Kraton Kraton diff stripping problem

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Solution
Shims on ring gear side.. pushing the ring gear towards the pinion..

13 x 16 x.2 or .1 or both.. nobody can 100% tell you how many, or what thickness shims your assembly needs.. it's up to you to determine what is "good"... But I have seen people throw two .2 shims in and swear by it...

You should also inspect tooth contact patch on the gears after the carrier shimming.. sometimes you need to shim behind the pinion to increase tooth contact for durability reasons..

If in fact you need to shim the pinion the ring gear shim stack is no longer usable in most if not all cases, and you must start over on the ring gear carrier stack..

If your unsure how to go about shimming hit YouTube And watch some videos..

Keep in mind bearing...
Are you shimming the assemblies? Or just slapping them in?.. also are you preloading the input cup before tightening the grub screw?
 
My Kraton rear diff is stripping the pinion super easily and won’t stoo changed all the gears changed the diff housing everything are there spacers or something I’m missing?
Are you sure you have the right matching ring and pinion? How many shims are you using and which side of the diff?
 
So there you go.. time for a shimming session.. and make sure you preload the input cup on the pinion or it's all for nothing..
Also if your changing just the pinion and not both your asking for instant failure
 
Shims on ring gear side.. pushing the ring gear towards the pinion..

13 x 16 x.2 or .1 or both.. nobody can 100% tell you how many, or what thickness shims your assembly needs.. it's up to you to determine what is "good"... But I have seen people throw two .2 shims in and swear by it...

You should also inspect tooth contact patch on the gears after the carrier shimming.. sometimes you need to shim behind the pinion to increase tooth contact for durability reasons..

If in fact you need to shim the pinion the ring gear shim stack is no longer usable in most if not all cases, and you must start over on the ring gear carrier stack..

If your unsure how to go about shimming hit YouTube And watch some videos..

Keep in mind bearing yield happens almost instantly, within a few packs on the pinion bearings.. so the closer you can get to 0 lash the better, as lash will slowly introduce itself into the assembly via pinion bearing yield..

You will have to measure the large inner pinion bearing for shim diameter unless someone can chime in that knows that shim size.. I forget the size and can't get to my stuff to check for a while longer...

Hope this helps..
 
Solution
Do you think I would be good with 4 13 x 16 x.1 shims per diff

You may very well could be.. I would start at 2 .1 shims.. check the lash.. keep adding until you just get as close to 0 as you can.. the less shims in the stack the easier to install back into the housing.. but if all you have is .1 shims and some patients it will work fine
 
It depends. My noto out of the box took more than my 3 month old k6s. It's just a "feel" thing.
 
Do you think I would be good with 4 13 x 16 x.1 shims per diff
Every setup is diff-erent and will need shimmed individually. I have diffs where the mesh is too tight and I had to shim the opposite side. You just have to put the diff in, put the cover in place, then test the mesh. If it’s loose add a shim to the ring side. If it’s binding, add one to the opposite side.
 
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