Kraton Kraton EXB chassis brace

Soilhalo77

Premium Member!
Premium Member
Messages
127
Reaction score
63
Location
Beadnell Northumberland Uk
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton EXB
I keep sheering the bolt off from my rear brace
Any advice on how to stop this from happening. Like what are people using to stop this?
Kinda ruins your day if it happens at the beginning of days running
 

jondilly1974

Speed running apprentice, motor Slayer 🤘
Lifetime Premium!
Premium Member
Excellence Award
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
25,848
Reaction score
37,146
Location
Toledo, OH
Arrma RC's
  1. Granite
  2. Infraction
  3. Kraton 6s
  4. Kraton EXB
  5. Senton 3s
  6. Typhon 6s
  7. Typhon 3s
thats ok but the kraton chassis is not keyed
The rear brace on the V5 is keyed

1621839948175.jpeg
 

BashingBrian

Get Schwifty #ArrmaAddict
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
4,833
Reaction score
10,067
Location
UK..
Arrma RC's
  1. Infraction
  2. Mojave EXB
  3. Outcast 8s
  4. Outcast 6s
  5. Talion
  6. Typhon 6s
Or just drill out the threads and use a bigger bolt and nylock nut to hold it in place. If you shear the bolt it just falls out and you can replace it easily.

This is the best advise..⬆️

This is what I do with all mine, including 7075 M2C ones..!! I'm only using 10.9 bolts with nuts and I've never had an issue 🤔
 

Paul777

Well-Known Member
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
210
Reaction score
240
Location
Woking, UK
Arrma RC's
  1. BigRock 4x4
  2. Kraton EXB
  3. Notorious
  4. Senton 3s
Looks like the key hole is a recent update to the Kraton EXB chassis. From what I have around here the EXB chassis I got in January isn't keyed, the latest one (where they also dropped the pinion and put the daft servo horn in) is keyed. Although they haven't yet updated the brace to use the key hole - maybe that's just stock passing through. There is also an extra screw hold to the rear of the key hole, so maybe an updated brace with much longer footprint to take 2 screws and square key is on the way.
 
Messages
1,641
Reaction score
1,771
Location
Mesa, AZ
Arrma RC's
  1. Infraction
  2. Kraton 6s
Looks like the key hole is a recent update to the Kraton EXB chassis. From what I have around here the EXB chassis I got in January isn't keyed, the latest one (where they also dropped the pinion and put the daft servo horn in) is keyed. Although they haven't yet updated the brace to use the key hole - maybe that's just stock passing through. There is also an extra screw hold to the rear of the key hole, so maybe an updated brace with much longer footprint to take 2 screws and square key is on the way.

The V5 I got in March has the extra keyhole and 2 screw holes aswell.
 

Soilhalo77

Premium Member!
Premium Member
Messages
127
Reaction score
63
Location
Beadnell Northumberland Uk
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton EXB
This is what I do with all mine, including 7075 M2C ones..!! I'm only using 10.9 bolts with nuts and I've never had an issue 🤔
That’s what I was thinking of doing to as drilling it rather than tapping would allow (under stress) some tiny amount of movement not being fixed by a thread so u could potentially get a better result than if you put a new thread in
 

Soilhalo77

Premium Member!
Premium Member
Messages
127
Reaction score
63
Location
Beadnell Northumberland Uk
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton EXB
This is what I do with all mine, including 7075 M2C ones..!! I'm only using 10.9 bolts with nuts and I've never had an issue 🤔
What are 10.9 bolts? Is that a US measurement?
I have no clue what that is in the Uk or is that the kind of steel the bolt is made from?
Or just drill out the threads and use a bigger bolt and nylock nut to hold it in place. If you shear the bolt it just falls out and you can replace it easily.
When you drilled out the brace did u cut a notch into it so the nut doesn’t catch the drive cup?
I ordered some M5 bolts but they sent M4 so I thought for time being I’d just use the smaller ones again but with a nylon nut on.
im finding it almost impossible to get the nut on the bolt without it cross threading
I did realise though u can use a long bolt and it won’t catch anything but the drive cup is super close to the nut
I don’t want to trim the brace if I don’t need to but I’m worried that if I don’t (as it’s sitting very close to the cup ) if it moves it’ll catch it and destroy it
And no I’ve no square bit cut out of my chassis
Any advice please dude?
 
Last edited:

hobo

Well-Known Member
Messages
842
Reaction score
584
Arrma RC's
you want 12.9 grade steel if you can its what comes on arrma 6s models
 

BashingBrian

Get Schwifty #ArrmaAddict
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
4,833
Reaction score
10,067
Location
UK..
Arrma RC's
  1. Infraction
  2. Mojave EXB
  3. Outcast 8s
  4. Outcast 6s
  5. Talion
  6. Typhon 6s
you want 12.9 grade steel if you can its what comes on arrma 6s models
In my opinion there is no need for 12.9 on what is basically a toy car 😉 most of my rigs end up with 10.9 after rebuilds because the Arrma bolts are just too expensive for what you get..
Without wanting to jinx myself, I can't remember the last time I broke a bolt..!! 🤪 I have bent quite a few though..!!
 

hobo

Well-Known Member
Messages
842
Reaction score
584
Arrma RC's
In my opinion there is no need for 12.9 on what is basically a toy car 😉 most of my rigs end up with 10.9 after rebuilds because the Arrma bolts are just too expensive for what you get..
Without wanting to jinx myself, I can't remember the last time I broke a bolt..!! 🤪 I have bent quite a few though..!!
no what you mean its the rear chassis brace screw that goes in from under chassis that breaks all time on me if its not 12.9 grade
 

Soilhalo77

Premium Member!
Premium Member
Messages
127
Reaction score
63
Location
Beadnell Northumberland Uk
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton EXB
Well I stuck a 4mm bolt with a nut but it’s soooooo close to the center cup if it loosened it’ll chew that cup to bits
That’s why I was asking if anyone has notched the chassis brace so there’s a flat spot so you can drop it down a little way from the cup.
I can’t seem to find decent bolts either so I think I’m going to order some M5 HPI ones as there way cheaper than the Arrma ones. I’ve actually replaced a lot of my bolts with HPI as there cheaper and seem stronger
 

Synchronicity

No more nitro
Premium Member
Build Thread Contributor
Messages
788
Reaction score
1,165
Location
Canada
Arrma RC's
  1. Kraton 6s
  2. Vorteks
It's a bad design and they need to revise it to include a tab that fits into the hole in the chassis behind it, switch to a double screw or upscale to an M5 screw. The stresses in this area are too high for a single M4 screw, 12.9 grade or otherwise.
 
Top