Kraton Kraton 6S EXB Diff Shim Set to Open Diff - Beware

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Wow, I didn't have those kind of problems with my Kraton thank goodness. I've have been pretty upset. So far I've not found any real problems with mine, just the one stripped screw in the EXB diff case I bought from Jenny's. The rest has been good.
 
I Hope this is a sign of better QC!
Because I am starting to slow down with Arrma stuff as of late. No longer quick to jump in with their stuff any more.
I am starting to think I am better off spending more $$ and build a kit from scratch. What I used to do years back.
I feel like a slave having to rebuild and check over a supposed RTR from Arrma every single time out the box.
RTR's from other brands are usually the same in this regard however.
Scratch built Kits of higher end brands are usually much better IMHO. You pay more.
But Arrma does have a 2 year warranty and above average parts train to support their stuff. That matters also.:unsure:
 
Last edited:
.Scratch built Kits of higher end brands are usually much better IMHO. You pay more.
Do you mean kit (or roller), or scratch build? My idea of a scratch build would be starting with a M2C chassis, towers, and braces, then filling in the parts with Jenny's and the HR bits I like. Maybe do a Mojave-arm Kraton (mid-sized truggy!) and get what I want without having to buy stuff that will just sit in the parts bin until my estate sale.
 
Well, the verdict is in, and for me the EXB LSD diffs are a HUGE upgrade to the BLX diffs I was running. I'm running all three as come from ARRMA with max effect front and center and min effect rear with 10/100/10 fluid. If what others say is correct, this would be similar to 50/500/30 fluid in the BLX diffs for reference.

I just got back from some testing and WOW what a difference. I tested on asphalt and very short grass. I'm super happy with the upgrade. The only caveat to my experience vs others may be that I never ran much more than stock fluid in the BLX diffs. I did try 30K in the front and it helped a smidge but not a ton. I enjoy drifting the truck and now I can do that pretty easy and if you're reasonable on the throttle coming out of a corner it plants and goes. Over cook it though and it will want to spin a bit but in my case the front will grab just as it starts to over rotate and I'm back under control. I also don't jump my Kraton 30 feet in the air either, so not sure if that makes any difference.

If I were trying to do this on a budget, I'd go with the EXB LSD center diff and up the fluid in the BLX diffs, but getting the whole diff assembly including case from Jenny's was pretty cost effective plus you get the added benefit of the stronger gear set as well.
 
Do you mean kit (or roller), or scratch build? My idea of a scratch build would be starting with a M2C chassis, towers, and braces, then filling in the parts with Jenny's and the HR bits I like. Maybe do a Mojave-arm Kraton (mid-sized truggy!) and get what I want without having to buy stuff that will just sit in the parts bin until my estate sale.
I refer to a kit build rig as anything that you put together. Every single part, screw etc. with your own 2 hands. From scratch. With your blessing.
A Brand specific kit or a ground up custom. Same thing IMHO.
I absolutely don't think any Roller or Slider is a kit by any means at all. At least by definition. Many call any new rig out the box a Kit. Not.
A Roller is just a means to get a RTR rig minus the electrics. Saving some coin in many cases. Great if you already have a radio or multi-Model radio, and plan on running better electrics of your choice over subpar stock gear. Or maybe you even have some ESC and motor/ servo sitting there collecting dust. Then a roller can make most economic sense, if your RC skills allow. But it is basically still a RTR minus the electrics. Along with the QC issues.
Building a new Tekno kit from scratch is rewarding for example. Best $case$ scenario for me.
 
Last edited:
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.
Back
Top