Kraton Kraton 6s advice

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T4H1T1

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Hey guys I’m new here but wanted to get some advice. I’m on a waiting list for the Arrma Kraton 6s and wanted to ask what parts I NEED/SHOULD upgrade ASAP, also parts I should always have on hand in case things break. And lastly I see some run 2x 2s or 3s packs vs just one 4s or 6s pack. What’s the difference?
 
I can't help you with the parts advice but will mention I prefer using two batteries simply because I can use the 2s in my crawlers which I cant run the 4s in those.
 
what parts I NEED/SHOULD upgrade ASAP

Aluminum chassis braces.

I also always check the shimming of the front/rear differential, whatever the brand (i don't talk about the shims inside the diff.).

Other nice upgrades : front bumper (RPM or POS), rear skid plate (RPM, GPM, M3, JBI...), arrma wheely bar.

And lastly I see some run 2x 2s or 3s packs vs just one 4s or 6s pack. What’s the difference?

It is same. The main difference for me is that i can use my 2s or 3s batteries in smaller cars. A single battery is also more "easy" to charge than two.
 
Highly recommended upgrades/tuning from the start:
- Aluminum chassis braces
- Sealed bearing kit (replace as needed, but buy a set ASAP)
- Front bumper
- Adjust you droop screws to save your rod ends
- Upgrade radio if you have the funds.
- Check the diffs for oil level.
- Check that all screws are tight and everything is assembled correctly (mine was fine).


Part to have on hand:
- Front and rear A-arms (RPM or EXB)
- Wing mount (RPM)

Enjoy!
 
Aluminum chassis braces.
Ok. Is an aluminum chassis a good upgrade?

I also always check the shimming of the front/rear differential, whatever the brand (i don't talk about the shom inside the diff.).

ok. I read that the v4 and above don’t seem to need any although still needs to be checked in case.

Other nice upgrades : front bumper (RPM or POS), rear skid plate (RPM, GPM, M3, JBI...).
Will get those for sure

It is same. The main difference for me is that i can use my 2s or 3s batteries in smaller cars.
Oh ok so more of a convenience thing.
Highly recommended upgrades/tuning from the start:
- Aluminum chassis braces
- Sealed bearing kit (replace as needed, but buy a set ASAP)
- Front bumper
- Adjust you droop screws to save your rod ends
- Upgrade radio if you have the funds.
- Check the diffs for oil level.
- Check that all screws are tight and everything is assembled correctly (mine was fine).


Part to have on hand:
- Front and rear A-arms (RPM or EXB)
- Wing mount (RPM)

Enjoy!
What oil would you recommend using? I read that the 10k it comes with isnt enough. Are gears something to have on hand too?
 
Ok. Is an aluminum chassis a good upgrade?

Depend how you bash it. If you manage to bend it often, then a 7075 chassis is a good option. I have a 7075 in stock which wait to be put on my K6S V2, but as i haven't bent my chassis yet.

ok. I read that the v4 and above don’t seem to need any although still needs to be checked in case.

I never touched the shims inside the diff. of my V2 Kraton.

What oil would you recommend using? I read that the 10k it comes with isnt enough. Are gears something to have on hand too?

You can stay with the stock oil for begining : 10K/100K/10K
 
Depend how you basj it. If you manage to bend it often, then a 7075 chassis is a good option.



I never touched the shims inside the diff. of my V2 Kraton.



You can stay with the stock oil for begining : 10K/100K/10K
Ok thanks for all that advice
 
Depend how you bash it. If you manage to bend it often, then a 7075 chassis is a good option. I have a 7075 in stock which wait to be put on my K6S V2, but as i haven't bent my chassis yet.

Damn! You have great self-control! :oops:

That was my plan as well, but I ended up installing the new chassis within hours after I got it. :p
 
Damn! You have great self-control! :oops:

:ROFLMAO: If i don't need it yet, why using it? Same for the front bumper, i have a rpm one (since months), i just put it right now after i answered, but so far, no issue without also.

My rule is : , change it if you really need it. The only upgrades i do from the start is the chassis braces and the skid plates, but it was on my Notorious only. i ran my K6S V2 with the stock plastic braces without broke then also.
 
:ROFLMAO: If i don't need it yet, why using it? Same for the front bumper, i have a rpm one (since months), i just put it right now after i answered, but so far, no issue without also.

My rule is : , change it if you really need it. The only upgrades i do from the start is the chassis braces and the skid plates, but it was on my Notorious only. i ran my K6S V2 with the stock plastic braces without broke then also.

Yes, you are right and I agree this is the right way to go. This is what I am doing with my A-arms, wing mount, shock standoff, pillow ball retainer, and some other things. I am still running stock, but I have the upgrade parts in the tool box.

The thing is that I really wanted to do this chassis swap. I am still learning about RC stuff and upgrading parts is an important part of the learning process for me. I also actually enjoy wrenching even more than driving.
 
I am still learning about RC stuff and upgrading parts is an important part of the learning process for me. I also actually enjoy wrenching even more than driving.

Knowing his car and knowing how tunning it are something important. But learn how to drive it is also important. Upgrades come in second imo. You will always break something if you land it badly too often and especially if you try to do too hard bashing too quickly. Upgrades are mainly to make the car more durable, at least for bashing, but you don't always need to put all the upgrades available from the start.

E93A79B1-3354-4DF2-B4DA-DE7F701F7B37.jpeg
 
Highly recommended upgrades/tuning from the start:
- Aluminum chassis braces
- Sealed bearing kit (replace as needed, but buy a set ASAP)
- Front bumper
- Adjust you droop screws to save your rod ends
- Upgrade radio if you have the funds.
- Check the diffs for oil level.
- Check that all screws are tight and everything is assembled correctly (mine was fine).


Part to have on hand:
- Front and rear A-arms (RPM or EXB)
- Wing mount (RPM)

Enjoy!
Hey quick question how do you know when you have the right droop or. What do u go by to know the droop is good?
 
Hey quick question how do you know when you have the right droop or. What do u go by to know the droop is good?

I adjust the droop so that the shock needs to be compressed a couple mm when you install them in the shock standoff. That way, they never go to full extension when you drive the car.
 
Last edited:
I adjust the droop so that the shock needs to be compressed a couple mm so that you can install them in the shock standoff. That way, they never go to full extension when you drive the car.
Nice that's a good way to put it so some one like me understand it's. I been trying messer my shocks and lift off ground and see how much clearance I have. Thanks!
 
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