3s diff that the ring stripped or wore out. The hot racing diff yokes work very well but cost a poop load. They are worth it though.
 
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