Kraton Kraton Ar723328 - M3x28mm - Screws - Sold Locally for anyone?

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Screws snapping isn't very common. Though a lot of members will usually have some of the easier to break parts on hand, A-arms, tie rods, bumpers, hubs, dog bones/cvd's... Another good thing to stock up on, I feel, are the hinge pins/screws around the wheels and hub areas. I tend to bend those alot myself.
I get the hardware kits from Jenny's and I bought a parts box at Home depot and organized a screw assortment kit for all my rigs. Comes in handy. BTW stay away from Stainless steel, they are softer and the heads strip easily and these can bend.. They are ok for un stressed parts thought in a pinch. 12.9 grade Arrma hardware is the best. Just get a few kitted hardware kits from Jenny'sRC. \
But I have not bent or lost any screws in my 6S rigs. You might want to examine why this is happening.

BTW,Also, clean your screws in a solvent before installing, as the factory oils up the screws when they are built. Because they are "fresh cutting" the threads on all the new plastics. You will notice that there is oil all over the chassis and screws when its new out the box. This is normal.

:cool:
I’m trying to remove that screw that you showed in that video.. that does look easiet. However that screw won’t come out. I got the bondhus 10686 kit. I thought I read those recommended here.
Got it. Thanks boys!
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The REASON why you stripped that upper arm hinge pin.....IS because you are using a ball driver. (n)Never use a ball driver unless you are in a jam and need it. Bondus is good quality, just that you shoud be using a straight Hex driver in 99% of those screws. Trust me on this. That hinge pin will never strip the head with a straight hex.
BTW, adjusting your Shock Droop in addition to removing the pillow ball/arm shims will prevent popped dog bones.
 
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Not sure, these don't have the threads cut all the way. You don't need them threaded all the way, but not sure how much
Hinge pin bolts are unique and specific. Need arma replacements.
 
It was the red screws. They were WAY too tight. Another rookie mistake.
And since those were too loose, apparently, the ball joint popped out and I can’t get it back in lmao.
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we were talking about upper shock mount bolts, I believe
Yes upper hinge pin bolts are unique because the shank is a wider diameter( where arms rotate) than the threaded area. The threads are cut to a smaller diameter than the shanked area. It would be hard to find a similar bolt in a hardware store. I already tried to find them. Nothing will work that I saw. The arm must rotate on a "thread free" portion of that hinge pin bolt or the arms will crap out. This bolt appears to be Arrma proprietary hardware.:unsure::cool:
 
Ehm. Shock mount bolts. Up there on the top of the tower ?
 
I’m trying to remove that screw that you showed in that video.. that does look easiet. However that screw won’t come out. I got the bondhus 10686 kit. I thought I read those recommended here.
Got it. Thanks boys!
View attachment 76757
How in the wide wide world of sports did you strip that screw? Seriously my upper suspension mount is aluminum and those pins are held in by red threadlock and grub screws and I have never stripped them even with a cheapo allen key.
 
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we were talking about upper shock mount bolts, I believe
Yeah, that was the first issue. It’s getting to be a bit of a can of worms. That kit I mentioned in my post has all that stuff. Hinge pins, shock bolts, shock stays, those little plastic shims that fly out...all of it...20$...
 
Lmfao. So out for our second bashing sesh. Started sounding funny when I went WOT so pulled it over and find the pinion gear slid back?? I put blue loctite on this thing too. Just installed it.

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Lmfao. So out for our second bashing sesh. Started sounding funny when I went WOT so pulled it over and find the pinion gear slid back?? I put blue loctite on this thing too. Just installed it.

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Just installed it today or yesterday? Pretty much any threadlock needs at least 24 hours to cure.
 
Don't forget to clean the threads before you add loctite. Not uncommon that old thread locker or a bit of grease ruins the day.
One thing I've seen happen before, the screw will not go all the way down and only seem to tighten up.
Old stuff blocked the threads and the screw stopped before it hiot the shaft. Take off the pinion and see if the screw actually goes down all the way. Clean it and redo with blue, let it cure for 24h and you should be ok.
 
That hinge pin bolt above may need to be pulled out by force. Once it is unscrewed, if it doesn’t slide out it is bent from a crash. Looks like the guys here are taking good care of you so I’ll stay out of it. Only thing I’d add is to get a hardware kit or two from Jenny’s rc. The kraton6s one is oos but the outcast one is in https://jennysrc.com/collections/arrma-outcast/products/outcast-screws
It will have pretty much every screw you need plus and extra cross wrench to put in your carry bag.
Jim
So should I wait for the Kraton kit to be in stock or is this the same?? Thanks again for all the help guys.. I've been on forums for a LONG TIME and this one is one of the best as far as helpfulness and people just being kind all around.. Thanks again.
 
So should I wait for the Kraton kit to be in stock or is this the same?? Thanks again for all the help guys.. I've been on forums for a LONG TIME and this one is one of the best as far as helpfulness and people just being kind all around.. Thanks again.
It’s pretty much the same kit as the Kraton. The Kraton and outcast share much of the same parts. Besides the chassis, rear driveshaft, rear brace, body, and body mounts. The kit will have most of the bolts, you need. The only thing hardware wise missing is steering parts. They sell that as a whole unit.
 
I didn't have my glasses on and was looking at my phone, ha getting old and that sucks.
 
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