Kraton Kraton 6s vs Maxx

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A tip for anybody with burshless motor-ESC combo's:
- Make shure wire A is connected to wire A, B to B etc. Don't mix that up. If it's going in reverse, switch the direction with the settings, not by switching wires.

If the wires aren't correct, the motor will run with less torque. When I put my MAX10 SCT in my Slash 4x4, it felt 'soft', and non-agressive. After months, my uncle made a comment about it, I switched my wires and switched the motor rotation direction with the settings, and it went FASTER and accellerated WAAYY better.

Check your wires, guys!
Pretty much what I said
 
I just traded my maxx for a kraton 6s.

i think you made a good call. Whenever i see folks driving the maxx, it looks like a fat minivan. I know how fast and impressive it is.. but you would never catch me driving a minivan in real life, so no maxx for me.

In the words of AB, the fat hoes go, the fit babes stay.

welcome to arrma club.
 
A tip for anybody with burshless motor-ESC combo's:
- Make shure wire A is connected to wire A, B to B etc. Don't mix that up. If it's going in reverse, switch the direction with the settings, not by switching wires.

If the wires aren't correct, the motor will run with less torque. When I put my MAX10 SCT in my Slash 4x4, it felt 'soft', and non-agressive. After months, my uncle made a comment about it, I switched my wires and switched the motor rotation direction with the settings, and it went FASTER and accellerated WAAYY better.

Check your wires, guys!
How confident can we be that the color coding on the motor and esc wires is correct from the factory?
 
Look in the manual what comes first
for example HW has all black connectors marked with A, B and C
while Traxxas has Blue (A), Yellow (B) and White (C).

All ESCs and motors have the same A-B-C order, but colors differ
 
Thanks for all the help guys. I will get a little run time here tomorrow. Things I am noticing is it seems like the arrma needs more maintenance compared to the maxx but I’m ok with that. Not a fan of how the diff cases are open but I used grease to kind of seal the entire thing. Still need to replace the front cvd they are both bent and change my shock spring and oil. Also put thinner oil in the front diff.
 
Thanks for all the help guys. I will get a little run time here tomorrow. Things I am noticing is it seems like the arrma needs more maintenance compared to the maxx but I’m ok with that. Not a fan of how the diff cases are open but I used grease to kind of seal the entire thing. Still need to replace the front cvd they are both bent and change my shock spring and oil. Also put thinner oil in the front diff.
No experience with the Maxx myself, but I do find the Arrma 6S line to need a bit more maintenance compared to the 3S line. I assume you're referring to the gearbox and not the diff cases themselves being open. I put a gasket between the gearbox and chassis which works really well to keep dirt and sand out. You can pick them up from Tekjo on ebay or other sellers for a few bucks.
 
No experience with the Maxx myself, but I do find the Arrma 6S line to need a bit more maintenance compared to the 3S line. I assume you're referring to the gearbox and not the diff cases themselves being open. I put a gasket between the gearbox and chassis which works really well to keep dirt and sand out. You can pick them up from Tekjo on ebay or other sellers for a few bucks.
Yeah the gear box. I call them the diff case because the diff is inside. I was thinking of making a gasket for it as well.
 
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