Kraton 6s v4 stl files

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

Anyone know where I can find a stl file for a Kraton v4 a arm set and or wing mount? I could rough something up but would like them to look good.

I have nylon X on the way and want to print a few parts that I go through often and see how this material hold up. Maybe even one of you geniuses on designing can throw something together for me? I will gladly compensate for your time. Been doing a ton of research and a 10% carbon/nylon mix should have enough give without all the sagging/stretching and breaking like the rpm products. Thanks in advance

 

[Camaroboy383]

Nice choice in material.. I use nylon quite a bit.. but usually in the 230, 910, and 645 from taulman.. it yields great results..

Nylon x is one material I have not tried.. mainly because I typically stay with a .4 nozzle.. if there is any moisture at all in the filament it's a guaranteed carbon clog.. I will usually use a .6 nozzle while using carbon infused filaments.. if you dry the filament and its bone dry you should have no issues.. just try to keep your retraction as low as possible..

I will dry my nylons for 2 days in a dehydrator before use and it makes worlds of difference..

Anywho, have you checked thingiverse for mounts? (I'm sure you have).. if you end up needing them designed I'm sure I can whip up a set for you without an issue..

I went through this a while back, i had every intention on modeling a set of mounts... Then I discovered printing tpu wings.. solved my issue with wing mounts.. I still use rpm, but i have not broken a set since i switched to tpu wings on all my rigs.. i was amazed how well it worked even on the 3s rigs.. the rubber wings have saved me a bunch of money on broken mounts..

Sorry for the long post man..✌let me know if you need a set modeled.. I'm sure I can help

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

Nice choice in material.. I use nylon quite a bit.. but usually in the 230, 910, and 645 from taulman.. it yields great results..

Nylon x is one material I have not tried.. mainly because I typically stay with a .4 nozzle.. if there is any moisture at all in the filament it's a guaranteed carbon clog.. I will usually use a .6 nozzle while using carbon infused filaments.. if you dry the filament and its bone dry you should have no issues.. just try to keep your retraction as low as possible..

I will dry my nylons for 2 days in a dehydrator before use and it makes worlds of difference..

Anywho, have you checked thingiverse for mounts? (I'm sure you have).. if you end up needing them designed I'm sure I can whip up a set for you without an issue..

I went through this a while back, i had every intention on modeling a set of mounts... Then I discovered printing tpu wings.. solved my issue with wing mounts.. I still use rpm, but i have not broken a set since i switched to tpu wings on all my rigs.. i was amazed how well it worked even on the 3s rigs.. the rubber wings have saved me a bunch of money on broken mounts..

Sorry for the long post man..✌let me know if you need a set modeled.. I'm sure I can help

I have checked high and low for days now.. lots of 3/4s parts but very few 6s. That would be amazing if you could do that for me.
The plans are to fire the parts out as soon as I get the material. Lol fresh out of the vacuum bag. With nylonx its only about .5kg for $80 so that isn't a whole lot of material so guessing I am only getting a few sets out of it.
I have a couple hardened nozzles on the way as well. Thanks for all your advice. I am as green as green comes to this printing stuff lol

 

[Camaroboy383]

I have checked high and low for days now.. lots of 3/4s parts but very few 6s. That would be amazing if you could do that for me.
The plans are to fire the parts out as soon as I get the material. Lol fresh out of the vacuum bag. With nylonx its only about .5kg for $80 so that isn't a whole lot of material so guessing I am only getting a few sets out of it.
I have a couple hardened nozzles on the way as well. Thanks for all your advice. I am as green as green comes to this printing stuff lol

Even out of the bag you should definitely dry it.. you can set your oven to the lowest setting..170-220f and toss it in there for a couple hours..

Half a kilo will net you alot of wing mounts.... I'd say around 30 sets worth or more.....

I'll see what I can whip up for ya brother..

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

Even out of the bag you should definitely dry it.. you can set your oven to the lowest setting..170-220f and toss it in there for a couple hours..

Half a kilo will net you alot of wing mounts.... I'd say around 30 sets worth or more.....

I'll see what I can whip up for ya brother..

Oven it is going to have to be lol. Thanks a ton man. Want a couple sets then?

 

[Camaroboy383]

Oven it is going to have to be lol. Thanks a ton man. Want a couple sets then?

No problem man, I should have some time to work on the design tonight or tomorrow night for ya......

No worries my friend.. I'm stuck on rubber wings..

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

I may have to give both a try lol

 

[bigrigcustoms]

Im also looking for someone to come up with more kraton 8s parts to print, specifically looking for a bumper

 

[jondilly1974]

Get a food dehydrator on Amazon to dry your spools

 

[ChemEng]

I love CF Nylons. Very strong, very rigid and the surface finish is really nice, the layer lines seem to disappear. I have never printed arms though, i am interested to see how this works out.

I don't know your 3d printing experience level, but nylon can be a very frustrating material to print with. You really need 3 things to be successful:

1. An all-metal hot end. The nylon printing temperatures are too hot for the PTFE in a non-metal hot end.

2. You NEED a filament dryer that you can print from. When i first started, i tried to dry it in a dehydrator, then take it out and print it.... i couldn't get through a 6 hour print before it started steaming and sputtering. The strength of your parts will be severely reduced if the nylon isn't SUPER dry through the entire print. I now print from a "print-dry pro" through a PTFE tube to the direct drive print head to minimize moisture exposure while printing.

3. You NEED good bed adhesion as nylon has a tendency to warp rather spectacularly. Several things help here, a heated bed, an enclosure (both to keep the ambient temps up and to eliminate drafts) and the correct printing surface. I recommend garolite and gluestick.

After that, it is just a matter of experimenting with settings until you get one that works. I use a 0.4 mm nozzle (hardened steel of course) with nylon x and have never had a clog, however a 0.6 would probably result in stronger prints.

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

Already printed 10 sets of wing mounts for destructive testing. A couple I different orientations,layer heights,temps and nozzle sizes. No problems at all with the printing. All has gone very well. Down to the main runner which is in the pic and now have to send a few batches out to people to test them in the field for me.