Kraton Kraton Ar723328 - M3x28mm - Screws - Sold Locally for anyone?
- Thread starter ts2340
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
slick2500
Anything will break if you drive it wrong enough.
Community Leader
Premium Member
ArrmaForum Fan
Excellence Award
Build Thread Contributor
- Messages
- 26,720
- Reaction score
- 42,024
- Location
- Rapid City, SD
- Arrma RC's
- Fireteam
- Kraton 6s
- Kraton EXB
- Outcast 6s
- Senton 3s
- Typhon 3s
Or instead of wasting your time over and over replacing those darn M3 screws you could just buy the M2C Racing shock standoffs and never have to worry about them again. https://m2cracing.net/arrma/390-m2c3080-arrma-shock-tower-stand-off-kit.html
- Thread starter
- #23
So I get some that worked at Home Depot. Went like 5 minutes and this happened. The last 3 times I’ve gone out I’ve gotten five minutes each. Ugh.. I was hoping it would be an on site repair but I couldn’t figure it out.
How bad is this? Thanks
How bad is this? Thanks
That sucks. All you need to bring is a set of hex wrenches and you can fix just about anything!
it happens as the arms stretch. you need to loosen the pillow balls to pop it back in (or remove one of the hinge pins).
remove the clips under the pillow balls to keep the dogbone tighter and prevent this.
remove the clips under the pillow balls to keep the dogbone tighter and prevent this.
jondilly1974
Speed running apprentice, motor Slayer 🤘
Lifetime Premium!
Premium Member
Excellence Award
Build Thread Contributor
- Messages
- 26,134
- Reaction score
- 38,838
- Location
- Toledo, OH
- Arrma RC's
- Granite
- Infraction
- Kraton 6s
- Kraton EXB
- Senton 3s
- Typhon 6s
- Typhon 3s
Did you remove the screw holding it in?
It unscrews out of the middle. I didn’t know at first either?
jkflow
TB RC Bashers
Lifetime Premium!
Premium Member
Excellence Award
Hospitality Award
Build Thread Contributor
@ts2340 Do it my way, it's a lot faster and can be done in the field with no issues.
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/how-to-place-driveshaft-back-into-the-cup.20150/
For your issue:
There is a grub screw inside that holds the pin, probably covered by dirt. Has tons of loctite if this is your first time, heat it up with a torch or soldering iron. Most likely you will strip the screw.
Do it my way and get on with bashing.
To avoid this altogether, remover those spacers and washers on upper and lower arms and this will become less of an issue.
Edit: There is no loctite in that bolt i.e. stripping it takes some poopy tools. Buy yourself a better set and a new pin.
You can either hammer in a torx bit or dremel your way into it i.e. slit and use a screwdriver
https://www.arrmaforum.com/threads/how-to-place-driveshaft-back-into-the-cup.20150/
For your issue:
There is a grub screw inside that holds the pin, probably covered by dirt. Has tons of loctite if this is your first time, heat it up with a torch or soldering iron. Most likely you will strip the screw.
Do it my way and get on with bashing.
To avoid this altogether, remover those spacers and washers on upper and lower arms and this will become less of an issue.
Edit: There is no loctite in that bolt i.e. stripping it takes some poopy tools. Buy yourself a better set and a new pin.
You can either hammer in a torx bit or dremel your way into it i.e. slit and use a screwdriver
Last edited:
Use a soldering iron or a mini torch to heat it up
- Thread starter
- #32
I’m trying to remove that screw that you showed in that video.. that does look easiet. However that screw won’t come out. I got the bondhus 10686 kit. I thought I read those recommended here.
Got it. Thanks boys!
Last edited:
jkflow
TB RC Bashers
Lifetime Premium!
Premium Member
Excellence Award
Hospitality Award
Build Thread Contributor
Ok, those are good tools, odd, but never a guarantee and maybe the bolt was weak or soft.
At any rate you would want to replace it but for now leave it alone . No need to replace it and you can order new ones while still bashing. Now you have to work your way from the other side. While doing that, removes those spacers on upper and lower arm to avoid this altogether.
DO NOT START UNLESS YOU HAVE A soldering iron or torch to heat up that screw and melt the loctite.
At any rate you would want to replace it but for now leave it alone . No need to replace it and you can order new ones while still bashing. Now you have to work your way from the other side. While doing that, removes those spacers on upper and lower arm to avoid this altogether.
DO NOT START UNLESS YOU HAVE A soldering iron or torch to heat up that screw and melt the loctite.
jkflow
TB RC Bashers
Lifetime Premium!
Premium Member
Excellence Award
Hospitality Award
Build Thread Contributor
Get yourself WERA tools (2&2.5mm) or MIP.
Looks like they just cranked up their prices, I got mine for $6. MIP or Wera won't have this issue, stay away from chinese knockoff tools. The toolsets come in handy AFTER the initial removal. They used red loctite and you should re-seat with blue loctite.
You will never need high quality for 1.5mm i.e. safe that money.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00365EYJY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.miponline.com/MIP-Speed-Tip-Hex-Driver-Wrench-Set-Metric-3-1-5mm-2-0mm-and-2-5mm-9512
Looks like they just cranked up their prices, I got mine for $6. MIP or Wera won't have this issue, stay away from chinese knockoff tools. The toolsets come in handy AFTER the initial removal. They used red loctite and you should re-seat with blue loctite.
You will never need high quality for 1.5mm i.e. safe that money.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00365EYJY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.miponline.com/MIP-Speed-Tip-Hex-Driver-Wrench-Set-Metric-3-1-5mm-2-0mm-and-2-5mm-9512
- Messages
- 4,248
- Reaction score
- 7,413
- Location
- SE PA
- Arrma RC's
- Kraton 8S
- Kraton 6s
- Mojave EXB
- Outcast 6s
- Talion
- Typhon 6s
That hinge pin bolt above may need to be pulled out by force. Once it is unscrewed, if it doesn’t slide out it is bent from a crash. Looks like the guys here are taking good care of you so I’ll stay out of it. Only thing I’d add is to get a hardware kit or two from Jenny’s rc. The kraton6s one is oos but the outcast one is in https://jennysrc.com/collections/arrma-outcast/products/outcast-screws
It will have pretty much every screw you need plus and extra cross wrench to put in your carry bag.
Jim
It will have pretty much every screw you need plus and extra cross wrench to put in your carry bag.
Jim
jkflow
TB RC Bashers
Lifetime Premium!
Premium Member
Excellence Award
Hospitality Award
Build Thread Contributor
NO! but easily confused.
The one at the red arrow and there is a similar one on the lower arm.
Remove both.
The one at the red arrow and there is a similar one on the lower arm.
Remove both.
jkflow
TB RC Bashers
Lifetime Premium!
Premium Member
Excellence Award
Hospitality Award
Build Thread Contributor
Doublecheck that your diveshaft is back in the cup and nothing is blocking the steering.
Servo seems fine but something blocking your steering, this is unrelated to what yuou have (should have) done, maybe an intentional sideeffect.
Was it working before you started? Possible that you've bend something when you had the hit.
Check the 'ackerman' plate (search the forum, tends to bend. A little more involved to remove.
Follow the mechanical path for your steering, servo is turning, servo saver is not turning i.e. it's probably underneath that entire steering hub.
Servo seems fine but something blocking your steering, this is unrelated to what yuou have (should have) done, maybe an intentional sideeffect.
Was it working before you started? Possible that you've bend something when you had the hit.
Check the 'ackerman' plate (search the forum, tends to bend. A little more involved to remove.
Follow the mechanical path for your steering, servo is turning, servo saver is not turning i.e. it's probably underneath that entire steering hub.
