Kraton 6s drivetrain temperature

[Starfox2005]

It this ok for a kraton 6s in 90°F? Seems way too hot and am hoping I didn't damage anything. Was doing a lot of wheelies on 6s. That's the center diff temp.

 

[gotnitro]

Yeah, they certainly do heat up! Only one way to decrease the CD temps, thicker fluid. My DB pro gets into the 180's with 1M in there.

 

[Starfox2005]

Yeah, they certainly do heat up! Only one way to decrease the CD temps, thicker fluid. My DB pro gets into the 180's with 1M in there.

Yeah it's got 100,000 in there

 

[Sargent_Horse]

The ESC should shutoff before it kills itself and the motor is what you want to check temps on. Anything over 200F is entering imminent motor death territory. Keep your pinion size down to where you have safe temps and get a motor heatsink and fans to help.

At 95F ambient with my 2 fans and 15T pinion on a constant throttle bash session my motor touches 200F. I'm going to go down to Backflip LP tires to hopefully compensate, otherwise I need to go down a pinion tooth or two.

That does seem high for the center diff. Make sure your driveline bearings aren't seized and that your diff is properly filled with fluid and mesh set etc. Anything between 250 and 500K in the center would be good (and helps with wheelies and air control). If the center cup melts it would be a good excuse to upgrade to aluminum haha.

 

[Starfox2005]

The ESC should shutoff before it kills itself and the motor is what you want to check temps on. Anything over 200F is entering imminent motor death territory. Keep your pinion size down to where you have safe temps and get a motor heatsink and fans to help.

At 95F ambient with my 2 fans and 15T pinion on a constant throttle bash session my motor touches 200F. I'm going to go down to Backflip LP tires to hopefully compensate, otherwise I need to go down a pinion tooth or two.

That does seem high for the center diff. Make sure your driveline bearings aren't seized and that your diff is properly filled with fluid and mesh set etc. Anything between 250 and 500K in the center would be good (and helps with wheelies and air control). If the center cup melts it would be a good excuse to upgrade to aluminum haha.

I think the bearings are ok but would a bent rear shock tower cause binding in the rear?
My motor was at 150°f range.

 

[Sargent_Horse]

I think the bearings are ok but would a bent rear shock tower cause binding in the rear?
My motor was at 150°f range.

I wouldn't think so, unless it flexed the rear Gearbox somehow? Only way to tell is to move the motor away and see if everything spins freely. Could also be since you were doing wheelies the front is diffing out causing more differential movement inside the center diff than usual. I think that makes sense anyway.

 

[Starfox2005]

I think i

I wouldn't think so, unless it flexed the rear Gearbox somehow? Only way to tell is to move the motor away and see if everything spins freely. Could also be since you were doing wheelies the front is diffing out causing more differential movement inside the center diff than usual. I think that makes sense anyway.

I think it's flexing one of the suspension arms too much and it's binding.

 

[CameronCodes]

back when my kraton used to run when it went into limp mode u would test myself by grabbing it by the motor after running it and carrying it inside...
and you guys call me stupid

 

[Disturbed_kraton]

If your running the composite or plastic center diff id be careful at those Temps I was showing off one day doing wheelies the whole way across a baseball field about the 5th time the composite melted. I bought all aluminum diff and put 20mil weight in and have never looked back lol.