Kraton Kraton EXB diff issues. not impressed so far!!

[L3phturn]

Putting them in wrong is even less lsd action. Probably not a bad Idea to run in the rear.

If you end up with sharp edge against sharp edge, how will that result in less LSD action?

 

[SrC]

Putting them in wrong is even less lsd action. Probably not a bad Idea to run in the rear.

^^^

As long as you are conscious of the fact that they are chamfered and placed intentionally in this way.

If you end up with sharp edge against sharp edge, how will that result in less LSD action?

Diff oil "shearing" at the plates changes. Frictionally under load. The way I see it.

 

[3d-rc.myshopify.com]

^^^

As long as you are conscious of the fact that they are chamfered and placed intentionally in this way.

Diff oil "shearing" at the plates changes. Frictionally under load. The way I see it.

That's exactly it. It is a shearing action you are essentially cutting the fluid. If you place them in a methodical order there are more then just the 2 settings arrma states

If you end up with sharp edge against sharp edge, how will that result in less LSD action?

Wrong wasn't meaning backwards. Wrong was used as a term for any combination. I was referring to it in a way to run the lsd plates in a way that could be used for the rear

 

[DeeBee71]

found out after reassembly last night the front diff housing was cracked.

I had a couple new diff cases (stock) so I went to install one on the front today.
Man these thigs are finished very poorly. even compared to the stock one. had to file it down in a few places to get the cover to fit. WOW crap !

I'm thinking when I can some aluminum housings and covers are in the near future.

 

[jkflow]

Odd, I never had any issues with stock housings. There is a tight fit for a reason, hope you didn't destroy it by filing, especially in the cover area.
Pain to install but that gives you the tight fit that prevents the diff from moving. Always do a dry fit with the cover before you install. Sometimes things get tweaked out of shape and that leads to incorrect adjustments.

 

[sroy]

I agree cept kevin being an idiot lol. He's just not a born mechanical engineer like some of us lol. He wings a lot of stuff. Dude can fly a chopper pretty well.

I don’t like how so many of the suspension mounts are bolted to the plastic diff housings. My front Diff housing broke in 3 places. Replaced with a rpm front bumper but still needed the arrma bumper modified to keep the front lower control arm pins in place. Rpm bumper bent on impact, oem Arrma bumper bent back and cracked diff housing. Sorry. Bad design. None of the bumpers should be integrated into the diff housings. That’s just asking for it

 

[DeeBee71]

Odd, I never had any issues with stock housings. There is a tight fit for a reason, hope you didn't destroy it by filing, especially in the cover area.
Pain to install but that gives you the tight fit that prevents the diff from moving. Always do a dry fit with the cover before you install. Sometimes things get tweaked out of shape and that leads to incorrect adjustments.

I'm sorry I wrote getting the cover to fit, that's not what I meant.
What I meant to say is to get the front aluminum tower to fit around the diff case. like the hole in the upper right side was not wanting to line up...I kind of wish I had taken a pic of it. Oh well...

 

[SrC]

I don’t like how so many of the suspension mounts are bolted to the plastic diff housings. My front Diff housing broke in 3 places. Replaced with a rpm front bumper but still needed the arrma bumper modified to keep the front lower control arm pins in place. Rpm bumper bent on impact, oem Arrma bumper bent back and cracked diff housing. Sorry. Bad design. None of the bumpers should be integrated into the diff housings. That’s just asking for it

Most of the bumpers are this way for many similar rigs and brands. Hinge pins/arms are all at the bulkhead. My MT410 the same. If its very cold out they brick easily. . I only did one bulkhead in 4 years that I can remember. Busted everything near it though. User error. Got to watch nose darts.

 

[Soilhalo77]

Give a try and let us know how it goes, if you haven't already.
Directional in what way???? Can you be more specific?
The LSD plates have "Chamfered" edges, and Arrma clearly states how they are placed. Did you see the ArrmaRC EXB diff video yet? Do it any other way and you are on your own. Setting up LSD stage 1 or 2 is also clear in the video.

It says that in the video but it mentions nothing about it in the manual and if it was super important you'd think they would say so in the manual itself as a lot aren't going to look at a video when its there in manual

 

[nomis38]

Ive put them in the wrong way. Its not a big deal. I did notice it after a while and changed it to how its supposed to be. Basically it made one side not grab sometimes. So one side would act a bit like an open diff and one side wouldnt.

Didnt hurt a thing. Fyi

 

[L3phturn]

It says that in the video but it mentions nothing about it in the manual and if it was super important you'd think they would say so in the manual itself as a lot aren't going to look at a video when its there in manual

Well this is the company that omitted the SLT3 end point setting from the manual in all of the V3 trucks, so it should be in there but they missed it.

Glad to hear it hasn’t blown up diffs so far, even if it may lead to inconsistent performance.

 

[Jluther@becoinc]

Kevin talbot is an idiot lmao so take whatever he does with a grain of salt. And metal bulkheads are ten times better then stock and save ring gears. The threads never strip wich is a common issue with the plastic ones. I never stated you needed them but if you want bullet proof rigs you don't have to fiddle with get metal bulkheads they are worth the money. You might not think so but lots of others do.

I totally agree! I was buying ring and input gears every week. Yes they were shimmed right. $40 a pop. Installed Hot Racing bulkheads $200 once no more buying ring and input gears. The aluminum parts have paid for themselves 10 times and continue to keep me running my RC and not my 1/1 back and forth to get gears. The bulkheads are what holds the whole truck together.
Screws on bottom don’t strip out and shock towers are stronger. Especially if you put on M2c towers. I honestly feel that these upgrades pay for themselves. I think a lot of guys on here would say the same.

 

[SrC]

It says that in the video but it mentions nothing about it in the manual and if it was super important you'd think they would say so in the manual itself as a lot aren't going to look at a video when its there in manual

Some of us are in the know. Some not. That's why AF is here.
These are RTR based rigs and detailed manuals are just Not included. These are not kits. Which cost way more. More to make detailed build instructions for the end builder. JD clarified that many times before.

 

[nomis38]

I totally agree! I was buying ring and input gears every week. Yes they were shimmed right. $40 a pop. Installed Hot Racing bulkheads $200 once no more buying ring and input gears. The aluminum parts have paid for themselves 10 times and continue to keep me running my RC and not my 1/1 back and forth to get gears. The bulkheads are what holds the whole truck together.
Screws on bottom don’t strip out and shock towers are stronger. Especially if you put on M2c towers. I honestly feel that these upgrades pay for themselves. I think a lot of guys on here would say the same.

Ikr I bought a ton of gears to. Its nice I stated the gearbox cover is enough to stop tearing up ring/pinion's. If there is a cheaper option to 100% stop diff breakage I love sharing, you can always have the choice to go the extra mile and get the whole case.

 

[Soilhalo77]

Give a try and let us know how it goes, if you haven't already.
Directional in what way???? Can you be more specific?
The LSD plates have "Chamfered" edges, and Arrma clearly states how they are placed. Did you see the ArrmaRC EXB diff video yet? Do it any other way and you are on your own. Setting up LSD stage 1 or 2 is also clear in the video.

Directional as in "chamfered edge and not" this is something I checked for when I first took my diffs apart and I couldn't feel any difference on the edges.
When put in the M2C outdrives and I hadn't seen the video at this point, I hadn't long put in my diff fluid but you could see the faces that had been touching across the from and rear diffs so I just put them back together that way. Its only since seeing this thread that's now got be doubting myself

 

[nomis38]

Correct one side feels sharper than the other, I have installed them wrong, it will just do weird diff action but it wont hurt it.

 

[Soilhalo77]

Directional as in "chamfered edge and not" this is something I checked for when I first took my diffs apart and I couldn't feel any difference on the edges.
When put in the M2C outdrives and I hadn't seen the video at this point, I hadn't long put in my diff fluid but you could see the faces that had been touching across the from and rear diffs so I just put them back together that way. Its only since seeing this thread that's now got be doubting myself

Correct one side feels sharper than the other, I have installed them wrong, it will just do weird diff action but it wont hurt it.

Well I need to do some basic repairs from today’s session anyway tomorrow so might as well pull diffs and take a look. At least it’s not like stripping an HPI Vorza diff down, total pain of a job but easy as pie with the easy access Arrma rigs so far.

 

[L3phturn]

Well I need to do some basic repairs from today’s session anyway tomorrow so might as well pull diffs and take a look. At least it’s not like stripping an HPI Vorza diff down, total pain of a job but easy as pie with the easy access Arrma rigs so far.

I am putting a HR diff cover only on the rear of my Notorious tonight. It’s running fine with 2 Tenno shims on the out dive bearing and one of the pins is a piece of 2mm Allen key I cut off with a dremel back in December because I couldn’t get parts fast enough.

 

[Kingleo619]

I run hot racing aluminum diffs in my 6s v3 along with putting shims everywhere lol i haven't had a problem in 2 yrs. You can run plastic if your rig is a trophy truck/ speed runs

 

[SrC]

Directional as in "chamfered edge and not" this is something I checked for when I first took my diffs apart and I couldn't feel any difference on the edges.
When put in the M2C outdrives and I hadn't seen the video at this point, I hadn't long put in my diff fluid but you could see the faces that had been touching across the from and rear diffs so I just put them back together that way. Its only since seeing this thread that's now got be doubting myself

I got ya.
Those plates seem fragile/soft and wear differently if orientation of chamfered edges are not considered.
ArrmaRC cleared that up in their EXB diff Video. JD stated that it was a factory QC issue. And no reps were on site to maintain the QC. Not any excuse, just the reality. The EXB Mojo had significantly less diff issues by comparison FWIW. QC was more in check by the time the EXB Mojo was in production.