Kraton Kraton EXB diff side cups issue

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smilozar

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Hi guys

I have a very frustrating issue with the right front diff side cup on my Kraton EXB 6s. It keeps popping out the axle or breaking. Even the smallest jumps causes this. I just put a new cup in this morning, which of course meant the diff had to come out, took it to the park and did 3 small jumps landing on the grass on all 4 wheels and it broke the cup again. Surely this can’t be normal. What should I change yk fix this issue please?

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Take the washers off the arm ends by the pillow balls and screw them in further. I had the same issue and had to do what I said above as even with a small jump I'd loose the same side driveshaft every damn time. If that doesn't push it in far enough you'll need to sand down the end of the arm where the pillow balls screws in again so it brings the hub closer in twords the diff and brings that driveshaft in so it won't pop out.
 
Take the washers off the arm ends by the pillow balls and screw them in further. I had the same issue and had to do what I said above as even with a small jump I'd loose the same side driveshaft every damn time. If that doesn't push it in far enough you'll need to sand down the end of the arm where the pillow balls screws in again so it brings the hub closer in twords the diff and brings that driveshaft in so it won't pop out.
Awesome thank you for the help. I’ll give it a try and report back. Going out for some bashing tomorrow with a mate who owns a xmaxx and was dreading going and not being able to do any jumps. He would definitely rub that in my face as he is already a huge xmaxx fan boy 😂
 
No problem man glad to help out! Like I said that should do the trick as it will allow the pillow balls to bring the hub closer to the diff and push the driveshaft further into the cup so they don't keep popping out or getting stuck halfway out of the cup causing it to break. I didn't have to sand down the end of the arm just taking the washers out was enough and I send my Kraton like 30+ ft high so hopefully you shouldn't either but if it still happens you will have to trim them just a bit again to bring the driveshaft further in👍
 
Sorry just a point of clarification please. Are you referring to the rubber washers that sit behind the two red screws? Or are you referring to the steel washer on the top support arm where the pillow ball screws in?

many thanks again
 
Sorry just a point of clarification please. Are you referring to the rubber washers that sit behind the two red screws? Or are you referring to the steel washer on the top support arm where the pillow ball screws in?

many thanks again
The metal washers that sit against the pillow balls screws
 
I had the same problem for a while. In my case my travel exceeded what my drive cups could accommodate. This was mostly with M2C drive cups. Setting my droop properly and using the travel reducers that come with the plastic ball end kit cured the problem forever. To see if this is your problem set your drive cup so the slot sits horizontally then compress your suspension all the way. If your driveshaft touches the top of your drive cup before you run out of travel you need to reduce your travel to accommodate your drive cups.
 
I put the small rear plastic spacer from the rear chassis brace over the shock shaft and put a small piece of fuel tube on afterwards works great no problems since. the fuel tube alone didn't work it was too soft and would just squash
 
Remove the red spacer, I had similar issues and removing the spacer solved all those issues. Ruined a few stock cvds and outdrive cups. If you have m2c they will hold up a little longer then shear off instead of deforming.
 
Its a veey odd issue. I don't exactly know what causes it. I did heard m2c say they broke a few of theirs during testing if the droop screws were installed and limiting the downtravel and over extension of the arm.
Remove the red spacer, I had similar issues and removing the spacer solved all those issues. Ruined a few stock cvds and outdrive cups. If you have m2c they will hold up a little longer then shear off instead of deforming.
I have put new washers back on my notorious. I went with the bring the washers down and grind the plastic also. Dumb move.. now when i full turn right or left it makes like a scratching noise vs squeaks befoe
 
Proper droop is very important. I set mine up so I have to compress the shock about 5mm before I can get it onto the stand-off as I would rather sacrifice a little suspension travel over blowing out shock pistons and drive cups. The advantage of removing the upper and lower spacer is you engage the cvd a little more into the cup so it doesn’t start tearing up the end of the cup.
 
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