Kraton Kraton 8s EXB. XLX2, 1100KV motor and 30/47 gearing. Raminator servo

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Did the chassis bend too?
It doesn't look like it. But someone said how can that be if that top brace bent so badly? I'll have to take a closer look at it. From what I've seen with the naked eye, it doesn't look bent. I'll probably put a straight edge on the chassis to see what's up.
 
So after installing the Arrma shock springs, now the Rovan shocks feel better. I was thinking about running the front stock shocks and keeping the Rovan shocks in the rear temporarily since I don't have the EXB shocks with me yet. Sounds like a dumb idea right? The ride height seems to be the same for the front and rear. It's just a toy. It's not like I'm going to be riding inside it like a real car ot something. Heck I think it would be a good experiment too 😂.
 
All fixed up. I noticed that the Rovan shocks have barely any bounce back? So I'm assuming it's the springs that are too weak. Not sure. I asked Megasty about it. I put 80wt on the front and 70wt on the rear ones.
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Yeah, @Megasty mentioned this in the 10mm shock shaft thread. The springs that come with the front Rovans are way too weak, I used the stock arrma ones like he suggested on the Rovan shocks (not a perfect fit, but will make do...). You also have to be extra careful, I ordered the rear shock tower for the front on my K8s, if you put them on the stock front Kraton tower, chassis slap in the front is not possible anymore because it "bottoms out" on the shocks instead of the chassis, which is really not what you want. I only ran the car once since installation, might give an update soon. I went with 6'000 cst all around.
 
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Yeah, @Megasty mentioned this in the 10mm shock shaft thread. The springs that come with the front Rovans are way too weak, I used the stock arrma ones like he suggested on the Rovan shocks (not a perfect fit, but will make do...). You also have to be extra careful, I ordered the rear shock tower for the front on my K8s, if you put them on the stock front Kraton tower, chassis slap in the front is not possible anymore because it "bottoms out" on the shocks instead of the chassis, which is really not what you want. I only run the car once since installation, might give an update soon. I went with 6'000 cst all around.
Yeah you need that shock tower in order for them to work correctly since they are way longer than the front K8S shocks. Yeah the Arrma spring doesn't fit perfectly but it looks good enough. I need to test the rest of my EXB K8S (ESC, motor and servo) so I'll probably run the stock shocks in the front and the Rovan shocks in the rear. No biggie.
 
Yeah you need that shock tower in order for them to work correctly since they are way longer than the front K8S shocks. Yeah the Arrma spring doesn't fit perfectly but it looks good enough. I need to test the rest of my EXB K8S (ESC, motor and servo) so I'll probably run the stock shocks in the front and the Rovan shocks in the rear. No biggie.
Should work out fine, quite curious to see your findings with the EXB shocks compared to the Rovan shocks since you seem to jump quite high like I do :DHow is your ESC-fan holding up?
 
Should work out fine, quite curious to see your findings with the EXB shocks compared to the Rovan shocks since you seem to jump quite high like I do :DHow is your ESC-fan holding up?
On the XLX2? I guarantee it will get damaged on the first run with big jumps. I put a powerhobby aluminum fan it (not the best fit) and it's been working fine like that. I did have to modify the fan connection which is no biggie. Also the power switch gets eliminated too. So yeah, the stock fan sucks.
 
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Should work out fine, quite curious to see your findings with the EXB shocks compared to the Rovan shocks since you seem to jump quite high like I do :DHow is your ESC-fan holding up?
I tried test out the shocks today but I was too lazy to check my outer diffs. So my rear one started making noise. Took it apart and found out that the case was probably loose from factory or it loosened up on its own. Only the case got damaged so I'm lucky. Aluminum diff cases are a must for this heavy beast. I also installed the M2C hinge pin retainers since I was in that area. I'll have to try again :
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I tried test out the shocks today but I was too lazy to check my outer diffs. So my rear one started making noise. Took it apart and found out that the case was probably loose from factory or it loosened up on its own. Only the case got damaged so I'm lucky. Aluminum diff cases are a must for this heavy beast. I also installed the M2C hinge pin retainers since I was in that area. I'll have to try again :
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I need to add that diff case to my parts list...
 
I need to add that diff case to my parts list...
Your plastic diff cases will explode eventually sooner or later. On another note my bad luck continues with the K8S EXB. After rebuilding both front and rear diffs and saving the rear diff from damage I tried running it today again and I still had horrible grinding noise. So I took out the center diff since the noise was coming from there. It's my fault since I didn't tighten the bolts on the diff housing correctly. That damaged the center diff internally so I had to order a diff case/transmission. Another $80 in the mistake pile. So my beast is down until next Monday at least. Oh well.
 
Finally put this monster back together. I think that those Yowoo 100C 6000mAh batteries may have something to do with the fact that I can get double backflips easily. I'm impressed. My Outcast 8s was running 34/39 gearing with the XLX2 and 800kv motor and it felt so much slower. But the Outcast was using the Turnigy Rapids 5500mAh 140C batteries. Those batteries get hot to the touch while the graphene ones are just warm. I'm going to make a thread comparing these two mosnters. Video coming.
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Another run. This time I bent the rear chassis lips where the rear arms sit, just like I bent the stock O8S stock chassis. I was able to bend it back with a freaking little rubber mallet 😱. I broke the rear hinge pin on that rear arm too with that last landing. Pictures and video posted. EXB related stuff on the video are at the 3:43 and 8:56 marks. This thing is going to need an M2C chassis no doubt. The rear arm didn't break, but the hole where the hinge pin goes got enlarged.
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Found more damage from that crazy jump. I actually broke a bolt off the M2C hinge pin block, found that the front hinge pin block was loose and the rear hinge pin block was slightly bent. Wow. The actual arm had less damage than all the other parts. That's funny. I removed the broken bolt easily and hammered back the hinge pin to straightness. You can see where the chassis is slightly bent. I had some of those bolts in my extra parts. The hinge pin and arm were also in my extra parts.
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M2C chassis installed. I also replaced the GPM diff cases since the little bolts holding the ring gear to the case are way too small and they came loose with time. Arrma diff cases have way longer bolts.
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Get the
I need to add that diff case to my parts list...
Get the Arrma ones instead. My GPM ones failed after a few runs. Those bolts on the GPM cases are way too small.
Tested out the new Arrma diff cases and the new M2C chassis on my K8S. My son put in some work with the O8S on 30% power. Kaiju action at the end too :
 
Should work out fine, quite curious to see your findings with the EXB shocks compared to the Rovan shocks since you seem to jump quite high like I do :DHow is your ESC-fan holding up?
EXB shocks and shock rod ends are still going strong after many jumps . Way better than than the Rovan shocks that started leaking almost immediately.
 
I had a horrible landing right on the roof and I broke a shock rod end. That one was on me though. It's weird that it broke though with an upside down landing 🤔
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The horrible landing is in this video
 
After a couple of bash sessions, my powerhobby XLX2 fan fell apart. I sent a message to powerhobby about it. The plastic on it is just too weak. Don't buy it. And I bought two like a dummy
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