Kraton Kraton EXB ESC calibration help

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tanasit

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RE: The ESC is the Torox 185 (Hobby Wing rebrand).
I had calibrated several similar ESC before with the steps below:

Turn on transmitter.

Hold Set button on ESC and turn on, release Set when it starts chirping/red light flashing.

Make sure transmitter is in neutral. Press Set once. One beep/green flash.

Depress throttle on transmitter fully, hold. Then press Set button. Two beeps/2 green flashes.

Reverse/brake on transmitter fully, hold. Press Set button. 3 beeps/3 green flashes.

Turn off ESC. You are ready.


But this time I only get neutral confirmation with 1 green flash. The next 2 steps for full forward and full reverse had no green flash no matter how long I hold the set button.

Note also that, even with the first neutral setup I had to hold the set button for 5-8 seconds before the 1 green flash!
I did make sure that the throttle channel is all set properly (travel at +-100, trim at 0, etc.).
After failing I tried to increase the throttle travel to +-105, +-110, +-125 but none worked.
I also calibrated the TX (steering and throttle) which is the Spektrum DX5C with SR6100AR RX.
BTW, the steering works fine.
I also noticed that while setting up, if I pulled full forward or reverse throttle, the RX orange led will dim to almost nothing.

Moreover at one point, the throttle started working BUT no reverse even the programming box confirmed that the ESC was set with Forward/Reverse/Brake.

Later, I tried the DX3 with the same no go result.

Note: initially I used the DX3 and it wokred fine, then I want to use the DX5C and rebind it with 2 different SR6100AT with same result as above.

What did I do wrong or the ESC is defective?

Thanks
 
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Since you’re using an AVC receiver, you need to give it time to calibrate before you can do the ESC calibration. Start the cal process on the ESC and just wait like 7-10 seconds and let it chirp away - your receiver should then be ready to accept throttle commands from the transmitter and calibrate like normal.

See if that works for you.
 
SR6100AT are complicated to bind, are you sure that you completed the full bind?
Must be 100% working before you touch the ESC setup.
Also make sure that AVC is set to 100%

All of below has to be done before you power on and go back into the ESC /throttle range calibration.

---
BIND AND CALIBRATION PROCESS
Upon initial setup after the first bind, the model must be configured for servo
direction, trim and travel. Then the receiver must be rebound and calibrated to
those settings for proper operation. Center the steering trim and throttle trim on
the transmitter before beginning.
1. Press and hold the bind button on the receiver.
2. Power on the receiver. The orange LED flashes, indicating the receiver is in
bind mode. Release the bind button after the orange LED illuminates.
3. Put your transmitter in bind mode.
4. The bind process is complete when the orange LED on the receiver remains lit. At this
stage the receiver is connected but must complete calibration before it will operate.
5. Pull the transmitter trigger to full throttle, pause, then return the trigger to center.
6. Push the transmitter trigger to full brake, pause, then return the trigger to center.
7. Turn the transmitter steering wheel to full right, pause, then return the
wheel to center.
8. Turn the transmitter steering wheel to full left, pause, then return the steering wheel
to center. The orange LED flashes to confirm the settings have been accepted.
9. Turn off the vehicle to complete the binding and calibration process.
 
SR6100AT are complicated to bind, are you sure that you completed the full bind?
Must be 100% working before you touch the ESC setup.
Also make sure that AVC is set to 100%

All of below has to be done before you power on and go back into the ESC /throttle range calibration.

---
BIND AND CALIBRATION PROCESS
Upon initial setup after the first bind, the model must be configured for servo
direction, trim and travel. Then the receiver must be rebound and calibrated to
those settings for proper operation. Center the steering trim and throttle trim on
the transmitter before beginning.
1. Press and hold the bind button on the receiver.
2. Power on the receiver. The orange LED flashes, indicating the receiver is in
bind mode. Release the bind button after the orange LED illuminates.
3. Put your transmitter in bind mode.
4. The bind process is complete when the orange LED on the receiver remains lit. At this
stage the receiver is connected but must complete calibration before it will operate.
5. Pull the transmitter trigger to full throttle, pause, then return the trigger to center.
6. Push the transmitter trigger to full brake, pause, then return the trigger to center.
7. Turn the transmitter steering wheel to full right, pause, then return the
wheel to center.
8. Turn the transmitter steering wheel to full left, pause, then return the steering wheel
to center. The orange LED flashes to confirm the settings have been accepted.
9. Turn off the vehicle to complete the binding and calibration process.
That did it...(y)(y) (Cut and paste your prep steps onto my note);)

When I used the DX5C, I did calibrated the TX via the screen menu which asked you to turn the steering wheel and the trigger until you get all 6 "OK" (3 each for steering and throttle). But that didn't help. :mad:

In short, stupid me. :(

At first when ENGINEER (2nd post) suggested that the RX I use is the AVC, I then turned the AVC off from the TX and tried the calibration to no avail.

Thank you both for the suggestion.
 
No problem, we only know because we made the same silly mistakes. :ROFLMAO:
Talking about sillyness, see if you can beat me...

Guess how many times I went to the field only to find out that I forgot the transmitter??? :sneaky:
Hint: more than once. ;)
Hint of hint: more than twice. :cautious:
Hint of the 2 above hints: more than 3 times. :confused:

On the bad traffic day the round trip will be about 1 hour. :mad:
 
That I haven't done but congrats on the achievement! 😁
I pack my bag with tools, batteries and transmitter which keeps me on track. Everything else I've forgotten as well. camera, GPS, hat, sunglasses etc. I have a similar 1h punishment.
 
I have reasons though! The TX I kept forgetting is for my RC helicopters which I have to charge after every flying session.

I also leave a couple of my fav rc heli in my car with extra batteries and tools.
My original TX is the DX18G2, so I bought a fancy Spektrum iX20 which I had to learn the Android OS to use it, so I kept on using the old trusty DX18G2.

Then one day I decided to learn how to use the iX20 with color display and the touch screen that I never got used to.
Weeks later I got the hang of it, so I kept the old DX18G2 in the car in case I forgot the iX20 so I can just rebind and fly without driving back home.
And guess what, since then I haven't yet forgotten the iX20 once.:LOL:

As for the rc car, I started off with the RTR Arrma Kraton8S that came with the DX3. Then my fleet grew to another Arrma Talion EXB, Team Corally Sketer, Kronos XTR 2022, Traxxas E-Revo VXL-2.0 and the HPI Savage XL Flux GTXL-1
which is on the way. The Traxxas and the TC came with their own TX, so I got the DX5C for the TC but for the E-Revo, I have yet to drive and want to use the "self-right" feature which I don't think the DX5C can do that.
Without going with the DX5C, I may have got the wrong TX to the fields for sure even I put the name on the battery door with the gaffer tape.:p

I ran the Talion on snow with stock tires which was uneventful, so I ordered a set of Proline paddle and put a pair on the rear which works great, so I kept them on for now even on grass. I am now experimenting with the ESC settings which is not default values except a few that I don't want to mess with. I also bought a ton of pinion to try but the weather is still around 35F, so the motor heat is no issue even the ones I added the motor fan that I unplug it for now.

I hate the cleanup part First, I hosted it off then I used the leave blower and sprayed the WD40 on the moving parts then blow dry again. Afterward, I sprayed the Tri-Flow dry lube. I have yet to mess with the diff grease/oil which I bought several weights.

Yesterday, I just installed the wheelie bar for my Kronos. I am not sure how the single wheel will perform. Yes I also have the factory installed single wheel on the Sketer but it just won't wheelie. :unsure:
 
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Back in the good ol' days, I drove my cars and boats with a stick transmitter. Really is no easier or different with the handhelds we have today.
Just food for thought. I have a DX8 as well, but only use it for my helis. Should take my own advice ;)
I su$k at heli flying though.
 
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