Kraton Kraton 6s v5 clicking on brakes but only after 10 minutes of bashing

[Sir Marz]

Good day Arrma fam







I've recently got an Arrma kraton 6s v5 ... after about 10 battery packs ... ive noticed after about 10 minutes of riding time when I hit the breaks its starts clicking... not grinding tho .







I've checked all the gears and diffs ... ive changed the front input gear and I've shimmed the diffs .. the front input after removing it was still fine and didn't need replacement... but I changed it anyway







But the noise doesn't go away ... initially when riding there's no noise but it comes in a bit later on ... also once it starts making the sound when braking it also makes it in reverse... but not moving forward ... ive check everything I could visually and it all seems fine ... ive checked the motor mesh and all drive train gears and they are all perfect.. ive also tightened up eveything i could .. any idea what could be clicking ... only on braking and in reverse after 10 minutes of riding time ....

 

[BashTillBroken]

put shims of the outside of the spur gear pushing it towards the pinion

 

[Sir Marz]

put shims of the outside of the spur gear pushing it towar

Already done that bud ... no change

put shims of the outside of the spur gear pushing it towards the pinion

Already done that bud ... no change

 

[SrC]

Shims.
100% Double check this.
You have a backlash issue.
To find which diff it is. Hold the rig with the front wheels down on the surface and trottle and brake. Trying simulate the noise. See where the noise comes.
From my experience it was usually in the rear diff. But my Shimming was spot on. Just a worn out rear Main/input gear more often.

put shims of the outside of the spur gear pushing it towards the pinion

+1
100%.

 

[L3phturn]

You can also have this happen if your diff case cover is not seated properly, not tight, or the screws are stripped in the housing. If you wind those screws in or out with a high speed power tool it heats up the plastic enough that it won't strip right away, but tends to fail shortly after. One of the best upgrades you can do is Hot Racing aluminum diff covers. I have found I have not needed to do the entire diff housing, just the aluminum covers seems to prevent the diff from shifting and stripping a ring and pinion.

 

[jkflow]

All of the above, maybe post a video as description of sound is always difficult.
If you can somehow isolate to front, middle or center it would help.

High level makes no sense that it only starts after 10min, shims would be all the time etc.

 

[SrC]

I say the same. All you need are the Alloy diff covers to keep the bulkheads tight and square..

All of the above, maybe post a video as description of sound is always difficult.
If you can somehow isolate to front, middle or center it would help.

High level makes no sense that it only starts after 10min, shims would be all the time etc.

I think under load and as the plastic temps heat up, the screws, bulkhead and covers start to twist, backlash ensues at this time. More prevalent..
Stocker Bulkheads wear out after a while. Threads strip out, they can warp. Need to be replaced, a cheap part that they are.
Just my guess, been there. Proper shimming is a given.

 

[Velodromed]

Do y’all mean this?

 

[jkflow]

Don't get them, waste of money.
I have them

 

[jondilly1974]

Do y’all mean this?

View attachment 218247

The Vitavon sets are a better value.

 

[21STalion]

Don't get them, waste of money.
I have them

I have them too and don't use them. Although I do use the aluminum bulkheads because they almost weigh the same as stock ...

 

[Velodromed]

I have them too and don't use them. Although I do use the aluminum bulkheads because they almost weigh the same as stock ...

Hot racing bulkheads with stock cover?
Thanks!

 

[21STalion]

Hot racing bulkheads with stock cover?
Thanks!

Yeah front and rear bulkheads combined only weight 5gr more than the composite ones which are easily worth it. Adding the covers increases the weight A LOT more, making it more of a hard sell.

But the bulkhead alone is easily worth it.


Others, have suggested just using the metal diff covers to improve the composite bulkheads. And on 1:1 cars we do use better diff covers to increase the strength of diff pumpkins.

But doing one diff cover increases they weight more than doing both bulkheads alone (very counter intuitive)

 

[Velodromed]

Yeah front and rear bulkheads combined only weight 5gr more than the composite ones which are easily worth it. Adding the covers increases the weight A LOT more, making it more of a hard sell.

But the bulkhead alone is easily worth it.


Others, have suggested just using the metal diff covers to improve the composite bulkheads. And on 1:1 cars we do use better diff covers to increase the strength of diff pumpkins.

But doing one diff cover increases they weight more than doing both bulkheads alone (very counter intuitive)

Okay cool, I totally understand now. THANK YOU!!

 

[21STalion]

Here I found my pics of the weights

You can draw your own conclusions...

 

[21STalion]

 

[SrC]

For approx. 3 grams more weight you can gain a similar/better advantage functionally speaking with using the HR Covers alone.. Cheaper as well.
The overall weight savings or 3 grams heavier, as small as it is, is a moot point, just splitting hairs. When bashing, you pick up more than 3 grams of weight
just from dirt and debris that collects. Being a weight weenie in this scenario for an off road rig makes no sense.

 

[21STalion]

For approx. 3 grams more weight you can gain a similar/better advantage functionally speaking with using the HR Covers alone.. Cheaper as well.
The overall weight savings or 3 grams heavier, as small as it is, is a moot point, just splitting hairs. When bashing, you pick up more than 3 grams of weight
just from dirt and debris that collects. Being a weight weenie in this scenario for an off road rig makes no sense.

For the sway bar covers? I agree they are worthwhile and I do use them, also the sway bars work a lot better with them.

But consider this. A single diff cover alone weighs as much as changing both diffs and sway bar covers to aluminum.

That's a disproportionate weight gain for what you're getting.

Change one part to aluminum weighs as much as changing 4 other parts to aluminum? Madness.


What we need are titanium diff covers

 

[Velodromed]

For approx. 3 grams more weight you can gain a similar/better advantage functionally speaking with using the HR Covers alone.. Cheaper as well.
The overall weight savings or 3 grams heavier, as small as it is, is a moot point, just splitting hairs. When bashing, you pick up more than 3 grams of weight
just from dirt and debris that collects. Being a weight weenie in this scenario for an off road rig makes no sense.

Do you mean running the aluminum discovers on the stock plastic bulkhead? If I’m even saying it right, I’m just trying to figure out all this

 

[jkflow]

My recommendation, do not get the metal covers by themselves, it won't prevent any damage.
Alu diffs - consider GPM, they are cheaper and of equal quality. HR was the most expensive option in the past as you had to purchase all individual pieces.

I'll stick with plastic diffs.