Kraton Kraton 6s v5 punch 5 flipping on its head and wheelie bar issues and snaking in reverse

[SrC]

Whatever your servo choice, getting a 35kg one at the very least, will be fine for the most part. Running the servo at 7.4v BEC, vs 6v will give it a boost as well. An ESC parameter setting.

>>>Again, just to remind you that The servo Saver Spring may become the weak link. Just shim it, if that becomes an issue. I use 2 circlips for shimming. Many use just one with no issues. And some don't even bother shimming. Depends on which servo saver spring came with the specific rig in hand. There were different SS springs. Some come stock with the Chrome "X-Hard spring". The firmest one. Like with my TLRT Typhon and Fireteam. I didn't need to shim the TLRT but did so with the Very heavy Fireteam.
I just like my Servo Saver on the tighter side. Start out with one circlip and evaluate for yourself. It might be enough for you IDK.
Enough Steering can be subjective for many of us.
There are videos on how to shim the SS.

 

[slick2500]

ARAC8904 and AR340061 appear to be one in the same. Identical. Arrma had part number changes over the years. This same 25 splined arm was carried over since 2009, if I am correct. Continued Across the whole 1/8 and 1/7 line of 6s Arrma's.
Last I heard, there was no revision or change made to this 25 splined Arrma part. It was actually a standard stocker part for many years . Then became available as an upgrade Option part when they switched over to the 23 spline Spektrum Branded arm to accomodate the Spektrum 23 splined stocker servo.
Do some searches on both these part numbers to confirm compatibility for yourself..
There used to be a crossover Part number sheet available years back. New numbers and Old numbers. Going back to when Hobbico owned the Arrma brand, before it went Bankrupt. HH eventually bought Arrma during Hobbico's liquidation. Some part numbers were then changed. From ARAC numbers to AR numbers. Arrma-RC.com still shows some older ARAC/ ARA numbers as do many vendor websites. There is probably still some NOS inventory labled with the Old Part numbers out there in the wild.
If you do a search for AR340061 at Arrma-rc.com, the old part number, ARAC8904 shows up.
Same identical part.

ARAC8904 is the old Hobbico part number and AR340061 is the Arrma part number. A number of the new parts can be found under 2 different parts numbers as well.

 

[Am12eaz]

Whatever your servo choice, getting a 35kg one at the very least, will be fine for the most part. Running the servo at 7.4v BEC, vs 6v will give it a boost as well. An ESC parameter setting.

>>>Again, just to remind you that The servo Saver Spring may become the weak link. Just shim it, if that becomes an issue. I use 2 circlips for shimming. Many use just one with no issues. And some don't even bother shimming. Depends on which servo saver spring came with the specific rig in hand. There were different SS springs. Some come stock with the Chrome "X-Hard spring". The firmest one. Like with my TLRT Typhon and Fireteam. I didn't need to shim the TLRT but did so with the Very heavy Fireteam.
I just like my Servo Saver on the tighter side. Start out with one circlip and evaluate for yourself. It might be enough for you IDK.
Enough Steering can be subjective for many of us.
There are videos on how to shim the wh

If I'm not smashing it on too rough a terrain or ramps or flipping it is it even worth messing about with the servo saver? In the v5 is it a exb one or is it box standard idk tbf , can I run the new servo with mount, horn etc and see if it performs well enough or is it a vital necessity?

ARAC8904 is the old Hobbico part number and AR340061 is the Arrma part number. A number of the new parts can be found under 2 different parts numbers as well.

It seems the one in the pic I posted is more than likely the one that I want for sure

 

[SrC]

Install the new Servo, Arm, and alloy Servo mount, then evaluate your steering first. See how you like it.
Before considering shimming the SS.
One step at a time, evaluate after each step.

 

[slick2500]

If I'm not smashing it on too rough a terrain or ramps or flipping it is it even worth messing about with the servo saver? In the v5 is it a exb one or is it box standard idk tbf , can I run the new servo with mount, horn etc and see if it performs well enough or is it a vital necessity?

If the truck gets much heavier than stock yes, the current ss is set on the loose side to prevent damage to the servo. I prefer an adjustable one myself but some just use the optional stiffer spring and or shim the ss.

 

[SrC]

The adjustable SS is still available.
Swapping out to the X- hard spring is next to impossible without damage.
Best to just buy this from JennysRc.

https://jennysrc.com/collections/fi...steering-set-bellcrank-top-plate-rack-ara7618
The Fireteam comes with the X-Hard spring.

Even better if you go with the TLRT Steering belcrank. Because you get the TLRT stronger Alloy Steering rack ( Ackerman Plate) along with the X-Hard spring.

https://jennysrc.com/collections/ar...ank-servosaver-ara8306?variant=39705030688822

 

[Am12eaz]

If the truck gets much heavier than stock yes, the current ss is set on the loose side to prevent damage to the servo. I prefer an adjustable one myself but some just use the optional stiffer spring and or shim the ss.

I get what you mean ....its near enough stock weight ATM bar the 2 3s lipos however I'm not a hard-core basher not many mountains or ramps here but as src stated imma throw in the alternate servo and horn and mount and see how it performs ..all parts are now on order so I guess il just have to see how it goes from here ..
One of these ? Or I prob should be getting the aluminium ss unit as a whole

 

[Am12eaz]

Hey guys how soon after running the truck should I look to shim the diffs and do the oils ?

Manual says shim after bedding in

 

[SrC]

I highly recommend checking the diffs and shimming when new out the box. Diffs are low on oil 99% of the time and factory shimming is always questionable as well.
I would do this now, whether you ran it or not yet. The choice is yours. Neglect this and your diffs won't last as long as they normally would. Either way you will be servicing all 3 diffs anyway. Might as well give them a fighting chance and do some preventive maintenance now.
There are many threads here in regards to this. Many videos also.
FWIW, I run 60k Fr/ 500k Cntr/ 20k-30k Rr CST Oil. Most here run these Oils for best performance and least diff wear.
Need a thicker oil than the stock oil, which is only 10k/100k/10k. Buy the oils before opening up your diffs. Need it on hand.
Yeah diffs do have a slight break-in to them. I usually do some tight figure eights with my rig after a rebuild. Build up speed gradually. Or use my drill with the diffs in hand before installing them. Another topic altogether.
Personally I rebuild my whole rig when new out the box before running it. But that is just me. Many don't.
Absolutely go over each and every screw, if anything.

 

[Am12eaz]

I highly recommend checking the diffs and shimming when new out the box. Diffs are low on oil 99% of the time and factory shimming is always questionable as well.
I would do this now, whether you ran it or not yet. The choice is yours. Neglect this and your diffs won't last as long as they normally would. Either way you will be servicing all 3 diffs anyway. Might as well give them a fighting chance and do some preventive maintenance now.
There are many threads here in regards to this. Many videos also.
FWIW, I run 60k Fr/ 500k Cntr/ 20k-30k Rr CST Oil. Most here run these Oils for best performance and least diff wear.
Need a thicker oil than the stock oil, which is only 10k/100k/10k. Buy the oils before opening up your diffs. Need it on hand.
Yeah diffs do have a slight break-in to them. I usually do some tight figure eights with my rig after a rebuild. Build up speed gradually. Or use my drill with the diffs in hand before installing them. Another topic altogether.
Personally I rebuild my whole rig when new out the box before running it. But that is just me. Many don't.
Absolutely go over each and every screw, if anything.

I was going to do the diffs and just top up on stock oils to start with as advised by someone on another thread to be fair when I was out with it yesterday it seemed to be good on the way it felt...I may replace standard oils with new and shim if needed and work it out a few runs on from there in terms of how I want to run it. As I mentioned it's mainly grass field and tarmac here so don't want a set up for crazy bashing or somersaults in the air if you know what I mean

 

[SrC]

The thicker oils are necessary for the reasons I stated above. Not necessarily how you "PLAN" on driving it.
Buy the recommended oils stated above and use it to merely top off as needed, if that's what you want to do. Stock oil is simply way too thin, so don't waste your $$ on buying "stock" CST oil. RC Silicone oil is not cheap in general, FWIW.
Diffs usually need a clean out and rebuild every 15-20 packs. Your mileage will vary. Or you can just drive them till they fail and replace parts more often. The choice is yours. Rebuilding diffs is another topic discussed in other threads. Search AF or Start another thread when you need some guidance. Videos as well.
If anyone is telling you the stock oil is fine, they are misinformed, incorrect and so will you be. This is the Arrma Forum. Much evaluation and actual real use dictates the many recomendations you get here.
This is not a LHS with general RC advice, for instance.
AF offers very specific ways to run your Arrma. Based on exper. by others over many years.

Enjoy

 

[Am12eaz]

The thicker oils are necessary for the reasons I stated above. Not necessarily how you "PLAN" on driving it.
Buy the recommended oils stated above and use it to merely top off as needed, if that's what you want to do. Stock oil is simply way too thin.
Diffs usually need a clean out and rebuild every 15-20 packs. Your mileage will vary. Or you can just drive them till they fail and replace parts more often. The choice is yours. Rebuilding diffs is another topic discussed in other threads. Search AF or Start another thread when you need some guidance. Videos as well.
If anyone is telling you the stock oil is fine, they are misinformed, incorrect and so will you be. Tjis is the Arrma Forum. Much evaluation and actual real use dictates the many recomendations you get here.

K noted I believe the centre diff on the v5 comes with 500k oil which I already have so I will do that one first and then pick up the other two and do them in a couple days ...the weather isn't great at the moment so I will probably not even run it until all my parts and diffs are done !! Thanks

 

[SrC]

Kraton V5 does not come with 500k stock at center.
Again, Stock oil is only 10k/100k/10k. Check the manual again for yourself.
Good that you already have 500k oil on hand.
Edit.
The center diff can and will literally Melt from heat with 100k. Been there.

 

[slick2500]

The thicker oils are necessary for the reasons I stated above. Not necessarily how you "PLAN" on driving it.
Buy the recommended oils stated above and use it to merely top off as needed, if that's what you want to do. Stock oil is simply way too thin, so don't waste your $$ on buying "stock" CST oil. RC Silicone oil is not cheap in general, FWIW.
Diffs usually need a clean out and rebuild every 15-20 packs. Your mileage will vary. Or you can just drive them till they fail and replace parts more often. The choice is yours. Rebuilding diffs is another topic discussed in other threads. Search AF or Start another thread when you need some guidance. Videos as well.
If anyone is telling you the stock oil is fine, they are misinformed, incorrect and so will you be. This is the Arrma Forum. Much evaluation and actual real use dictates the many recomendations you get here.
This is not a LHS with general RC advice, for instance.
AF offers very specific ways to run your Arrma. Based on exper. by others over many years.

Enjoy

Sure the stock oil is fine if you like ballooning the front tires constantly. I'm not sure what Arrmas thoughts were on the diffs in these, they are set too thick for racing and too thin for bashing imho.

 

[SrC]

If you run on 4s, and perhaps on a confined track geared for 35mph tops, the stock oils may have a slight fighting chance and benefit somehow. But most 1/8 Truggies run much thinner oils for track running, I agree. Like 3k/7k/2-3k, the only way to drive on a confined track gracefully.
The Fireteam is the only one having 200K at center diff out the box. A Metal Center stock diff at that. I now run aprox 700k and the FT center diff still reaches close to 200F all the time. Seems all these 6s line off roaders need a metal center diff, or they can potentially melt plastic ones easily??

 

[Am12eaz]

Sure the stock oil is fine if you like ballooning the front tires constantly. I'm not sure what Arrmas thoughts were on the diffs in these, they are set too thick for racing and too thin for bashing imho.

What would you recommend for thr vorteks 10k standard

 

[SrC]

I myself don't have any Arrma 4x4's, but I see many running as high as 30k. F+R.

 

[Am12eaz]

I don't have Arrma 4x4's, but I see many running as high as 30k. F+R.

Might try a 20k front and back

 

[SrC]

Smart move, evaluate from there. That's what I would do myself. 20k to start. However, I find with the 6s line, running thinner at the Rear (1/2 thinner to start) than the front gives you more steering, FWIW. So try doing 20k in the front only first. Leave 10k at rear. Evaluate from there. Sometimes too thick in the rear makes it harder to control. And the 4x4 line are rather light to begin with. Probably want to maintain more traction at the rear. This can be subjective to how you drive as well. We all have different expectations. Make one change at a time and evaluate from there.

 

[Am12eaz]

Smart move, evaluate from there. That's what I would do myself. 20k to start. I find with the 6s line, running thinner at the Rear (1/2 thinner to start) than the front gives you more steering, FWIW. So try doing 20k in the front only first. Evaluate from there.

I'm guessing that given the size of the vehicle also accounts for the way the diffs react to turns etc the vorteks being considerably smaller and a lot more agile may just work with a slightly heavier oil ...