Kraton Kraton exb cross threaded pillow ball trick question

[milehighspeed]

Odd question here, but over the holidays i want to run the car and getting new parts may take a while, but front pillow ball nut is cross threaded (came that way thanks to awful arrma factory build, car is new so I’m just noting this after a handful of runs) so I’m wondering what is the harm of running this cross threaded for a while? You can screw it in, tighten it down, then back off just like normal and things seem to function. In fact, I’m actuallly curious why this may even need replacing, thus the question, because as of now the fully screwed in nut even though cross threaded seems to work. What would get damaged and what’s the possible harm? sounds odd but all ur trying to do is get pressure on the plastic cup right…does it matter if that comes from a cross threaded nut?

and just a moment of venting….the exb is the worst factory build of any car ive ever had in the hobby. I think a blindfolded, half wit with 10 beers in him and working the Friday afternoon shift did this car because it has been a freakin nightmare. maybe COVID has thinned the help but its ridiculous how bad this was. I wont list every issue as it would take 10 minutes but I’m very disappointed as this thing is a money pit and even for a guy who likes wrenching its the wrong kind of wrenching. Sorry for the rant but just had to get it out.

 

[KnowAir]

I've cross threaded them myself before. I find them to be a PIA? It's easy to do .
FWIW, I've run them that way, actually running a TC kronos xtr with one crossed up now
IMO, the damage is done. Worst that could happen is the bushing or ball wears unevenly? NBD?
Not sure what's up with your EXB, but I've found zero issues with either of mine.

 

[calebgilmore]

Did it a lot starting out and have had zero issues long as you don't have to keep removing it for anything. I did buy the m2c tool for putting them in and i do feel like i can get them in and out a lot better with it since i can feel it start. I don't normally pull them now that i realized the 2.5mm driver will fit through the hole in them to get the pillow ball out of the arm.
As far as a bad build i tend to buy parts from parts breakers and aftermarket companies and build from the chassis up anymore. That way i know how it went together the first time and i spend less on parts i'm taking off anyways.

 

[morrjr71]

and just a moment of venting….the exb is the worst factory build of any car ive ever had in the hobby. I think a blindfolded, half wit with 10 beers in him and working the Friday afternoon shift did this car because it has been a freakin nightmare. maybe COVID has thinned the help but its ridiculous how bad this was. I wont list every issue as it would take 10 minutes but I’m very disappointed as this thing is a money pit and even for a guy who likes wrenching its the wrong kind of wrenching. Sorry for the rant but just had to get it out.

I replaced the stock pillow ball nuts with Hot Racing ones with Delrin inserts: fortunately, the OEM nuts weren't cross threaded. They were, however, extremely loose, and the steering blocks could be moved in and out close to an eighth of an inch on both the top and bottom pillow balls.

Whoever built up the diffs on my Kraton 6s V5 must have been having a bad day: the fluid in the front and center diffs was half full, and the rear diff fluid barely covered the lower half of the spider gears. I've heard of the diffs being a bit low from the factory, but having the rear diff this low was crazy.

 

[milehighspeed]

I've cross threaded them myself before. I find them to be a PIA? It's easy to do .
FWIW, I've run them that way, actually running a TC kronos xtr with one crossed up now
IMO, the damage is done. Worst that could happen is the bushing or ball wears unevenly? NBD?
Not sure what's up with your EXB, but I've found zero issues with either of mine.

I’m tracking along that line as well. Damage is done already so why not run it like this until it cant. JRc has some replacements for reasonable but i may upgrade as this seems to be an issue. Ill try and remember this post and update how long things last running it with this cross threaded nut for future information.

As for the build, i was careful not to flame arrma overall as bad builds happen but makes them no less frustrating when you get one. I‘ve had success with Arrma vehicles overall, so I’ll just have to eat this one. The real killer was the damn gallon of red locktite used on the wheel hex pin grub screws. Something that doesn’t even need any, and yet they spot welded the pin and the grub screw in there to where i snapped two allen wrenches and completely stripped two grub screws using quality drives…even after spot heating them to break down the Loctite. I had to 3 stage drill out the grub screws to slowly disintegrate them but then still had to very carefully peen and hammer the pins free without Damaging the drive shaft. That kind of thing took me hours for something that should be 15 seconds to remove a screw. Drives you nuts.