Kraton Kraton diff oil

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SMandavy

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Arrma RC's
Hi all,
I know this has been previously addressed however I would like to know what diff oils you are all running F/C/R please....
 
Hi all,
I know this has been previously addressed however I would like to know what diff oils you are all running F/C/R please....
I tried 500k center in my ET48.3 hut learned I actually like more diff action on the center.

My point in mentioning is that when I do my diffs in the Kraton and Senton soon here, I'll probably go with 30 front, 50 center, 10 rear. Something like that.
 
Losi diff oil 7000 front 10000 center 3000 rear sam as what i run in my buggy most of time
 
Im doing 50 front 500 middle 30 rear as we speak. I'm running Castle Creation Mamba Monster X, 6S, and the 2200KV motor. Pro-Line Badlands. I hope to keep the fronts down and less ballooning.
 
Front - 30K
Center - 500K
Rear - 10K

Im doing 50 front 500 middle 30 rear as we speak. I'm running Castle Creation Mamba Monster X, 6S, and the 2200KV motor. Pro-Line Badlands. I hope to keep the fronts down and less ballooning.

With 500K in the center and big power that front end is gonna come up in a hurry!
 
It comes up in a hurry now from squatting the rear . I figure heavy 500 center diff oil would be better to stop the front tires from blowing up. My driving area is pretty high bite. A wheelie bar is going on my build and some throttle programming to smooth it out. IDK....still experimenting. I have a Spektrum DX4S installed and the Mamba Monster X with the computer interface. You can program one function of the Monster X to your transmitter. Wonder if I should put some sort of punch control on it or top end power reducer for tamer driving on a switch when needed ??? All I have is a 6S pack now. I can't see why you can't just program 2 Kratons into the TX...one wild and one more wilder. ?
 
Last edited:
Hi all,
I know this has been previously addressed however I would like to know what diff oils you are all running F/C/R please....
Just changed mine... out of the box i pulled center and put 50k in thwn last week i pulled front and rear added 100k rear and 50k front with a little 100k to thicken it up 3/4 50k 1/4 100k. Im happy with how it works still a rocket ship.
 
I tried 500k center in my ET48.3 hut learned I actually like more diff action on the center.

My point in mentioning is that when I do my diffs in the Kraton and Senton soon here, I'll probably go with 30 front, 50 center, 10 rear. Something like that.
What would 100k in the centre achieve, I don't have 50 on hand?
 
I think I may ditch the 500K in the center diff idea. I'll test my new motor and ESC with stock diff oil and see how it works. I think the stock center diff is 10,000 and I ran it on 6S with the stock ESC and motor. It was pretty decent. I may have to go up some with the CC Mamba Monster X and the 2200 KV. IDK yet....I'm still new to this Kraton.
 
The 50k center is working well for me, 100k rear and about 75ishk front... 100k in center wouldent hurt anything imo... i never ran it with stock center, i pulled it out of the box and pulled center diff replaced fluid with 50k... ran well then last week i did front and rear.im loving the arrmas, the kraton launches and handles awesome
 
The 50k center is working well for me, 100k rear and about 75ishk front... 100k in center wouldent hurt anything imo... i never ran it with stock center, i pulled it out of the box and pulled center diff replaced fluid with 50k... ran well then last week i did front and rear.im loving the arrmas, the kraton launches and handles awesome
....yeah my V2 will be here tomorrow and going to do the same before I run it, have a V1 and bash the snot out of it, they're a beast
 
How many cells Josh ? I ran my brand new Kraton around my front yard like 3 times stock. It's already got a new motor, ESC, tires and radio gear installed. IDK...I prefer using Castle Creation ESC's with the data link. The stock ESC and motor was pretty sweet. It's crazy that I tore it all out already. I can't leave anything alone for long. I will leave the diffs as is...then investigate the difference as I go. I think I'm going to end up at 50K also in the center. Bad A$$ rig it is.
 
6s every day all day lol... i put 4s in when my girl runs it she scared of 6s... i think it has tons of power... i have a 2650kv in my stampede with a.mm2... and i have ammx sitting on my workbench. Had it in my xmaxx for while but put stock back.in when i was gonna sell it... since deciding to keep it i haven't bothered to swap it back... been running the kraton and nero mostly..

How many cells Josh ? I ran my brand new Kraton around my front yard like 3 times stock. It's already got a new motor, ESC, tires and radio gear installed. IDK...I prefer using Castle Creation ESC's with the data link. The stock ESC and motor was pretty sweet. It's crazy that I tore it all out already. I can't leave anything alone for long. I will leave the diffs as is...then investigate the difference as I go. I think I'm going to end up at 50K also in the center. Bad A$$ rig it is.
Why not just swap esc? The castle motor is 2200kv... kraton motor is 2050kv... my kraton with the stock gearing not speed pinion with badlands was dead even with buddys erevo thats geared and also running badlands... if i had stock tires on it i would have smoked him
 
I know...it is a sweet motor, wish they kept it that nice red color and I wish CC was not green. You can't win 100% in this hobby. I just hate when my RC vehicles end up with green and red together. Not a big deal...just hate the 2 colors together. I've been running Castle Creation in everything I have for many years.....I'm just use to them. I never give anything else a chance, but I should. If I showed you all my rc vehicles....you would see nothing but green motors.:D
 
Yeah castle is sweet... im pretty new but i do like the castle and im partial to green... i had the mmx in my xmaxx and left stock motor it was a night and day diffrence from stock esc. I like the castle link it is an awesome tool and has lots of adjustability.... when i run 3s in my stampede i turn power down to 75% beacuse any more and it is outa control and wheelies over no matter how easy i roll on it... you can remove red anodizing with mean green i belive... or something like that... just throw parts in and let em soak presto changeo no more red....
 
I've used Easy-Off oven cleaner in the past to remove anodizing. I may do it this winter. I have a 2 wheel drive stampede with a 4 pole CC motor in it. I absolutely love this Stampede . I tuned the throttle curve with the ESC and turned the punch down. I have Team Associated 12mm big bores in it, Traxxas CVD's in the rear. RPM trans case and plate. The RPM wide A-arms. I'm running Pro-Line Gladiators on all 4 corners. A Pro-Line Bull dog body. This little rig shreds so nice and is real fun. We have 2 Stampedes to race in the back yard (me and my 2 sons). Very fun they are.
 
I know...it is a sweet motor, wish they kept it that nice red color and I wish CC was not green. You can't win 100% in this hobby. I just hate when my RC vehicles end up with green and red together. Not a big deal...just hate the 2 colors together. I've been running Castle Creation in everything I have for many years.....I'm just use to them. I never give anything else a chance, but I should. If I showed you all my rc vehicles....you would see nothing but green motors.:D
These Castle motors do come in black if you purchase the traxxas equivalent of them. Same exact motor made by castle only they say traxxas on the back and are black. Can be had for like $80 + shipping new on ebay all day also. I may go this route myself with my kraton as i don't think the green would go with the color scheme as well but i have yet to try the stock electronics so id like to do that 1st. Plus i now see Josh says his runs even with the Erevo wich has a castle 2200kv motor stock so maybe ill stay stock motor and just upgrade my esc.
 
I did see the black Traxxas motors but I wasn't sure if they were the same. I just ran my Kraton out in the street for the first time with the Mamba Monster X, 2200KV, 6S, 35C-70C, 14 tooth pinion. I started out with Punch at 80%, max throttle 80 % and a gradual throttle curve that started going up hard at 80% throttle. Stock diff's. (nothing done). The truck is very fast, smooth and controllable. I could hit the throttle fast and unload that diff fast but I wasn't getting easy wheel stands and big balloons. I could also not let the front diff unload by easing the throttle slower. It was smooth and fast. I'll play around with punch, throttle curve, and max power a little. I think a little bit heavier center diff oil is going to be good.
 
I Am running 6S , stock gearing , the stock V2 tires 30/50/20 and IMO the center is borderline too heavy, the truck is a wheely monster and can be a little tricky to put power down without it wheelying over on itself... I tried 120K and 300K and I didn't like it at all, the handling took a dump and the truck became to unstable to put any power down, wanted to wheely over any time you lightly touched throttle.... Now I see with some of the sloppy joppy MT tires guys are needing to nearly lock the center diff out to prevent the front from balooning, but I am not seeing any of that with the stock tires, ...IMO a truggy like this tracks straighter and is faster accelerating with a slight bit of FWD pull thru the center diff....
 
I guess a few other variables come into play but what you are saying makes perfect sense . The tires and shock spring setting etc. What type of surface you run on. On or off road etc.....On the road, 50,000 is working decent for me running the stock tires and stock shocks. I don't like when these rigs are popping wheel stands from just breathing on the trigger but others love that. Seems that we are all on or own to find the perfect setup for the Kraton's. Posting different setups does help to get an idea of what to expect. Include some info on the power system, tires and surface may be key to helping others tune better.
 
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