Kraton Kraton EXB bolt snapped in tower brace

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Soilhalo77

Soilhalo77

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Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton EXB
I just went out to local BMX track and landed badly on my wing
Luckily I just installed the M2C racing tower supports but now I’ve sheered off the bolt to the wing mounting it to the tower so I’ve got half a bolt stuck in the tower and rear diff but separated at very back.
Anyone else done this? I’m guessing someone must have, so my question is how to get the bolt out ? I’m thinking if I can get it out to replace it with a thicker longer bolt that would go all the way through with a nut on the end.
Can anyone offer a suggestion please on how to remove it?
Thanks
 
Soilhalo77 said:
I just went out to local BMX track and landed badly on my wing
Luckily I just installed the M2C racing tower supports but now I’ve sheered off the bolt to the wing mounting it to the tower so I’ve got half a bolt stuck in the tower and rear diff but separated at very back.
Anyone else done this? I’m guessing someone must have, so my question is how to get the bolt out ? I’m thinking if I can get it out to replace it with a thicker longer bolt that would go all the way through with a nut on the end.
Can anyone offer a suggestion please on how to remove it?
Thanks
Click to expand...
If you take the tower off, there should be enough bolt sticking out that you could get some vice grips on it and twist it out. I've never tried a larger bolt because it would likely weaken the plastic where it screws in. It's a crappy job to do, but there aren't that many better solutions.
 
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Sorry don’t know what I did there 🤣🤣
 
Just remove the two lower tower screws and mover the tower up and out of the way. Then you should be able to get some vise grips on whats left of that bolt and unscrew it from the diff housing.
 
Like everyone else is saying, take the tower off and you'll have enough of the broken bolt to use a vice grip to back it out.

This question gets asked every single week it seems.
 
jkflow said:
Worst case remove the tower if you can't grip it with pliers.
Don't be tempted to drill or you will mess up your tower.
Click to expand...
I’m new to Arrma (I’ve not had it fully to bits yet)so for some reason I had it in my head the tower would be threaded, which would make sense in a strength way as it would keep the Tower secured even more if the bolt was to sheer at the other side
I was thinking that because of something @Rich Duperbash said in one of his videos about the chassis braces and how he had put a longer bolt through with a nut on and I know the chassis brace is threaded, so as long as it’s not then replacing it by removing the tower is easy
I just thought the tower may be the same and that would cause a problem
I’ve always added strength to wing mounts in the past though as I’d rather snap them than a more major part by using a longer bolt with a nut on the end and I haven’t broken a diff housing since when mixed with the below ⬇️
That’s why with my other cars I would make my own shock towers from Different types of Carbon with some Glass for a little flex 4mm wide that I could hold the weight of the front of my Renault Clio but If you imagine that was a rectangular board I made 18’ x 10’ and if you reduce the size down to that of a shock tower the strength increases exponentially.
 
Soilhalo77 said:
I’m new to Arrma (I’ve not had it fully to bits yet)so for some reason I had it in my head the tower would be threaded, which would make sense in a strength way as it would keep the Tower secured even more if the bolt was to sheer at the other side
I was thinking that because of something @Rich Duperbash said in one of his videos about the chassis braces and how he had put a longer bolt through with a nut on and I know the chassis brace is threaded, so as long as it’s not then replacing it by removing the tower is easy
I just thought the tower may be the same and that would cause a problem
I’ve always added strength to wing mounts in the past though as I’d rather snap them than a more major part by using a longer bolt with a nut on the end and I haven’t broken a diff housing since when mixed with the below ⬇️
That’s why with my other cars I would make my own shock towers from Different types of Carbon with some Glass for a little flex 4mm wide that I could hold the weight of the front of my Renault Clio but If you imagine that was a rectangular board I made 18’ x 10’ and if you reduce the size down to that of a shock tower the strength increases exponentially.
Click to expand...
I've been using the longer bolt technique since 2019 on my Outcast. All this does is secure the bolt from tearing out of the plastic hole in the gear box. This isn't always a good thing. If you land hard on the wing, or worse, upside down, that bolt is sure to shear instead of tearing out. Today I had this happen on my EXB, so because I don't want to replace the dif case, I'll be using the M3 nut on the inside in the short term. Oh, and I'll be using a new set of my RPM wing mounts as the stockers disintegrated.
 
Notorious J said:
I've been using the longer bolt technique since 2019 on my Outcast. All this does is secure the bolt from tearing out of the plastic hole in the gear box. This isn't always a good thing. If you land hard on the wing, or worse, upside down, that bolt is sure to shear instead of tearing out. Today I had this happen on my EXB, so because I don't want to replace the dif case, I'll be using the M3 nut on the inside in the short term. Oh, and I'll be using a new set of my RPM wing mounts as the stockers disintegrated.
Click to expand...
Have you ever drilled the plastic a bit bigger to an M4 with a nut? Or is that gonna weaken the housing too much?
I haven’t had a close look at width of plastic around the bolt yet so I don’t know what there is to play with. Only thing I’ve done so far is strip the diffs and shim them and change the fluid to 20R 250ishM 50F
 

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