Kraton 6s Rebuild (ChassySnappy)

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Wow ... Nice to meet you Noto.. Like the looks... :love::love:(y)
How would you compare the Kraton from the Notorious besides the length..
I feel like the Kraton is more heavy bigger and not as nimble, but is extremely fast and aggressive. The Noto can be tossed around like nothing turns on a dime, flips like you wouldn't believe and the thing is much more durable stock than the kraton was. I think that's do to the size difference, my noto chassis is straight as an arrow and I beat the poop out of it my kraton .....well the thread name says it all. I think overall out of the box for me atleast the noto takes it, but we will see when both are completed builds what I like best.
 
Oh ok that makes sense..
Might have to get one some day.. I only have a Typhon 6s and i just bought my Kraton 6s this last june.. So might have to wait for awhile until the wife forgets about my newest toy...:ROFLMAO:
Kinda waiting on parts for my Kraton 6s.. Learned the hard way that you have to heat up bolts that bolt to metal... Duh..:oops:
But she will be back on the road again when the mail shows up..LOL
 
Oh ok that makes sense..
Might have to get one some day.. I only have a Typhon 6s and i just bought my Kraton 6s this last june.. So might have to wait for awhile until the wife forgets about my newest toy...:ROFLMAO:
Kinda waiting on parts for my Kraton 6s.. Learned the hard way that you have to heat up bolts that bolt to metal... Duh..:oops:
But she will be back on the road again when the mail shows up..LOL
I think I remember your post about the grub screw being striped, ye heat and MIP drivers and you will never strip screw heads again.
 
I think I remember your post about the grub screw being striped, ye heat and MIP drivers and you will never strip screw heads again.
how do i heat the MIP drivers.. i was thinking about buying a soldering driver for that.. If i said that right, thats the only thing i seen on youtube..
 
how do i heat the MIP drivers.. i was thinking about buying a soldering driver for that.. If i said that right, thats the only thing i seen on youtube..
Oh no, you don't heat the drivers. MIP drivers are a set of screw driver bits, they are really good and don't strip screws. You have to heat the screw itself with either a pencil torch or sit the tip of a soldering iron on the screw head and let it heat it up.
 
Oh no, you don't heat the drivers. MIP drivers are a set of screw driver bits, they are really good and don't strip screws. You have to heat the screw itself with either a pencil torch or sit the tip of a soldering iron on the screw head and let it heat it up.
OK that makes more sense.. I am still waiting for my MIP drivers to come in..
Where can i get a good soldering iron or a pencil torch.. I made a mistake trying to work in my Kraton 6s and didnt use a heat torch..Something ive been trying to fix now for days.. Big booboo..
 

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OK that makes more sense.. I am still waiting for my MIP drivers to come in..
Where can i get a good soldering iron or a pencil torch.. I made a mistake trying to work in my Kraton 6s and didnt use a heat torch..Something ive been trying to fix now for days.. Big booboo..
for that I would use a solder iron you run the risk of melting the plastic around the head with a torch. Not sure where abouts on the blue marble you live but just get anything like this https://www.amazon.ca/Soldering-Ele...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== and you will be good to go. Just rest the tip on the screw head for a min or two and out she will come(with a good driver ofcourse)
 
Updates to come but here's a lil preview. Updated parts list being posted soon. Just waiting on the tbr bumper and a new bigger bec to run the fans.

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So had the Kraton up and running for a bit now. The beast is running good apart from the fpv. I made a custom carbon fiber center brace, it has the ntf fan setup running off a 12v adjustable buck converter. She has the rpm wing mount and a wheelie bar now, rpm arms front and back. M2c standoffs, scorched parts steering arm. Tbr front bumper and a new white wing. She got ran over by a car the other day but I got so lucky it whent down the center and not under a wheel. It broke the body mounts and the side gaurds I made. I'm upgrading the fpv system and will post another update when that's installed.

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New side guards and updated the fpv...again. Fans are running off buck converters now and sound like turbines. Fpv works great , got some range on her now and the onboard dvr is mint for YouTube vids. Once I finally do them that is, I got plenty of footage now. Steering link screws are now my most common repair, she's a heavy pig and likes to snap them in cart wheels or wheel hits. I'm not sold on the white side gaurds yet but they are growing on me(only colour dollar store had). I have an unbreakable body on the way and a replacement set of arms for the front. Also some mud guards for the rear. She's running good for now lol



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More pictures to come, and if I get off my butt some fpv vids too.
 

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I got some major updates for ChassisSnappy coming in the next few weeks. BQ esc tray, jbi towers and battery tray, russian body for bashing, new lexan body for looking good, boca ceramic motor bearings, fully updated fpv system with help from @Lovestricken ,nice new individual cable wraps, and some more bling with some caswell dyes. That's right no more boring aluminum and painted chassis, everything is being anodized custom colours. Updates will come soon as parts trickle in when canada post delivers them.

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Was that you that I was talking to about anodizing parts a few weeks back?

Before you try to anodize them you must remove any old anodization be it color or clear, any grease, oil, dirt ect. If I remember right you can control how shiny it is by sanding the parts, the rougher the sand job the less shiny the parts will be the finer the sand job the shinier it will be.
 
Was that you that I was talking to about anodizing parts a few weeks back?

Before you try to anodize them you must remove any old anodization be it color or clear, any grease, oil, dirt ect. If I remember right you can control how shiny it is by sanding the parts, the rougher the sand job the less shiny the parts will be the finer the sand job the shinier it will be.
prob was lol I have been rersearching for a while so no doubt I asked you at some point. I got my draino ready slick. Just waiting on caswell canada to send the green dye and sealent. My power supply is on its way and I'm getting my acid and copious amounts of distilled water next week. The only parts I am re colouring are the black bulkheads, hr center diff cover on noto, and my body mounts. As far as I know jbi and m2c towers are bare aluminum, I know my m2c chassis is anodized though so that will have to be drainoed when I do the noto.
 
All stripped down and ready for anodizing.But I'm gonna let her rip a few times first. Kinda diggin'the bare aluminum and blue. New nurserts are in for my side skirts so no more fumbling with stupid nuts and screws and pliers and ya much easier now. New avid ceramics hub bearings. Let's see what I break now lol.

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